Slipping clutch

[MotorTony]

On the way home this morning the clutch began to slip (SM5). I carefully rode it to the dealer. They said they would start on it in the morning.

 

[canam9]

Sorry to hear. Keep us posted :chat: :ani29:

 

[clueless]

bummer how many miles on your RT?

 

[MotorTony]

have about 1450 miles....

 

[MotorTony]

I spoke to the tech last evening. He said that the clutch seemed ok so he checked for other faults. He said that the SM5 has a vacuum selenoid that engages the clutch in order to reduce wheel hop on deceleration. Apparently that selenoid went bad and began to activate causing the clutch to slip all of the time.

The selenoid is on order but I will not get my Spyder until the middle or end of next week.

 

[MotorTony]

Got it back yesterday. Runs excellent!

 

[scudrunner]

Well, at least you got it back fixed. Mine is still at the dealer and after 5 weeks, all I know is they hooked it up to BUDS.

 

[StriperKing]

I have this exact same problem. It has just started out of the blue. Does anyone know where this vacum line is for this solinoid. I would just bypass it. I can down shift on my own without help. :thumbup:

 

[SpyderBen]

Clutch sliping

I have 2000 miles on my 2010 RT. This week the clutch started slipping while on a 200 mile ride. I call two dealers about 45 miles away and they wanted the bike to keep for a few days.

I started reading the manual and it says to be sure and check the oil level. Sure enough it was at the bottom of the stick. I added oil and took a short ride, about 10 miles, and the problem seems to be resolved.

Note****Very important to check oil level before each outing. See page 122, under subject ENGINE OIL of manual, right hand column, 3rd NOTICE bullentin on the page.:chat:

 

[NancysToy]

Note****Very important to check oil level before each outing. See page 122, under subject ENGINE OIL of manual, right hand column, 3rd NOTICE bullentin on the page.:chat:

Bad time to check the oil level. The oil on the Spyder has to be checked when the machine is at full operating temperature. That does not mean just starting the engine to bring the water up to temp, but it needs the oil to be hot, too, which takes longer. I suggest checking the oil after each ride...or each week, after a ride.

 

[NancysToy]

BRP indicated in the service manual a cold oil level (about an inch down on the stick).

Given the layout of the Rotax it would seem that a hot oil check would be better; however it would make sense to be able to check the oil before you left on a trip.

:dontknow:

Not in any of my manuals! References or a pic of the page, please. The dipstick is not long enough to show a cold oil level...and least not in cold climates.

 

[NancysToy]

Can Am Spyder RT Operators Guide
Part #219 000 721

Page 125

Fourth Line Down that starts with "NOTE:"


And given the volume of oil and the coefficient of expansion it is possible to get the correct reading on the dip stick at any temperature down to -40 by calculating follows:

The Coefficient of Expansion (C of E) of a liquid is defined as the change in volume (Delta V) per limit volume (V)
per change in temperature (Delta T):
C of E= De1taV/V
Delta T
The petroleum industry uses 60º Fahrenheit as a standard to correct liquid hydrocarbon volumes. We refer to this
corrected volume as Net Volume.

This is an interesting note, but it doesn't seem to work, in reality. On both of our Spyders, when the oil level is at the upper mark, at full operating temperature as described on page 122, the oil will only be at the tip of the dipstick at best, and will often show on the stick at all, including when the oil is at a lower, but acceptable, level, between the marks. I admit that most of our mornings are below the magic 68° F temp specified by BRP.

I am well aware of the engineering calculation necessary to determine the volumes at different temperatures, but the bottom line remains this:

BRP recommends checking the oil at full operating temperature.

They also warn against overfilling the oil, in the very reference you name. For the average owner, the safest way is to do what BRP recommends, and always check the oil at full operating temperature. For those that wish to do it when cold, and have temperature controlled conditions, such as a heated/air conditioned garage, I suggest that they check hot, then check again at room temp, and mark the stick with a reference point. For those that cannot maintain even storage temperatures, checking cold will always carry a risk of making an error in ascertaining the correct level. This is an unacceptable risk, in my opinion, and the average owner should always check the oil with the engine hot, immediately after a ride.

 

[Gordy]

when my spyder went in to limp mode and the oil sender unit was replaced the tech checked the oil level and said that he had to add about a quart of oil, checked oil level when I got home and found it about an inch over full.When I change oil I only put in 4 quarts, with engine hot level is half way between full and add, I feel comfortable with this.Brp oil comes to us in usa quarts

 

[NancysToy]

.....my brain is tired and I am reminded why I didn't much like engineering.

:roflblack: I'll second that motion! There is a reason that I am retired. :roflblack:

To add to the confusion, I'll bring up another old topic. What is the reason the Spyder is so sensitive to oil level? Dry sump engines are not known for this trait. It also makes no sense why the oil level in the reservoir would directly affect the clutch, since the oil (in the engine proper) should remain constant...unless the oil was so low that the oil pump pushed air, or the opposite, where the scavenging pump left the oil in the sump. Of course I fail to understand the logic of a wet clutch on a dry sump engine, anyway, but that's a horse of a different color. What are your thoughts on this?

 

[draboo]

Shooting from the hip, ready, fire. aim ....
If the oil level is low (real low) oil temp might be real high.

High oil temp might make for the magic stuff in the magic oil that lubricates the wet clutch yet lets it grab to break down and forget that the clutch is meant to grab and .... well sheer speculation...
:dontknow:

So, I m taking this to mean that hot oil may cause the clutch slip?

I m curious to all this talk about low oil, because I ve ran our RT to "off the stick" level when checked while hot. Never had anything out of the ordinary happen. Just topped it off and that was it.

 

[boborgera]

I know this is probably not the case, Could someone have added NON motorcycle oil,
Even a little used to top off might cause slipping. Sometimes a dealer might say it was xyz that was causing the slipping
so as not to admit they used the wrong oil. :dontknow: