Show chrome trailer hitch

[Daniel Ward]

Hello to all,

I know I have seen this subject on this forum before , but I don't seem to be finding anything at this moment, so forgive me if this is old information. I just installed a Show Chrome hitch and wiring system on my 2014 RT-S. Had to convert over to 4 wires with a converter harness. Everything seems to be working well. I bought the "Lumina" small trailer. Seems to be a pretty nice little trailer for the money--lights are led and very bright. Now my problem---The hitch will not stay tight. I pulled the trailer about 250 miles and the set screw on the right side backed off and allowed the hitch to start rocking on the swing arm of the Spyder. This did not really surprise me. I had a little trouble getting the threads started on installation ( it is not cross-threaded and threads are good)but I did not lock-tight the set screw. (by the way--I took everyones advice and bought new set screws that were not pointed on the tips).
I inspected everything and re-installed both set screws with "blue lock-tight". I tightened them as tight as possible (without risking stripping the threads). This time I pulled the trailer 320 miles ---about 15 miles of which were pretty rough. When I pull the hitch up and down with my hands, I can feel a little free play---not anywhere as bad as the first time, but definitely there. In one month I am heading from Dayton, Ohio to the state of Idaho and back and I sure do not want to be fighting this problem the whole way.

Some thoughts on this: Seems to me that this might happen if the top of the swing arm was "convex", because it would allow the channel to start rocking back and forth. If it ever moves a thousandth of an inch, it will eventually get loose. What about putting two small shims at each end of the channel (on top of the swing arm, maybe even two thin washers). That would give it two points to pull down on? To clarify a little---the shims would be between the top horizontal part of channel and the swing arm. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you have, or if you can even point me in the right direction to get information.

PS --I just added the heavier sway bar---thanks for all your info----Regards----Dan

 

[UtahPete]

Hello to all,

I know I have seen this subject on this forum before , but I don't seem to be finding anything at this moment, so forgive me if this is old information. I just installed a Show Chrome hitch and wiring system on my 2014 RT-S. Had to convert over to 4 wires with a converter harness. Everything seems to be working well. I bought the "Lumina" small trailer. Seems to be a pretty nice little trailer for the money--lights are led and very bright. Now my problem---The hitch will not stay tight. I pulled the trailer about 250 miles and the set screw on the right side backed off and allowed the hitch to start rocking on the swing arm of the Spyder. This did not really surprise me. I had a little trouble getting the threads started on installation ( it is not cross-threaded and threads are good)but I did not lock-tight the set screw. (by the way--I took everyones advice and bought new set screws that were not pointed on the tips).
I inspected everything and re-installed both set screws with "blue lock-tight". I tightened them as tight as possible (without risking stripping the threads). This time I pulled the trailer 320 miles ---about 15 miles of which were pretty rough. When I pull the hitch up and down with my hands, I can feel a little free play---not anywhere as bad as the first time, but definitely there. In one month I am heading from Dayton, Ohio to the state of Idaho and back and I sure do not want to be fighting this problem the whole way.

Some thoughts on this: Seems to me that this might happen if the top of the swing arm was "convex", because it would allow the channel to start rocking back and forth. If it ever moves a thousandth of an inch, it will eventually get loose. What about putting two small shims at each end of the channel (on top of the swing arm, maybe even two thin washers). That would give it two points to pull down on? To clarify a little---the shims would be between the top horizontal part of channel and the swing arm. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you have, or if you can even point me in the right direction to get information.

PS --I just added the heavier sway bar---thanks for all your info----Regards----Dan

Pictures?

 

[Blue Star]

Hello to all,

I know I have seen this subject on this forum before , but I don't seem to be finding anything at this moment, so forgive me if this is old information. I just installed a Show Chrome hitch and wiring system on my 2014 RT-S. Had to convert over to 4 wires with a converter harness. Everything seems to be working well. I bought the "Lumina" small trailer. Seems to be a pretty nice little trailer for the money--lights are led and very bright. Now my problem---The hitch will not stay tight. I pulled the trailer about 250 miles and the set screw on the right side backed off and allowed the hitch to start rocking on the swing arm of the Spyder. This did not really surprise me. I had a little trouble getting the threads started on installation ( it is not cross-threaded and threads are good)but I did not lock-tight the set screw. (by the way--I took everyones advice and bought new set screws that were not pointed on the tips).
I inspected everything and re-installed both set screws with "blue lock-tight". I tightened them as tight as possible (without risking stripping the threads). This time I pulled the trailer 320 miles ---about 15 miles of which were pretty rough. When I pull the hitch up and down with my hands, I can feel a little free play---not anywhere as bad as the first time, but definitely there. In one month I am heading from Dayton, Ohio to the state of Idaho and back and I sure do not want to be fighting this problem the whole way.

Some thoughts on this: Seems to me that this might happen if the top of the swing arm was "convex", because it would allow the channel to start rocking back and forth. If it ever moves a thousandth of an inch, it will eventually get loose. What about putting two small shims at each end of the channel (on top of the swing arm, maybe even two thin washers). That would give it two points to pull down on? To clarify a little---the shims would be between the top horizontal part of channel and the swing arm. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you have, or if you can even point me in the right direction to get information.

PS --I just added the heavier sway bar---thanks for all your info----Regards----Dan

While I have a F3T, I'm going to have to check my set screws now. I did not know about replacing the pointed screws with flat screws, but it makes sense to me thanks.

 

[Bfromla]

I know the BRP hitch has some plastic on inside (3sides)where it touches the swing arm not much mind you only inch or so & thin at that. :dontknow:
Thought was there to ease sliding on for installing, may be more to it?

 

[spyderfish]

Have the same Issue

Daniel,

I have exactly the same issue with the SC hitch. I also replaced the crappy steel set screws with stainless hex head bolts, which helps keep it from banging.

I have not verified this info with ShowChrome, but here is my theory: The set screws are not key to the strength or the function of the hitch; I believe they are there to help prevent the hitch from rattling when the swing arm bounces up and down on the road. I do not believe they hitch will loosen or fail because of the screws, I think they could be missing and there would be no harm done, except for maybe a little noise as the hitch hits the frame. I actually ran with one set screw missing for 6 months with no issues, except the other set screw rusted in place and it was really tough to remove the hitch. Not sure if this is related.

Again, my theory only, not validated by ShowChrome, buty no adverse issues after 2 years.:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:

Gerry Fischer

 

[Daniel Ward]

Thanks to everyone !

Thanks to everyone who answered this post---it is all helpful. And to "spiderfish"----Yes I agree with everything you said. I don't think it is a safety issue because you would have to break the bolt thru the axle for the hitch to come completely off the bike. But I would prefer that it did not bang around back there and "bugger" up the swing arm on the Spyder ( if one could figure out a reasonable way to fix the problem). I don't see it staying tight with just one set screw under the axle. I my humble opinion, they should have put 2 set screws--one at each end of the channel. I think that would prevent it from ever starting to "move" in the first place. (hopefully)

I am a retired machine shop owner and I still have access to my shop. I may try to come up with a cheap fix for this problem.
And all suggestions are welcome!! I will get back to everyone if I figure out a fix. And thanks again to all !!! Dan


PS---If anyone has fixed this problem, please chime in here !!

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

I had the same issue on my RTL with the show chrome hitch. The axle bolt did not break, but two of the bolts holding the hitch to the bracket broke. I replaced the pointed set screw with a flat bolt a little longer, and added a jam nut to it to lock it into place. I had to do this on the road on the first trip out while in Nova Scotia.
I also added double face 3M mounting tape to the back of the bracket before I bolted it back into place. I have had to do two tire changes after doing this and just loosen the jam nut, back the bolt off a little, pop the tape bracket loose from the swing arm with a flat screwdriver.
Then when I reinstall the hitch, I add new tape, tighten the bolt, then the jamb nut. I have towed my camper trailer almost 20,000 miles after doing this, and as of yet have not had anything loosen up on the hitch again.

Someone else it worked for. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ket-trailer-hitch&highlight=show+chrome+hitch

 

[Daniel Ward]

Thank You Fatcycledaddy !

Thank you Fatcycledaddy ! Now that sounds like a simple fix I can try ! For some reason it never occurred to me to add a jam nut
but sure makes sense to me. I'll round up the tape and nuts. I think I've already got the bolts but just in case, I'll get two more and give this a shot. I suspect that the tape may act as a "shim" ( gasket is probably a better analogy) and even out small irregularities between the swing arm and the channel, in addition to being very sticky . Thanks again. If it works at least twice we'll try for three.

Regards---Dan

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

Thank you Fatcycledaddy ! Now that sounds like a simple fix I can try ! For some reason it never occurred to me to add a jam nut
but sure makes sense to me. I'll round up the tape and nuts. I think I've already got the bolts but just in case, I'll get two more and give this a shot. I suspect that the tape may act as a "shim" ( gasket is probably a better analogy) and even out small irregularities between the swing arm and the channel, in addition to being very sticky . Thanks again. If it works at least twice we'll try for three.

Regards---Dan

Your very welcome.

Be aware that you might have to use a little shorter bolt on the brake side of the wheel. If the bolt is too long it will interfere with the caliper, thread the bolt as far into the bracket as you can before you put the bracket in place. Otherwise you will not have enough room to get it started, it will be too long.

I did not put the tape on the top and bottom side, but on the face of the swing arm, or the part of the bracket that the three bolts go through.

 

[Daniel Ward]

To Fatcycledaddy.

Fatcycledaddy,

Could you be more specific on where you put the 3m double sided tape? Did you stick it on the "vertical" surface of the swing arm, or on the top surface? What I'm calling the vertical surface would be the "side" of the swing arm.---Or both? Also, tell me a little bit about the specific tape you used. Thanks again---Dan

PS---I'm a newbe here so I hope I am responding to the posts the correct way. I don't really know my way around the forum yet.

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

Yes on the vertical surface and it is 3M mounting tape you will find at any auto parts store.

 

[IGETAROUND]

Daniel Ward, another alternative is to replace the set screw with a metric flat bottomed, fine threaded, HEX head stainless steel bolt. This will take a 6 mm T-handled hex driver which will allow you to put all the torque you need to keep it snug. AND you don't have to hassel with sockets and wrenches that don't fit correctly around the brake caliper.

Fatcycledaddy's fix with the double sided tape is cool also. Have pulled ~12,000 miles without a problem since I made the switch.

Al in Kazoo

 

[Daniel Ward]

Thanks again---Good ideas

Fatcycledaddy---I will go shopping for supplies tomorrow---thanks for the tip on installing the brake side bolt before installing the bracket. ( I already learned this the hard way--see below)

Also, thanks to Igetaround (Al in Kazoo)--also a good idea. I will get both types of bolts and see what works best for me. I know that trying to access the set screw on the brake side with an Allen wrench is difficult to say the least. The first time I tried to install this hitch , I could not get the brake side set screw started. I had to take the hitch off and install the set screw, and then put the hitch back on. No big deal but aggravating nonetheless.

I'll try to install the next few days. I'll let you know how it goes .

Thanks again---Dan