Should my GS be Dripping fuel after canister delete?

[the496rocket]

2008 GS - did the canisterectomy last night, ran the vent line up from the tank, certainly higher than the tank itself, then back down along the right side to the rear just like I see people doing on a couple of videos and posts. But I now have a lot of fuel smell from the rear of the bike, and after the ride today it was dripping gas onto my floor, and I could smell gas the whole ride when stopped. Not very thrilled about that. Is something else going on or is this normal after a canister delete?

If so, I would rather leave the canister in place and get a new purge valve. Rather than have gas dripping on my garage floor every time I ride it.

Also, I can hear what sounds like the gas boiling a bit after the ride....

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I kept my cannister but made changes in the hose routing .... I get no gas smell or drips .... Look at my album pics how I did it ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Freddy]

I would say you have a leak from the fuel filter if they are the original dumb oetiker clamps, which cannot be snugged up - probly disturbed them while working in that area.

 

[Mikey]

X2 You got to make sure where the leak is coming from! Is it wet at the end of the hose?:dontknow: I did the rip out on mine and have not had any problem what so ever! Good luck find that leak, it's not a good thing!

 

[the496rocket]

The leak is from the new vent line. I ran it up from the tank, so its about 5-6 inches higher than the tank, then it loops back down along the fuel tank, to the rear of the bike, followed the instructions as best as I could posted by BajaRon. I think the fuel in the tank is getting too hot (hence the slight boiling) and then pushing so much vapor out that it condensates back into gas and then drips out. I seem to read a lot of people have this problem after deleting the canister, but nobody that I read figured out why. I do have the heat shield tape on the tank by the exhaust.

I didnt have a fuel smell before with the canister in place, but I wanted to prevent issues and read that getting rid of the evap system is a good idea. But I would rather replace the purge valve (for good measure) and put the system back in, rather than all the fumes and fuel dripping I have now. Just doesnt seem to make sense as to why some have this problem, and some dont after the delete.

 

[WRCLVR]

/\ agreed before you BBQ the bike and yourself

 

[BajaRon]

Something is definitely wrong with the install. Done correctly, you'll never get any raw fuel out of the vent hose. You must route the vent hose upwards directly out of the tank. If you don't, fuel will settle into the low spot. Then pressure inside the tank will push that fuel over whatever hump is downstream.

Don't run the end of the line down very far. It should end about mid rear wheel. You don't want to create a siphon effect.

Everyone's fuel tank boils. Gasoline boils at a relatively low temperature. The lower the octane, the lower the boiling point. If you use regular gas it will boil sooner than premium. If your tank is low, it will tend to boil sooner (less volume to heat).

 

[the496rocket]

Thanks BajaRon, I am going to try re-routing the line tonight and try again. I also am going to wrap the exhaust near the tank to keep it a bit cooler. So with the vent tube out of the tank, how high up towards the column should I go? Right now its basically making the same loop that it did with the canister in place, and then down along the side of the tank. Wish I could find a picture of the proper routing. I was thinking go up above the airbox then loop back and then along the tank (top or side of tank?) and then down in the rear somewhere on the left side. I have the corbin bags so I need to find a spot where fumes wont accumulate....

I will say it ran exceptionally well last night, have your plugs and wires on along with new TB vacuum lines, and new TB boots. So I am suspecting the purge valve may have been leaking...

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks BajaRon, I am going to try re-routing the line tonight and try again. I also am going to wrap the exhaust near the tank to keep it a bit cooler. So with the vent tube out of the tank, how high up towards the column should I go? Right now its basically making the same loop that it did with the canister in place, and then down along the side of the tank. Wish I could find a picture of the proper routing. I was thinking go up above the airbox then loop back and then along the tank (top or side of tank?) and then down in the rear somewhere on the left side. I have the corbin bags so I need to find a spot where fumes wont accumulate....

I will say it ran exceptionally well last night, have your plugs and wires on along with new TB vacuum lines, and new TB boots. So I am suspecting the purge valve may have been leaking...

Some route in front of the engine. It's a bit easier to do that way. But I don't like that route. As far as I know, it works OK. But putting the vent in front of the riders over the engine never thrilled me. I came right out of the tank up to the right frame rail. Then back along that frame rail (which continues upwards) to just past mid-rear wheel. This gives a slight downturn to the end of the hose. I put a small, clear lawn mower fuel filter on the end. Probably not needed. But I wanted to capture any raw fuel that might make it that far. With the clear filter in a basically horizontal (slight downturn), any fuel that made it that far would pool in the filter and I would be able to see it. I didn't want to recommend that mod if it didn't work well.

Never got anything in that filter. Also keeps bugs out. Not sure if a bug would want to go into that hose. But I just wanted to be sure.

Going uphill right out of the tank is the key. You don't want to create a pocket (low spot). Any fuel which gets to the vent hole must have an uphill climb so that it will immediately return to the tank. If it is allowed to find a place in the hose to sit. It will be forced out to the end and you'll get the problem you're having.

 

[the496rocket]

Okay thanks I will try to re-do it tonight. Just confused as to the frame rail part but I’m sure I can figure it out. My right frame rail goes all the way down right by below the tank. I’ll make sure I don’t have any low spots tonight. This is how it is currently, turns towards the floor in front of the rear wheel.

 

[Mikey]

You see the rail that your magnetic bolt holders on? I would get it up there then work it down towards the back! Good luck!

 

[BajaRon]

Okay thanks I will try to re-do it tonight. Just confused as to the frame rail part but I’m sure I can figure it out. My right frame rail goes all the way down right by below the tank. I’ll make sure I don’t have any low spots tonight. This is how it is currently, turns towards the floor in front of the rear wheel.

View attachment 205153

Your routing is definitely the problem. I would be surprised if you didn't get raw fuel from that routing. The Spyder tank is very shallow in the vent area. It doesn't take much to get a full, or even 3/4, tank to slosh fuel up into the vent hose at the tank interface. I should have said use the right side of the main frame backbone to start. That will give you at least 5" of initial rise right out of the tank. Don't kink or stretch the hose. Leave enough slack for a smooth bend/transition. then back to just past mid rear wheel to terminate at the frame. Secure it along the way but don't squeeze it so that you pinch in off. I think you will be a happy camper once you're done. You'll forget all about it because it is a no maintenance mod.

 

[the496rocket]

Thanks BajaRon, very much appreciate the advise and help

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks BajaRon, very much appreciate the advise and help

Do we have success?