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Shocks OR Swaybar
- Thread starter BigGuy66
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
:agree: .... Also with a SWAY bar, there really isn't any trade-off on ride quality..... Mike :thumbup:
PMK
Active member
You did not mention if you still have oem tires.
I had this same discussion with a friend that just bought a 2021 the other day.
Told him, given the chance again on our 2014 RTS, it would be replace front tires with Federal Formozas first. Next would likely be the aftermarket Fox Shocks, then the swaybar. I like them all, but back then did swaybar, shocks, then tires.
FWIW, my friends 2021 Spyder has about 200 miles since new, he ordered new front tires.
I had this same discussion with a friend that just bought a 2021 the other day.
Told him, given the chance again on our 2014 RTS, it would be replace front tires with Federal Formozas first. Next would likely be the aftermarket Fox Shocks, then the swaybar. I like them all, but back then did swaybar, shocks, then tires.
FWIW, my friends 2021 Spyder has about 200 miles since new, he ordered new front tires.
BertRemington
New member
BG -- 2014 RT-S 77K miles (3rd owner): I'm half your weight (I ride solo) with Kenda tires, OEM shocks and OEM swaybar. When I started, corner turn-in was treacherous. Changed all tires to Vredestein Quatrac 5 (from Tire Rack). Corner turn-in is more predicable and mostly remains stable throughout the turn. Bumpsteer is about as expected and the steering linkage needs tightening so there is some wandering.
So tires first.
After that, it depends on whether comfort or cornering are more important. Comfort would be front shocks with the adjustable Fox's being affordable (I assume your air suspension is working properly). Cornering would be the BR's excellent swaybar.
I'd like to note that BR says the valving on the OEM shocks is pretty good so you might want to talk to him about his cheaper solution -- front shock spring adjusters.
So tires first.
After that, it depends on whether comfort or cornering are more important. Comfort would be front shocks with the adjustable Fox's being affordable (I assume your air suspension is working properly). Cornering would be the BR's excellent swaybar.
I'd like to note that BR says the valving on the OEM shocks is pretty good so you might want to talk to him about his cheaper solution -- front shock spring adjusters.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
I did Federals up front, then the sway bar, then BajaRon's shock adjusters, and finally a General tire out back. The stock shocks are not that bad, and the adjusters will allow you to adjust for your weight. After market shocks are ridiculously expensive, so I just went the adjuster route. My story and I am stilling with it.
Peteoz
Well-known member
Sungate, It would be better if you started your own thread to ask this question, for two reasons - First, it’s not considered polite to hijack someone else’s thread, and second, only those who are interested in BigGuy’s question will be reading this thread. :thumbup:
If you aren’t sure how to do it - Select the Forum box at the top of the page, then select Spyder General Discussion, then select the Post New Thread box (in red). Enter a catchy heading and your question.
Pete
Wmoater
Active member
I ride 2-up 80 percent of the time. I’m 178 and wife is 160. Sway bar made a huge difference. The shock adjusters capped it off with new tires on front. My wife noticed immediately. Shock adjusters are 1 3/4 turn with both and fully loaded frunk, bags and trunk with rack bag I went 2 1/4 turns and it’s PERFECT! I noticed the quick turn solo.
KX5062
Active member
I'll sort of swim against the current here. I say shocks. The sway bar won't prevent front end dive to the degree that proper spring rates on the shocks will do. Sway bars are kind of icing on the cake, but the cake is proper spring rates combined with proper shock settings (compression and rebound).
A sway bar is much cheaper and might work, so to that end you can do it first with little to loose. However, the proper fix is with the shocks/springs set to you weight and riding style, combined with the sway bar.
A sway bar is much cheaper and might work, so to that end you can do it first with little to loose. However, the proper fix is with the shocks/springs set to you weight and riding style, combined with the sway bar.
BigGuy66
Member
All good information and I thank you all. Limited income for me makes me want to choose the swaybar for now. Save up, get the tires or shocks... eventually all three. Roads her in Northern Indiana and most places I ride are pretty decent. They do grade the unpaved roads as well... but they are few here. Thanks again.
Jim
Jim
I fiited new shocks and was going to get a sway bar but no longer see the need. I fitted Wilbers (cost $3500 approx) for all 3 corners. It has made the bike far better handling, better anti-dive behavior, no nervousness in rough corners, and as I tour a lot with my chief cook on the rear we are both able to cover much longer distances for the better ride and handling because we are less fatigued. I like to sport tour so at times its at the "upper end" of the speed "limit"
My mates 14 RTL had the sway bar only, he and his wife rode mine and after 15mins I pulled them up to see what they thought, both had big grins on their faces due to how much better mine was to ride. He ordered M2 for his as they are a little cheaper and dont have the rear remote adjuster like the Wilbers
Mine is a 17 RTL, I weigh approx 95kgs, better half approx 55kgs, but I recently took a long trip with a mate on the back who was 120kgs, and to my surprise we didn't bottom out once - I was expecting it with his weight but the adjustability allowed me to avoid it.
I also find I have a better choice of behavior. With the OEM shocks, I had to adjust the rear to Maximum with my wife on the back, which did make it more harsh for us and the bike. With the Wilbers the rear height stays on mid wether I am sport riding or two up, the Shock valving and spring rate are far far better than the OEM. I used to race MX, sport tour and have always liked to have the ability to tune the suspension to the conditions or ride situation.
Hi,
I've got a 2011 Spyder RT and am also considering the Wilbers shocks.
Can you please share a photo of them on the byke?
How do you access the rear shock for adjusting? From below the bike?
Do you know if they have several types of shocks for thes spyder or only one? Here in Europe i've only found one.
Thank you
I've got a 2011 Spyder RT and am also considering the Wilbers shocks.
Can you please share a photo of them on the byke?
How do you access the rear shock for adjusting? From below the bike?
Do you know if they have several types of shocks for thes spyder or only one? Here in Europe i've only found one.
Thank you
Given the outstanding quality (NOT! :banghead: ) of the OE Links, I reckon you'd be seriously silly NOT to include replacing the links AND the swaybar as a matching set - and at the same time too!! :lecturef_smilie:
Regardless of how sloppy the flexible OE links will already be making your Spyder handling feel, it'll really only take just the one bum-puckering instant immediately after one of the OE links breaks halfway thru a turn, or worse yet, midway thru an emergency evasive manoeuvre, for you to think you were soo bloody STUPID for not having tossed the OE links at the earliest opportunity and fitted a quality set of Heim links and a matching high quality upgrade sway bar at the same time that you'll be kicking yourself about such an abject lack of forethought for years to come! :gaah: . Do you really need to ask me how I know this?!?
pps:So if you even just vaguely think you might benefit from &/or want to upgrade the OE cheese stick... err, sorry, that should read 'OE swaybar' same/same tho!
- just DO IT!! And upgrade the links at the same time! Just like swapping to 'real' car tires & running them at an appropriate (lower) pressure for the (lighter) load your Spyder/Ryker places on them, I doubt you'll ever regret it! hyea: Go On, DO IT! You Know You Want To! :thumbup:
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