• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Shifter lever fix

SpyderJerry

Member
I just had a pecular problem with my 2013 rt se5. It would not upshift. I found after playing with it a bit that I had to center the lever after each shift. I took the control loose from the handle bar and saw that the spring loaded ball that returns shifer to center was stuck down. The spring was broke under it. To repair, I removed the shift lever. Removed the shaft rocker (use a magnet or make sure you cover the hole that the lever came out of as a steel ball will pop out) You will see the ball that is not fully extended(can be reverse or forward). Use a magnet and a very small screw driver or awl to pop the ball out, spring is under it. I had a spare control to get the spring out of. Reversed order for install. I did put some grease on the detent ball and spring for the rocker install. Depressed the ball and spring and install it by staying to the wider side of the swivel flange in order to miss it shooting back out of the lever hole. I'm sure that you could find a small spring at hardware store. I happened to have another spring in my parts stash and installed beck the spare control. Sure beats spending $350 and labor for a new control.
 
I know this is not related, but it worked out very well. I used to race in 1976 Corvette and all of the sudden on the backstretch of a practice lap it basically died. After looking everything over the last thing I checked was pulling the distributor cap and I found the spring for the mechanical advance had broken. Not being really close to an auto parts shop or anything else, I looked at it very carefully and found that it looked almost identical to a ballpoint pen spring. I took the spring out of my ball point pen compared to the broken spring and it looked Super close. Popped the old one out put the ball point pen spring in and bang I came in first. Who can have luck like that? It just shows as the original post did you have to use your head.
 
I recently had the same problem on my SE6. It did not want to upshift. I quickly realized that the shifter paddle was not returning to center. Just as SpyderJerry stated above, one of the springs was broken and not returning the paddle to center. I ordered some SS springs from Amazon for the repair. I couldn't find the exact length, but I was able to cut them to the proper length with a pair of small diagonal cutters. The tension needs to be equal on both springs for the shifter paddle to return to center. For that reason, I suggest that both springs be replaced at the same time. I took a few photos of the repair as well as the spring as ordered, cut, and original. As Jerry stated above, be very careful when removing the powdered metal rocker as the ball and spring will shoot out the bottom hole where the paddle is attached. Jerry has provided excellent instructions to follow. Here's the keywords for Amazon search for springs: Stainless Steel Compression Springs 20 pcs (0.5 x 4 x 15mm)

John
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1147.jpg
    IMG_1147.jpg
    34.2 KB · Views: 100
  • IMG_1148.jpg
    IMG_1148.jpg
    35.3 KB · Views: 93
  • IMG_1146.jpg
    IMG_1146.jpg
    45.9 KB · Views: 90
  • IMG_1149.jpg
    IMG_1149.jpg
    35.8 KB · Views: 90
  • IMG_1150.jpg
    IMG_1150.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 89
  • IMG_1151.jpg
    IMG_1151.jpg
    49.1 KB · Views: 90
  • IMG_1152.jpg
    IMG_1152.jpg
    40.8 KB · Views: 91
Back
Top