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She won't start

murphybrown

New member
OK experts. Here I am with 40 and 50 degree days..no snow on roads and Ms Spyder has an "attitude" and will NOT start. Have on trickle charger...Tries to turn over but won't catch...one good try, one weak, then the digital screen goes grey and striped. Immediate strong gas smell...like it is flooding out. This is the original battery. Almost 70k . 2010 RTSE5. I am 200 miles from dealer over 2 mountain passes and no trailer.
If this was you where would you start. I can feel a "nasty attitude" coming my way if I can't ryde...:banghead::banghead:. Soooo I come to you with humble (teachable) request. EEEEKKKKK murphybrown is getting desperate to ryde. Thanks I'll try anything and everything!!!! :bowdown: to all you gurus..
 
:shocked: This has the smell of not enough electricity...
The question is: Why?
The age of the battery yields a clue... it might have given it's all, and is in need of replacement.
Before retiring it though; I'd check the condition and tightness of the connections to it.
Good Luck! Please let us know what happens next! :thumbup:
 
Bob Bob Bob you forget

:shocked: This has the smell of not enough electricity...
The question is: Why?
The age of the battery yields a clue... it might have given it's all, and is in need of replacement.
Before retiring it though; I'd check the condition and tightness of the connections to it.
Good Luck! Please let us know what happens next! :thumbup:
Who you are dealing with...the queen of what is that? OK give me a few more hints on where and how to check the condition and tightness of the connections... thanks. :bowdown:
 
Uh-oh... :shocked:
You need to get directly to the battery and it's connections.
Left side; kind of underneath the left passenger grab bar.
Lamont has posted the exact removal procedures for that surgery; I just can't find it! :opps:
I think that if you PM him about it; he can get you pointed in the proper direction. :thumbup:
Once you can actually see the battery; you'll just need to check the tightness and cleanliness of the connections.
Then; there a about a TON of folks in here who can tell you exactly how to test the battery's actual condition.
But I'd ask Scotty first!

If it sounds as if I'm pushing you off to other sources; I am! :opps:
I'm far better with theory, than I am with wrenches! nojoke
 
If it sounds as if I'm pushing you off to other sources; I am! :opps:
I'm far better with theory, than I am with wrenches! nojoke < From Bob our Theory consultant

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

Cruzr Joe
 
Jump start it. Ride it to the nearest dealer. Do not.....turn it off until you get there. If you need fuel. Fuel it while it is running. Do not top it off. Or if that worries you and you need fuel. Have someone follow you to the station and jump it again. jm2c
 
Are you comfortable with taking panels off?

Open seat. Disconnect gas spring, support seat. On the left side there is a battery panel, remove the two screws. You will have to disconnect the heated grips if you have them, and the passenger pillion switch. Then you will have to remove the top rear side panel. You will be able to get to the battery then.

I suspect a bad battery. Try a full charge first. Not a trickle. If the battery is bad it won't accept a trickle charge.
 
STARTING THIS

I am not familiar with the RT .........But if you can access any terminals ( + & - ) from under the seat ( and these don't have to be directly on the BATTERY ....check your opr.manual ) you can jump start it with a car Battery ......You won't need to have the car/trk etc. running. If you don't have a car call a neighbor .......Good luck ....Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
STARTING THIS

I am not familiar with the RT .........But if you can access any terminals ( + & - ) from under the seat ( and these don't have to be directly on the BATTERY ....check your opr.manual ) you can jump start it with a car Battery ......or possibly a LAWN TRACTOR BATTERY ......You won't need to have the car/trk etc. running. If you don't have a car call a neighbor .......Good luck ....Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Have to agree..!!

jump start it. If this gets you going then you will know for sure your battery is your problem. You can check for a new one locally at auto parts as well as walmart sears target etc. Unless you have a full charger you may not be able to get it back up enough to start. Checking the connections you should start at the battery then the ground connections to the frame. I'm sure you will be able to jump it. Don't know if you or someone with you can do the work but if not then best jump it and make a run for the dealer. If gas is needed make stops a gas stations with shops that can jump start you again...good luck..:thumbup:
 
Just had the same thing happen to me. 2010 RTS SE5. Went to start it and according to the volt gauge, it went to below 8 volt before the screen died. Just replaced to battery after 4 years with a battery from Interstate Battery. The other possible cause is the battery screw or screws worked loose. This causes a big voltage drop also and will give the same indication.
 
That unfortunately not an option

Jump start it. Ride it to the nearest dealer. Do not.....turn it off until you get there. If you need fuel. Fuel it while it is running. Do not top it off. Or if that worries you and you need fuel. Have someone follow you to the station and jump it again. jm2c
i am 200 miles to a dealer over 2 mountain passes. Will file your advise for later when I can do that. Thanks for your input I really do :thumbup:
 
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?29642-RT-panels-off-and-on-video

If your safe and sound at home with the problem I would do the following-
1- Watch Lamonts video of taking RT Tupperware off a few times -Then do it on the Left side.
2-Check and tighten battery connections- For one pole you can just lift on plastic under seat and slip a 10mm wrench in to tighten.
3-Research online and find a appropriate battery locally.
4-Charge and install battery and put back on Tupperware once you know it starts.

That's what I would do in your situation.
 
Order a battery. UPS and FedEx deliver. Charge and install new battery. Clean cable ends while you have it apart.
 
Battery

Normally, a battery is a known good for 3 years. More than that is a bonus. Less is rare, but other problems might be at work. I am thinking it is "4", and needs to be replaced. If you can do the work, remove the side covers to access the battery. Lots of torx screws, but simple to do. Then remove the cables and remove the battery hold down. Remove battery, and take to any auto parts store to load test/charge. If, after a charge, it fails to hold up to the load, it needs to be replaced. There are several new kinds of batteries out that last longer, and are more powerful. I just found one called a Mirai. Very light, very powerful, and only 20 bucks more than a AGM battery. Order online, and you can have it in a couple of days. Or, source locally at batteries plus or an auto parts store. Check all connections that go to and come from the battery. The ground is a horrible design, and difficult to tighten. If it is at all loose, it will degrade the charging system. Good luck! Call SpyderAnn01 if you have any questions on the process - I am her pit crew! Good Luck!
 
Karyl, I'm crossing my fingers for you that it is just in need of a new battery. If you have any friends or neighbors who are good with cars they could help you with a battery check or install. Don't need to be a Spyder mechanic to work on the battery.
 
Won't Start

BAD BATTERY. BRP has a new heavy-duty battery that I had installed at Spyderfest last year on my RT. No battery problems since.
If you jump start, make sure the car is turned OFF. Otherwise the voltage regulators will fight each other.
My 2010RT has 70,000miles on it and I am on my third battery.
My $0.02
 
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