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Seat latch won't open - any new ideas?

DoctorJ999

New member
2016 F3T seat latch won't unlock with the key. I've tried pushing down on the seat, WD40, prying under the seat edge... any new ideas??? I lubed it and the frunk latch/cable before putting it away, and the frunk works fine... will this be a trip to the dealer?😕
 
You might try sitting on the seat, turn the key, then move off the seat. That would put more down pressure on it than just pushing down.
Mine was getting so it would stick. I disconnected the cable to the key, and put a piece of small diameter, plastic covered cable on it that can be pulled from the right hand side. It pushes up under the edge of the seat when not being used.

Remember to thank the factory engineers for yet another well designed system...
 
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Thanks... I tried putting my whole weight on a knee and kneeling on it, but I'll try sitting completely on it and try again... How do you disconnect the cable to the key?? I saw an old vid where they left the motor running while engaging the key to open the frunk. Is the seat latch a purely mechanical i.e. cable endeavor or it also electrical somehow? I'm thinking that if it's if electrical, maybe having the engine on/running would help?
 
As far as I know the key turns and pulls the cable to the seat. No electrical at all to unlock the seat. Some people unhook the cable to the seat or frunk, and put a wire from the lock/latch over to the side of Spyder. They use that instead of the ignition key to turn an unlock the frunk or seat.
 
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Thanks... I tried putting my whole weight on a knee and kneeling on it, but I'll try sitting completely on it and try again... How do you disconnect the cable to the key?? I saw an old vid where they left the motor running while engaging the key to open the frunk. Is the seat latch a purely mechanical i.e. cable endeavor or it also electrical somehow? I'm thinking that if it's if electrical, maybe having the engine on/running would help?

Yes, the cable is a metal cable inside a rubber or plastic cover just like clutch cables or the old throttle cables. Nothing electrical. It just attaches to a lever under the seat. I just unhooked mine under the seat and left the cable taped to the frame. Not gonna be turning the key that way, so it can stay until I have to pull the dash out for something else. I guess you could just take some lineman's pliers and snip the cable off. I sure don't plan to ever put it back on. Got the cable to the frunk lock disconnected too.
 
IMO, you should try using compressed air to blow out any debris. If that doesn't work, you may need to remove the seat trim to access the latch mechanism.
 
Glad this came up again. I am having the same issue with my wife's 2016 F3L Special Series. If I ever get it to unlatch, I will definitly be running a cable to the side. Don't wanna chance breaking the key in the switch.
 
You might try sitting on the seat, turn the key, then move off the seat. That would put more down pressure on it than just pushing down.
Mine was getting so it would stick. I disconnected the cable to the key, and put a piece of small diameter, plastic covered cable on it that can be pulled from the right hand side. It pushes up under the edge of the seat when not being used.

Remember to thank the factory engineers for yet another well designed system...

Such a stupid way to do things! I just don't understand why BRP adds complexity to a system that does NOT need to be complex.

As we ALL know, the more complex a system is, the more of a chance that it'll break at some point.

KISS Keep It Simple Stupid!

Mechanical cables connected to the ignition systems in order to open storage compartments are CERTAINLY NOT SIMPLE and very stupid IMO.
 
Push forward on the seat while turning the key, as well as down. Most likely it’s dirty or gummed up. Clean and lube the latch, making certain it opens all the way. Install and remove the seat several times to make sure it’s working properly.
 
Fishing line leader, thin, light, almost invisible and strong... attach to latch, tuck under panels. Used for seat and frunk on my RTL. Also used on my Suzuki Burgman 650 with the same type of cable release & same potential for failure. Cheap and easy fix.
 
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