My 2012 SE5 rt started stalling today every time we would come to a stop, figured out its not down shifting, I've read to check oil levels and I did and it is almost full, had oil changed at 9k miles at the dealer it has a little over 10k miles right now, The only way to get home from a ride was to manually downshift and avoid stopping (timing out the red lights) it would even stall on 1st gear, I would have to keep the rpm's up and apply the brake to keep from stalling . anyone else have this issue, My closest dealer is about 2hrs away, any advice would be appreciated , thx in advance
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
SE5 Not Downshifting
- Thread starter stevo62
- Start date
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
So, we have an SE5 that won't initiate an Auto downshift, but paddle shifting works normally in both directions. However, even when manually downshifted to 1st, the engine won't idle and keeps trying to die at a stop. I'm actually more interested in that because a lot of throttle manipulation, depending on how you're doing it, can interrupt the Auto downshift initiation.
So, what is the engine idle behavior in Neutral? Is it hard starting, idle rough, idle fast, keep trying to die? Does it run normally at higher RPM? If so, typical symptoms of a large vacuum leak such as failed purge valve or hoses to the MAP sensor. Vacuum hoses is always the old standby here, anyway. Your machine is 4 years old. Any codes? Check Engine Light? Just need to divide and conquer a little and separate the issues.
If idle operation is normal, what happens when you shift to 1st. Hard shift, feel like the centrifugal clutch is dragging on the engine at idle? Or after you start moving does it feel like it's not disengaging? Well, that would be a worse problem and probably a trip to the dealer is required. Or, are things relatively normal after startup, and the problems start after riding for awhile?
So, what is the engine idle behavior in Neutral? Is it hard starting, idle rough, idle fast, keep trying to die? Does it run normally at higher RPM? If so, typical symptoms of a large vacuum leak such as failed purge valve or hoses to the MAP sensor. Vacuum hoses is always the old standby here, anyway. Your machine is 4 years old. Any codes? Check Engine Light? Just need to divide and conquer a little and separate the issues.
If idle operation is normal, what happens when you shift to 1st. Hard shift, feel like the centrifugal clutch is dragging on the engine at idle? Or after you start moving does it feel like it's not disengaging? Well, that would be a worse problem and probably a trip to the dealer is required. Or, are things relatively normal after startup, and the problems start after riding for awhile?
Last edited:
Yes I can get it on reverse, its on 1st gear when I start up, unless I put it on N when I shut down, No codes
Engine Bahavior is same as always, Idle normal 1300-1400, it does not sound like it wants to die. Took it for a ride this morning and sometimes it downshifts and sometimes it don't, it only died once while it was downshifting by its self, checked the oil again and its full, took some panels off on the left side but cant really see anything abnormal, I only see 1 hose but doesn't look cracked or broken, I wonder if I should pressure wash it with a reg hose nozzle, since we live by the coast and maybe something is just sticking?
I took the lower panel (LH) off but cant figure out where the Map sensor vac hose is, We just recently move and lost my CD with the diagrams, thx . I'll keep looking ,
Found a pic here on the Vac line, looks like its on top of the engine, not sure what panels to take off , but I'll keep looking, thx
Last edited:
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
spyderCodes
Member
It is possible that your map sensor hoses need replaced but I doubt if that is your problem.
On the SE5 shifting is initiated by the ECM (engine Control Module) by opening & closing a couple of solenoids (electrically controlled valves).
Since the ECM or TCM (Transmission Control Module) aren't throwing codes back I would remove the oil inspection Tupperware to expose the oil tank and look at the wiring and connectors that surround the aluminum structure behind the oil tank.
You'll see connectors and wires.
Make sure the connectors are snapped together securely.
It's possible either the transmission oil filter has either collapsed upon itself, the shift unit has picked up some dirt or the solenoids are not always working.
On the SE5 shifting is initiated by the ECM (engine Control Module) by opening & closing a couple of solenoids (electrically controlled valves).
Since the ECM or TCM (Transmission Control Module) aren't throwing codes back I would remove the oil inspection Tupperware to expose the oil tank and look at the wiring and connectors that surround the aluminum structure behind the oil tank.
You'll see connectors and wires.
Make sure the connectors are snapped together securely.
It's possible either the transmission oil filter has either collapsed upon itself, the shift unit has picked up some dirt or the solenoids are not always working.
Last edited:
Ok Thanks , I'll check that
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
And if we understand your problem correctly, shifting with the paddle worked every time with no issues. Auto downshifting was not working correctly. And there was a tendency to stall at idle. But, both the Auto downshifting and the stalling issue showed improvement on the ride this morning compared to previous. Auto downshifting needs 4 conditions to initiate:
-Throttle released
-Vehicle decelerates
-Preset RPM reached
-Preset speed reached
If you don't find anything wrong with your checks, give it some more exercise.
-Throttle released
-Vehicle decelerates
-Preset RPM reached
-Preset speed reached
If you don't find anything wrong with your checks, give it some more exercise.
Last edited:
billybovine
Active member
Something else easy to check just in case. The shift lever will come loose and bind. Not allowing it to shift sometimes. It is located in front of the left foot peg. Under the lower side bodywork. The lever must be all the way on the spline shaft with a small amount of the shaft sticking through the lever. Grab the lever and try and slide it back and forth on the shaft. If it slides tighten up the pinch bolt.
Yes , I checked that first, it was good , Thx
Running Great now
I changes the Vacuum Line , It was the front side, and went for a ride, and its back to normal, I shot some video and im gonna try and post it on you tube, I had already taken everthing apart so it might look weird uploading in reverse , thanks everyone, hope my pics load up
I changes the Vacuum Line , It was the front side, and went for a ride, and its back to normal, I shot some video and im gonna try and post it on you tube, I had already taken everthing apart so it might look weird uploading in reverse , thanks everyone, hope my pics load up
Attachments
Highwayman2013
New member
Agree, there is another vacuum line behind the sensor that goes to the other injector.
Here's a short video if anyone wants to see it, I had already taken it apart when I started shooting video,
https://youtu.be/CfTPUz-3ytA
https://youtu.be/CfTPUz-3ytA
