SE5 Clutch is Gone- Less than 3,000 Miles, Any thoughts?

[beachguy]

Hi members,

It's a 2011, purchased with 1,000 miles, has been shifted at the correct rpms. Dealer has never replaced a clutch at this low mileage. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Beachguy

Update:

As a new member, I appreciate everyone's feedback. I spoke with the original dealership, and the RT was serviced at 600 miles with the correct oil. Computer updates were also done. Warranty has expired, wish it wan't so. Now waiting on parts from Canada.


Oct. 15 Update:

Just wanted to let members know that I had my Spyder repaired through Jaxacksonville Power Sports service dept. and was grateful with what they were able to work out with Can-Am, since the bike was past its warranty. They took responsibility for the clutch wearing out so soon. It's interesting to have learned however, from both the forum and the dealer, that the oil type is so critical in the operation and life of the transmission. Happy to have my bike back and put 300 miles on it this weekend. All is good.

 

[Huddleston]

Hi members,

It's a 2011, purchased with 1,000 miles, has been shifted at the correct rpms. Dealer has never replaced a clutch at this low mileage. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Beachguy

Since you purchased it used, is it possible that something other than pure synthetic oil was used? According to BRP, that can cause the clutch to slip.

 

[Chupaca]

Hard to say..!!

have seen it but rare..the problem lies in how those first 1,000 miles were driven. We had a guy who rode his like a Harley and ran around at a very low rpm's and got rid of it because it ran so poorly. Hope this isn't the one. The clutch does not fully engauge till you reach 3,500 rpm's. You were doing things right but started at a worn point. If this is the case. See what they find at replacement...!! :yikes:

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Whatever the cause I sure hope your dealer is getting this covered under warranty.

 

[ARtraveler]

Hope you got some kind of warranty. The clutch should not go out at that early stage unless driven wrong (abused), or maybe just the wrong oil.

 

[Magdave]

Speaking of oil you have checked it hot to make sure it is full correct?

 

[DrewNJ]

If everything else checks out (oil ok, correct rpm, machine not abused, etc etc) I'd just chalk it up to "sh1t happens". Parts fail prematurely sometimes due to whatever...It's not a common thing unless the machine is not being operated/maintained properly.:thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

Since you purchased it used, is it possible that something other than pure synthetic oil was used? According to BRP, that can cause the clutch to slip.

If this is true, then why does BRP recommend their Blended Oil for the Spyder? I believe their blended oil (which is typically 10-15% synthetic) is what comes in the Spyder off the assembly line.

 

[Huddleston]

If this is true, then why does BRP recommend their Blended Oil for the Spyder? I believe their blended oil (which is typically 10-15% synthetic) is what comes in the Spyder off the assembly line.

Actually,I should have said, that something “other than the oils recommended by BRP” mighthave been used. Also, an additive might have been used. The manual and service manual say:
Engine Oil
RecommendedEngine Oil
The same oil is used for the engine, gearbox,clutch, and the Hydraulic Control Module (HCM) on the SE5 model. Use the XPS4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirementsfor API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE
To avoiddamaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting the API service SM or ILSAC GF-4 classification.Clutch slippage willoccur.

NOTICE
Do not addany oil additives to the recommended oil. This may lead to gearbox and clutchmalfunctions.

 

[BajaRon]

Actually,I should have said, that something “other than the oils recommended by BRP” mighthave been used. Also, an additive might have been used. The manual and service manual say:
Engine Oil
RecommendedEngine Oil
The same oil is used for the engine, gearbox,clutch, and the Hydraulic Control Module (HCM) on the SE5 model. Use the XPS4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirementsfor API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification.Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE
To avoiddamaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting the API service SM or ILSAC GF-4 classification.Clutch slippage willoccur.

NOTICE
Do not addany oil additives to the recommended oil. This may lead to gearbox and clutchmalfunctions.

Ok, that works.

Of course someone could have put the wrong oil in or added something they should not have. But at 1,000 miles it doesn't seem likely. Unless it happened at the 600 mile service somehow.

Most probable scenario is lugging to the extreme. If you consider why someone would sell their Spyder with only 1,000 miles on it, could have been someone who just couldn't stand the RPM a Spyder needs to turn to be happy.

 

[spydaman60]

Whatever the cause I sure hope your dealer is getting this covered under warranty.

i'm with anne on this one. you'd think your dealer should jump in and go to bat for you!!!pps:

 

[Bob Denman]

:welcome: Sorry to see that your first post has to be about a problem... :shocked:

 

[Schnauzer]

2011 w/3,000 miles in 2yrs. Sounds to me more of an issue with the small jet/orfice they used during that time. It actually starved the clutch for lubricant. They upgraded to a larger orfice to allow a bigger volume of lubricant to flow. I don't fully understand the reason for rpm's needing to be high, unless the pressure is to low from the pump. Small orfice, higher pressure i guess.

I told my wife when she went and bought hers, Motorcycles are not meant to be automatic.. and no you can't buy one, so she got the SM5, 38,000 miles and no clutch issues,actually only issue was dry-rot on the vaccum hoses from the map sensor to the TB... and she ride's it just like my harley.. putt,putt everywhere we go..

 

[BajaRon]

2011 w/3,000 miles in 2yrs. Sounds to me more of an issue with the small jet/orfice they used during that time. It actually starved the clutch for lubricant. They upgraded to a larger orfice to allow a bigger volume of lubricant to flow. I don't fully understand the reason for rpm's needing to be high, unless the pressure is to low from the pump. Small orfice, higher pressure i guess.

I told my wife when she went and bought hers, Motorcycles are not meant to be automatic.. and no you can't buy one, so she got the SM5, 38,000 miles and no clutch issues,actually only issue was dry-rot on the vaccum hoses from the map sensor to the TB... and she ride's it just like my harley.. putt,putt everywhere we go..

You can lug the SM5 without damage to the clutch. Not good for the motor but it's pretty bullet proof and will stand up to it. But like most things.... Just works a lot better if ridden as designed.

 

[rcturner]

Hi members,

It's a 2011, purchased with 1,000 miles, has been shifted at the correct rpms. Dealer has never replaced a clutch at this low mileage. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Beachguy

Update:

As a new member, I appreciate everyone's feedback. I spoke with the original dealership, and the RT was serviced at 600 miles with the correct oil. Computer updates were also done. Warranty has expired, wish it wan't so. Now waiting on parts from Canada.

Which clutch ? If it is the clutch pack, there is really nothing that the rider can do to cause failure. If it is the centrificul, that you can damage pretty easily. The wrong oil however, can cause clutch pack failure in a fairly short period of time.

 

[Omcge]

Hi members,

It's a 2011, purchased with 1,000 miles, has been shifted at the correct rpms. Dealer has never replaced a clutch at this low mileage. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Beachguy

Update:

As a new member, I appreciate everyone's feedback. I spoke with the original dealership, and the RT was serviced at 600 miles with the correct oil. Computer updates were also done. Warranty has expired, wish it wan't so. Now waiting on parts from Canada.

Does the clutch slip or not engage at all? Did it happen suddenly or gradually?

 

[Bob Denman]

You'll first notice them sliipping under high-load circumstances. :shocked:

 

[Farmbanker]

have seen it but rare..the problem lies in how those first 1,000 miles were driven. We had a guy who rode his like a Harley and ran around at a very low rpm's and got rid of it because it ran so poorly. Hope this isn't the one. The clutch does not fully engauge till you reach 3,500 rpm's. You were doing things right but started at a worn point. If this is the case. See what they find at replacement...!! :yikes:

I agree. At 1,000 miles I bet it was abused with low RPM shifting by the first owner.


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[neelbert]

4th clutch

I agree. At 1,000 miles I bet it was abused with low RPM shifting by the first owner.


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I have a 2010 rt A\C se-5 10750 miles on the 4th clutch. 1st 4400 miles would not disengage, 2nd dealer installed wrong:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead: 300 miles had to take to another dealer to get it fixed . 3rd started slipping at 8400 miles. 4th clutch update installed more disc changed orfice, larger tran filter put 750 miles on it since last Thursday . runs great. BRP knows of the clutch issues .They should step up and update it free.