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SACHS shocks on 2014 RT's

Spyderdale

New member
Anybody tried these on their 2013 RT ? Probably a lot cheaper than Elkas. Might not be available yet but I think I will check with my dealer. Any comments ? Thanks .
 
They're set up for the heavier weight of the 2014s, but it sounds like a worthwhile experiment... :thumbup:
Let us know what you find out; Good luck! :D
 
There is one member that has done the swap. He reported it sat an inch or 2 higher in the front and was much more stable.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...on-2013-VSS-upgrade&highlight=2013+2014+shock

"Yesterday my dealer -Extreme Propulsion in Cartersville - installed new oem 2014 RT shocks on my 2013 RTS-SE5.

This thread about 'duplicating adjustable shocks' and calculations was something I was going to try while i waited for the oem shocks which I did not expect until late December. I figured spares would be in short supply until production runs were finished. I guess those people anxiously awaiting their 2014's will get them soon as they shipped my spares last week.

Yesterday as I said - they were installed. Total damages $377 installed. Shocks are about $80 each - springs about $50 and install about 1 1/2 hours. If you want to try this you need shocks and springs only. The top perch and collar from the 2013 can be re-used.

I have not done all the quantitative 'stuff' yet. Haven't measured everything and compared across my notes - but the new springs are slightly stiffer as are the shocks. Apparently BRP has 'responded' and built the springs / shocks they should have done in the beginning. That is probably a cheap shot as no one can tell in advance what 'ride' characteristics the consumer wants in advance.

So this is a 'my seat of the pants' report. I will follow on with another quantitative post that Jerry and I can noodle on. LOL
From a quantitative perspective I can tell you that the tech measured ride height and it was about 3/4" higher after the new springs so they are definitely a higher rate spring.

Ride and handling are very subjective so here it is.
I wanted to maintain 'cruising' suspension characterstics - with this new set up I can say the ride is a bit firmer but not uncomfortable. So far I have only ridden solo so i still have to put the better half on the bike and see how that goes.

My 80 mile ride home has a lot of different road segments two lane, four lane, twisty and super slab. So I got a lot of different perspectives.

My main problem with the original set up was that even though I had the Bajaron installed and it helped a great deal in controlling body lean ( a very good investment) it did not solve weight transfer rate issues. My problem was that I felt that 'turn in' took too long. It was almost a two step process. I would turn the bars and the bike would start to turn, then the weight would transfer and the tires would 'bite' on the outside and I would have to take out some input. I did not like that at all.

With the new setup the weight transfer is a bit faster and smoother and the turn in is more responsive and predictable. No more hunting for the right steering input. The suspension 'sets' earlier in the turn and stays put. And that is a LOVELY thing in a corner.

Straight line is also very much improved as the bike is not upset by small irregularities in the road surface as it was before.

All in all $377 very well spent. Since I finished most of my mod's list (see below) over the last weekend I am pretty much done. One last mod to put led's on the mirrors but that will be simple.

Then I am just going to ride like crazy. Well at least until I get the mind to tinker again. That dual spring setup is still on my mind and I still have the AFCO shocks I stole for $205 on EBay.
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Thanks everyone for your comments and have fun riding.
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You can buy the parts (spring, shock, and end caps), total mail order for a single shock is $136.96 each, so a set is $273.92. A $360 price to include installation isn't bad.

I would think these shocks are the same length as 13 shocks. If they are, and the bike seems to stand taller, I'd say the 13 front springs are too soft for you whereas the Sacs shock springs are spot on or a bit stiffer. Better to be taller than to sit too low... you scrape the bottom of the frunk.

Jerry
 
The 13 RT's and the 14 RT's have the same frame and suspension so couldn't you just put the 14 springs on the 13 shocks? Or are the 14 shocks better somehow?
 
The 14 springs look shorter than the 13 springs and the shock body is slightly thicker (better valving inside) but the ETE length may be the same. You might be able t use the 14 spring but you'd need a spacer. I am using a 13 rear spring on my 12 rear shock with a 1.5" spacer.

Jerry
 
The 14 springs look shorter than the 13 springs and the shock body is slightly thicker (better valving inside) but the ETE length may be the same. You might be able t use the 14 spring but you'd need a spacer. I am using a 13 rear spring on my 12 rear shock with a 1.5" spacer.

Jerry
The link I posted it was just a swap out not mods needed.:thumbup:
 
Sachs shocks

You can buy the parts (spring, shock, and end caps), total mail order for a single shock is $136.96 each, so a set is $273.92. A $360 price to include installation isn't bad.

I would think these shocks are the same length as 13 shocks. If they are, and the bike seems to stand taller, I'd say the 13 front springs are too soft for you whereas the Sacs shock springs are spot on or a bit stiffer. Better to be taller than to sit too low... you scrape the bottom of the frunk.

Jerry
Sounds like they would be an improvement and much cheaper than Elkas.
 
Sounds like they would be an improvement and much cheaper than Elkas.

Yes, but I suspect you can just add a spacer to your 2013 front shocks to get them dialed in. That's all it took to get my 2012 front shocks in the ball park. That cost me about $12. The issue is not really with the shock damping function, but the springs as they are too weak. With only a 2.5" working range, the spring is too soft so they bottom out even if you only weigh 200lbs and ride solo. If you are heavy enough, they stay almost bottomed out so the shocks are challanged to dampen any motion as there s little motion.

Jerry
 
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