I'm not sure. I think it's magic..:dontknow:
I do leave the fob in ALL the time, maybe that's my drain ?
It
shouldn't be the fob!! :lecturef_smilie:
If your GPS is the only 'extra' device &/or accessory that you've installed that's connected directly to the battery, then I'd be punting on it being the GPS too... :sour:
You could always disconnect the GPS for a few weeks & see what happens..... Or better yet, if you want to know today, just do the test BajaRon suggested, it's not all that hard if you have a multimeter that'll read 12v DC - usually the 0-20 DCV setting will work.
You just hafta get your multimeter, set it to the desired range, & turn it on. Then with the Ryker's engine & ignition turned off, disconnect one of the GPS wires at the battery; connect/put one multimeter probe onto the GPS wire you just disconnected; put the other probe onto the battery terminal you just disconnected that GPS wire from - if there's any current being drawn it'll show on the multimeter reading; there should be none, so anything other than Zero is showing there's a current drain! And if it shows a drain, there's your culprit, move your GPS connection to a switched circuit & it shouldn't be a problem any more!

hyea:
If you get a Zero when testing the GPS wiring, you can do exactly the same test the same way for the entire Ryker; only instead of connecting the multimeter in line between the GPS and the battery, you need to connect it in line between one of the battery terminals & the battery lead that you just took off that terminal; and if you see anything but a Zero on the multimeter reading when you do that, you can pull each of the fuses one at a time to see what it is that's still sucking juice! Only it's probably worth doing that test a day AFTER you last turned the Ryker's ignition on - cos if the Ryker's anything like the Spyders, there might be some ongoing power use for a (relatively) short while after shut down.
Tell us what results you get if you try any/either/all of these tests. :thumbup: