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2013 RT-L SE5 Not shifting?

trong

New member
Hi All,
Vehicle: 2013 RT Limited SE5 with 1452 miles. Bought it last year with 45 miles on it, the Spyder was in brand new condition with bad tires for sitting flat too long.
Soon after I got it, I replaced all 3 tires, also the battery replaced with a Yuasa same model that was in the Spyder, oil and filters were replaced at 400 miles. We put about 1400 miles, trouble free, on it in since last year including at least one ride per week since weather got nice last month. Battery is kept charged during winter months, start up and ride occasionally weather permitting. No major modifications both electrical and mechanical, just a stop light flasher module installed on left stop light last september.

Problem: We took it out for a ride like we normally do on weekends, destination unknown, with stop and go traffic highway. Everything was working fine with no symptom or error. Stop at a traffic light, about 20 miles from home, the Spyder downshifts to first gear fine. Light turns green I take off then could not shift to 2nd gear, try few time then pull over about 800 feet away. Turned off then turned on, the Spyder did not shift itself to Neutral like it normally does. With engine running, I could not shift out of 1st gear to either Neutral or Reverse. Called tow truck, they said they will be there in about an hour. While waiting I disconnected the battery and wait a few minuted thinking that could reset the TCU, that did not help. Checked the oil and it a little more than half way between empty and full marks.

Got the Spyder, on flat bed, home and I google the shifting problem with the SE5, quite a few suggests to check the shifting linkage, and the paddle shifting switch, Guess what, both were fine. I use a 13mm wrench to manually shift while engine is off, I could go back and forth between R, N, and 1st. The Spyder actually goes backward when I put it in R. I put it back in 1st manually then drive it in the garage for now.

At this point I think either the Hydraulic Shifting Actuator or the Transmission Control Unit causes the issue.

Anybody with the similar issue and what was the culprit?

Thanks in Advance and cheers.
 
Hi All,
Vehicle: 2013 RT Limited SE5 with 1452 miles. Bought it last year with 45 miles on it, the Spyder was in brand new condition with bad tires for sitting flat too long.
Soon after I got it, I replaced all 3 tires, also the battery replaced with a Yuasa same model that was in the Spyder, oil and filters were replaced at 400 miles. We put about 1400 miles, trouble free, on it in since last year including at least one ride per week since weather got nice last month. Battery is kept charged during winter months, start up and ride occasionally weather permitting. No major modifications both electrical and mechanical, just a stop light flasher module installed on left stop light last september.

Problem: We took it out for a ride like we normally do on weekends, destination unknown, with stop and go traffic highway. Everything was working fine with no symptom or error. Stop at a traffic light, about 20 miles from home, the Spyder downshifts to first gear fine. Light turns green I take off then could not shift to 2nd gear, try few time then pull over about 800 feet away. Turned off then turned on, the Spyder did not shift itself to Neutral like it normally does. With engine running, I could not shift out of 1st gear to either Neutral or Reverse. Called tow truck, they said they will be there in about an hour. While waiting I disconnected the battery and wait a few minuted thinking that could reset the TCU, that did not help. Checked the oil and it a little more than half way between empty and full marks.

Got the Spyder, on flat bed, home and I google the shifting problem with the SE5, quite a few suggests to check the shifting linkage, and the paddle shifting switch, Guess what, both were fine. I use a 13mm wrench to manually shift while engine is off, I could go back and forth between R, N, and 1st. The Spyder actually goes backward when I put it in R. I put it back in 1st manually then drive it in the garage for now.

At this point I think either the Hydraulic Shifting Actuator or the Transmission Control Unit causes the issue.

Anybody with the similar issue and what was the culprit?

Thanks in Advance and cheers.

OK, if you waited more than 1 min. after shut-off, the reading you got imho was too much. The V-twin drains back pretty quickly. .... On my V-twins if the oil was at the proper level ( when hot ) and I checked it COLD it would not register on the stick ..... I think it's possible that you have too much oil in the transmission .... On such a low mileage engine I don't think this is a Gear Position Sensor as just reported on a different thread ...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
If I understand correctly, the shifter linkage is all ok mechanically, but it doesn’t operate at all when you give the machine a shift command - either with the paddle shifter or an auto shift? No movement at all?

So, the two quickest and least expensive things to check would be a loss of electrical power and a loss of hydraulic pressure.

Check the square J Case fuse number 3 in the right side fuse box. Remove it and test it, don’t just do a visual. There are other fuses related to the TCM, but you would have other stuff not working, also. But, check your manual and check them if you want. Pull the cap off the HCM filter and inspect. They have been installed backwards, but you would not have gone 1400 miles that way. But you do need to have the correct filter for your cap. Long cap, long filter. Short cap, short filter. Replace if questionable. There’s also a screen on the suction line from the oil tank to the HCM. But because this happened suddenly, I’m not leaning that direction.

Your 2013 RT was parked after 45 miles. Then you rescued it. I think the oil filter revision was all done by 2013 but I'll send you some links for documents you might be interested in.

P.S. Too much oil causing this? I’m not there.

P.P.S. Unrelated, but has that Spyder had the recall performed?
 
Thank you Doug for the ideas.
The last time autoshift was activated was when we were approaching that traffic, It was normal downshift, no clunky or noises.
I check all the fuses, big and small, on both fuse boxes and everything is Okay, no burnout fuses. I swapped the fuses around if they have the same amperage just to try. I also removed most relays and swapped them around to see if it makes a difference. No luck there. I look the best I could to see if the wiring for from TCU to HCM is damaged or not. Everything there seems to be Okay too.
And Yes the Spyder had the air scoop/ventilation recall done last September.
Yesterday when we were out riding, the weather was really nice, low 70's with a little breeze. so the Spyder was not overheated at all.
I have seen that diagram that you sent me the link, but I have no way to troubleshoot the unit.
Again, thanks.
 
Call Jason over at Young Powersports in Bountiful. Maybe he can help you out. My experience has been that if it doesn't shift it is the little pot metal shifter arm that is stripping out. If the linkage bar doesn't cycle when you press the shifter paddles, it is usually the handlebar controlar.
 
Update,
After searching high and low, there was no obvious sign of linkage problem and no other error code to be read from the display panel. The engine oil was a bit over half way on the dipstick. The battery was fully charged.
I called two dealerships here in Salt Lake valley, one told me to bring the Spyder in and leave it there but they won't have time to look at it until end of July; the other dealer can make an appointment end of July but recommend to bring the Spyder in two weeks prior the appointment.
Young Powersports in Bountiful was the last one I called and they told me to bring it in Wednesday 6/16. I had the Spyder in their shop that day, took them few day to get to it and a week later they texted saying that their tech hooked up a laptop to it and reset the transmission and had the bike relearn the gears. Went pick it up and everything is fine now. Damn computers.
They said that they do not know what caused the problem, charged me the diag fee of $139. I will put some miles on it this weekend to see.
So far so good.
Cheers!
 
The thing that gets to me both good and bad about these machines is the advanced computerization. We as owners are generally advanced in age and are limited in our capacity to realize the interactions between these electrical systems as a whole in their effects. We tend to analyze from a perspective that can hinder our initial troubleshooting queries as many of us were not raised with computers. It can be exasperating and lead to expensive and time consuming attempts. The one thing I can say is without this forum and the ability to communicate our angst I would be much more likely to unload this rather complex machine . I love to tinker but I also love to ride...and I'm cheap...and unfortunately not savvy with computers to the degree that is required....really appreciate all responses in this forum.
 
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