Ryker Spark Plug Upgrade

[BajaRon]

A few customers have said they struggled with the front cylinder spark plug on the 900. It really isn't that difficult. But it is frustrating knowing that if that frame cross member were moved just slightly rearward. Or, just put a depression or flat spot above the coil would have done the trick. It is an unnecessary aggravation. But still, it's not all that bad. And, as mentioned, it goes back in easier than it came out. The rear 2 plugs are very easy. Do those first and it will give you a better idea of what is required with the front one.

 

[canamryder]

A few customers have said they struggled with the front cylinder spark plug on the 900. It really isn't that difficult. But it is frustrating knowing that if that frame cross member were moved just slightly rearward. Or, just put a depression or flat spot above the coil would have done the trick. It is an unnecessary aggravation. But still, it's not all that bad. And, as mentioned, it goes back in easier than it came out. The rear 2 plugs are very easy. Do those first and it will give you a better idea of what is required with the front one.

As I was fighting this problem it did cross my mind to create a flat spot on that cross member. I only have a flat file that was too fine for the job. Maybe if I had a Dremel I would have done it. But consequences?:wrong: And didn't know it was a solid piece or not.
Some Rykers may have a little more clearance at this area due to dimension stack up of all parts assembled leading to this area. As if maybe all/most parts are on the plus side of dimensional tolerance it would be a no go (like mine) If parts are on minus side of tolerance may a go but tight fit. Sorry about trying to be a Techno Weenie. Raising the clam shell does take more time but less frustrating. Just plan on doing this job when it's raining anyway. (nothing better to do)

 

[Tslepebull]

I put a set of Ron's iridium plugs in my rally last month. I did remove the Frunk to provide access and unclipped the ignition wire from each stick coil before removal. However, I do not remember the front plug being particularly problematic. Mine is an early 2019 model; maybe I just got lucky.

 

[canamryder]

Is the luck in the Draw?

I put a set of Ron's iridium plugs in my rally last month. I did remove the Frunk to provide access and unclipped the ignition wire from each stick coil before removal. However, I do not remember the front plug being particularly problematic. Mine is an early 2019 model; maybe I just got lucky.

I think you're just lucky. Go by some Lotto tickets. My Ryker was purchased mid July 2019, but the build date was 10/18. I did get lucky with the original wheel nuts though. Maybe there is something to my theory on dimensional stack up. Was yours built on 1st or 2nd shift?........:joke:
BTW I originally claimed 40mpg with new plugs after an 80 mile ride the other day. Today I did 128 miles, with a higher speed for 17 miles on highway. I finished with 39 mpg avg. I think that's more reasonable, compared to my 37.5 mpg avg. before the upgraded plugs were installed. Used ECO mode on both rides.

 

[Tslepebull]

I think you're just lucky. Go by some Lotto tickets. My Ryker was purchased mid July 2019, but the build date was 10/18. I did get lucky with the original wheel nuts though. Maybe there is something to my theory on dimensional stack up. Was yours built on 1st or 2nd shift?........:joke:
BTW I originally claimed 40mpg with new plugs after an 80 mile ride the other day. Today I did 128 miles, with a higher speed for 17 miles on highway. I finished with 39 mpg avg. I think that's more reasonable, compared to my 37.5 mpg avg. before the upgraded plugs were installed. Used ECO mode on both rides.

Mine was likely produced around the same time yours was because I purchased on Jan 9, 2019. I am still not seeing the fuel mileage you are getting (I wish I was) but I did get 34 mpg on my last run. Most of my riding is 55-75 mph and that may explain some of the difference.

 

[BajaRon]

As I was fighting this problem it did cross my mind to create a flat spot on that cross member. I only have a flat file that was too fine for the job. Maybe if I had a Dremel I would have done it. But consequences?:wrong: And didn't know it was a solid piece or not.
Some Rykers may have a little more clearance at this area due to dimension stack up of all parts assembled leading to this area. As if maybe all/most parts are on the plus side of dimensional tolerance it would be a no go (like mine) If parts are on minus side of tolerance may a go but tight fit. Sorry about trying to be a Techno Weenie. Raising the clam shell does take more time but less frustrating. Just plan on doing this job when it's raining anyway. (nothing better to do)

I was thinking the same thing when you were describing how bad your issue was. Any change at all in the wrong direction would have made my front plug impossible to change. So I can see your situation happening.

The frame member is mild steel tubing. So you would likely go through the the wall to get enough space to remove the coil. I am not sure it would really compromise integrity enough to be a concern. These frames are usually over-engineered for strength. This, being just a cross member might safely be slightly compromised. I would be willing to do it, if necessary. But I want to be clear that I am not advocating this as a solution. Just thinking out loud for work-a-rounds. Other options should be tried first. It is very important that we NOT create a new problem in our efforts to solve an existing problem. Been there, done that! :yikes:

Since I am sure the engine is rubber mounted. I am wondering if prying a bit in the right location might move the engine forward, and or tilt it forward enough to manage the extraction? It would not take much. I know there are other automotive situations (like my Chevy Venture), where they recommended prying the engine forward to access the rear bank of spark plugs. Awesome engineering that!

I am sure Can-Am installs this motor into the frame completely assembled. So they don't encounter any issue in this regard. Making a 'Dimension Stack' as you describe, very possible. They would never notice it in production. Surely, moving that cross member rearward 1/4" or so would not create any new issues. And it would certainly fix this one. I hope Can-Am is taking notice.

 

[SportsterDoc]

No issue changing spark plugs on my 2020

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...0-Removing-glove-box-and-changing-spark-plugs

The plug change was primarily for longevity...perhaps 50,000 miles on the iridium, based upon Ryker cruising RPMs double of most vehicles which expect 100,000 from iridium spark plugs.

I have not yet refueled after 100+ mile ride today, but overall MPG gained from ride, even on the Interstate at 80 MPH.

Probably better than 34 MPG.

Pulling grades at 7,000 to 8,500 feet (~25% HP loss from 2,200 feet at home) seemed stronger. Too subjective for a real evaluation, but same location as traveled several times now. Ambient and humidity close to same as previous.

What I did notice was the rear end breaking loose when opening throttle at 40 MPH in normal mode at 2,200 feet elevation.
Switched back to Eco mode and it did the same.

So, there may be some HP improvement.

Bottom line, is the plugs should not need replacement for probably 5 years.