I found it to be on some of the welds too View attachment 169532
Not going to beat you But. I have a 2013 NC700X paid $7000. for it. To this day no rust, all the plastic fit and finish is great. I have a Ryker 900ace ( also a 2016 F3T ) I think it's a great bike. So far the finish is good I have no complaints on the plastic at all. If thing start to rust and are to brake, it will go back to the dealer and let them work it out with BRP. $10,000. is still a lot of money to me.Hate to say this and I am sure I will get beat up for it, but when you buy a bike for 10 grand you are going to see things not so well done. Time and materials are money! That weld that was shown looks like some one had done a repair, no spatter removal no sand blasting and the paint looks like they used a spray bomb. To put a produce out for a lower price your are going to sacrifice some where along the line. Going from a nice powder coat to a enamel paint for instance! It happens sorry!!
I don't think the price point has anything to do with the picture of that crappy weld job. Looks more like a QC problem with BRP, the vendor or both. I'm sure BRP contracts out parts and that includes (welded assemblies) to vendors. This one slipped through the cracks for whatever reason. Personally, I'd return the bike to the dealer and ask that the "part" or bike be replaced.
What a weld looks like and how well it is bonded may not go hand-in-hand. I have seen beautiful welds with no penetration fall apart with a smack of a hammer. I have seen ugly welds that you tear metal before you break the weld, which is what should always happen. If that was on my Spyder in an inconspicuous place, I would not worry about it. If it affects the aesthetics because it is exposed, then I might complain. The dealer is not going to replace the part or the bike just because a weld is ugly to the customer. If you don't like it, then you should use your new knowledge to either inspect the welds more closely on your next purchase, or move onto another brand that satisfies your QC criteria better.
As far as rust goes, then that could be another story. I don't think BRP warrants anything on the paint like a car manufacturer does, so good luck with that too. As mentioned, I would ask the dealer to do something just to keep you as a customer, but if they are not bound by BRP warranty guidelines, they may not do anything. And, comparing Indiana bikes to Texas bikes is like apples and oranges. The roads in Indiana are white with salt residue, so if I would choose to ride during the winter months, I would wash it frequently (especially the undercarriage), just like getting your car washed more frequently and making sure you do an undercarriage wash too. Have you looked at the undercarriage in your car lately? I'll bet you find some surface rust if you look hard enough, and I'll bet you find some unattractive welds too.
Just my thoughts.![]()
What a weld looks like and how well it is bonded may not go hand-in-hand. I have seen beautiful welds with no penetration fall apart with a smack of a hammer. I have seen ugly welds that you tear metal before you break the weld, which is what should always happen. If that was on my Spyder in an inconspicuous place, I would not worry about it. If it affects the aesthetics because it is exposed, then I might complain. The dealer is not going to replace the part or the bike just because a weld is ugly to the customer. If you don't like it, then you should use your new knowledge to either inspect the welds more closely on your next purchase, or move onto another brand that satisfies your QC criteria better.
As far as rust goes, then that could be another story. I don't think BRP warrants anything on the paint like a car manufacturer does, so good luck with that too. As mentioned, I would ask the dealer to do something just to keep you as a customer, but if they are not bound by BRP warranty guidelines, they may not do anything. And, comparing Indiana bikes to Texas bikes is like apples and oranges. The roads in Indiana are white with salt residue, so if I would choose to ride during the winter months, I would wash it frequently (especially the undercarriage), just like getting your car washed more frequently and making sure you do an undercarriage wash too. Have you looked at the undercarriage in your car lately? I'll bet you find some surface rust if you look hard enough, and I'll bet you find some unattractive welds too.
Just my thoughts.![]()
this is what I was thinking I’ll clean them up with a drimel and then put a rust inhibitor on it and then I will get out my airbrush:agree:...… as an example with Radial tires, one that looks low may actually have the exact pressure the tire needs , looks can be deceiving. I know someone who welded on the Alaska pipeline. He said He saw - what looked like " perfect welds " -FAIL …. magnafluxing (?) " tests..... I weld and they aren't always perfect " looking ", but they survive TBH :roflblack: tests...….. Those paint issues are troubling tho …… IMHO sand them to make sure there is little or only slight rust , then use a rust inhibitor, ( quality type ) …. then paint to suit …… Mikehyea:
this is what I was thinking I’ll clean them up with a drimel and then put a rust inhibitor on it and then I will get out my airbrush
this is what I was thinking I’ll clean them up with a drimel and then put a rust inhibitor on it and then I will get out my airbrush
And then go ryding with a smile :thumbup: