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Ryker Oil?

Sarge707

Sarge707

Active member
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...MIwZfa-s3o4AIVm0oNCh2zRA9uEAQYAyABEgLSLfD_BwE No Not another oil thread BUT the Ryker does not have a wet sump where you need Jaso MA2 and it has a separate gear box and oil.
So I will use the Valvoline 5w40 MST that's rated for many High End sport cars. $6.99 a quart.
I have read using JASO MA2 in a engine that does NOT require it is counterproductive???
I have used the Valvoline MST in my (Now Sold) Spark 900cc and My New Sea Doo GTI-SE with the 900cc engine and they both run great!
Any thought from the Site "Oil Experts?"
 
Not an expert here, but looking for info as well. Is the issue that you'd go with Valvoline or other oil is that you find or are hoping to find the performance/wear better than the OEM oil?
 
Safe bet.....

As long as it meets the spec's in your manual your good to use any brand you like...full synthetic or blended....:thumbup:
 
From pg 98 of your operator's guide; use whatever oil you choose so long as it meets the specs.
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Not an 'Oil Expert'. But a studlier of such. And you make a great point!

The 1st thing that you have to consider is that BRP has reduced and consolidated the number and types of lubricants offered. This means that all the vehicles they sell must use a lubricant from this diminished selection. And while certainly adequate, it does not mean each prescribed lubricant is ideal for each vehicle. I suspect there are some compromises.

Obviously, engine only lubricants do not need to address either the crushing action of transmission gears nor the requirements of a wet clutch. Higher quality oils designed for engine only applications are able to use friction modifiers which cannot be used in a wet clutch application. Because an engine only oil is required to wear fewer hats, so to speak. It can be more specifically tailored to address a smaller number of issues. And therefore, I would suspect that an engine only lubricant would be superior to a lubricant designed to address conditions which do not exist.

I have posed this question to my Amsoil rep. I usually get great answers from Amsoil. I will share their response when it comes. This should be a generic answer, not necessarily connected to Amsoil products.

RykerOilRequire.jpg
 
Not an expert here but, car oil is for cars and motorcycle oil for motorcycles. I know this sounds too simple but there is more to it than just clutch and if or not the trans is one unit or not. IMO, For one thing, motorcycle oil, in general, works at a higher rpms and needs to have the proper additives. There are many good oil threads out there that will give you more info than you probably want or need. :chat: cueman
 
And I will continue to use Rotella 5W40 T6 as I have in all my bikes for the last umpteen years. Never a problem with wear or with clutch slip (on those with a wet clutch that shared engine oil). I've run to AK and back from Colorado/Arizona/Texas on one oil change on several bikes with no issues. YMMV (flame shield up.)
 
McRuss said:
And I will continue to use Rotella 5W40 T6 as I have in all my bikes for the last umpteen years. Never a problem with wear or with clutch slip (on those with a wet clutch that shared engine oil). I've run to AK and back from Colorado/Arizona/Texas on one oil change on several bikes with no issues. YMMV (flame shield up.)
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Did you use it in an SM5/SE5?
 
I'm not sure I buy into the whole "car oil vs. motorcycle oil" thing, at least where the transmission and clutch are not sharing lube. Car engines are smaller and revvier than they used to be, and turbos are another factor. If "car oil" meets the manufacturer's API or JASO standard... run it.
 
Zoot said:
I'm not sure I buy into the whole "car oil vs. motorcycle oil" thing, at least where the transmission and clutch are not sharing lube. Car engines are smaller and revvier than they used to be, and turbos are another factor. If "car oil" meets the manufacturer's API or JASO standard... run it.
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I think the real question here. And one that has yet to be answered. Is why would the oil used in a Ryker need to meet the manufacturer's JASO rating? Why would they spec. out a JASO rating at all? A rating that was specifically and solely developed for a wet clutch application?
 
cueman said:
So how do we find out the answer to this question? Anybody? :chat: cueman
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You're not going to get anything from BRP but the party line. Logic would come down on the side of being able to use any appropriate engine oil in the Ryker since after-all, it is nothing more than a 4 stroke engine. Not unlike many of the high output performance engines used in automobiles today. The real difference in motorcycle engines is not the engine. It is that the transmission and clutch also share the same lubricant. This makes a huge difference in what the oil must bring in capabilities. But capabilities that are wasted on the Ryker.

One of the main advantages that I see in an automotive engine oil are the friction modifiers which are death to a wet clutch environment. But nirvana to pistons, rings, bearings, cams, etc. in the engine. Why retain (expensive) capabilities that are not needed at the expense of capabilities that would improve lubrication?
 
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Well, I think Sarge707 in the 1st post is on to something. I think I should do some more research on similar car syn. oils like vstrommer asked about Mobil 1, and with BajaRon working on this issue, maybe we'll find a better oil for our Rykers. :chat: cueman
 
I used a certain oil brand of oil for close to 50 years. It keep getting more expressive and finally I had enough of it. I did some research on oil, and I agree with" forgot all the hype on the label"
All oil has certain standards if the oil meets or exceeds the standards required by the engine you are buying, go for it. I won't be spending any more money for oil than I need to. More important is to change it when scheduled.
 
I know this is an older thread, but it needs to be said: Don't use "Blended" oil. The last time I read about it there was no specific criteria for blended. This means an unscrupulous manufacturer could put one drop of synthetic in regular dino oil and it is "blended". Maybe they tightened it up through regulations, maybe there is a law on it now, but there wasn't the last time I read about it. caveat emptor.
 
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