We have a lot of tracks here in Aus with that centre hump shown in your pic asp125, and unless the hump is massively high, it's usually not too hard to ryde my Spyder on them! Unlike many, I don't avoid dirt or gravel on my Spyder, & neither do I avoid tracks like those you show (unless the hump in the middle is waaayyy too high, but few are, cos most cars tend to 'shave them down' enough for me anyway!
) altho I have replaced the placcy undertray that the factory fits, not with a bumpskid tho, they are fairly thick & project beyond the leading edges of the tupperware, & in some circumstance (that we do tend to see here reasonably often) will work to reduce the RT's already fairly low approach angle, so I went for a locally available alloy skid plate instead (from the same bloke who makes the replacement billet windscreen arms, Noboot. :2thumbs: ) The alloy skid plate fits neatly under the tupperware & protects the entire underside of the frunk & the leading edge of the cross member behind that, all without compromising the approach angle of the Spyder at all.
hyea:
Anyhoo, getting back to wheel placement.... The width of the front wheel track on my RT is a little less than that of most cars, so generally, if I line the inside of one front wheel up with one inside edge of the hump, my rear tire will track just on the other side of the hump, leaving the other front wheel to track on the other side of that wheel track, ie, just inside the outer edge of the same wheel track that the rear wheel is running in hard up against the edge of the hump. :clap:
So all it takes is a steady hand on the tiller & lining things up properly - you can even make that 'lining up' bit easier AND avoid the back jarring bumps that potholes can give you by standing up on the pegs/floorboards, which is something I can fairly readily do on my RT, but which may possibly be not quite so easy on an F3/Ryker due to the 'feet forward/sit on your tailbone/giving birth' ryding position! :shocked: But since Lamonster already makes a '3rd peg' for the F3's that you can use to stand up on, I think there might be a place in the future for something similar to go on the Rykers too! :thumbup: Bit harder to do, maybe, but where there's a requirement....
Oh, and so far I've managed to travel about 50k miles on my Spyder, with a fair bit of chip seal, gravel, & humped wheel track ryding included in that distance too, all without any issues with the belt! :thumbup:


Anyhoo, getting back to wheel placement.... The width of the front wheel track on my RT is a little less than that of most cars, so generally, if I line the inside of one front wheel up with one inside edge of the hump, my rear tire will track just on the other side of the hump, leaving the other front wheel to track on the other side of that wheel track, ie, just inside the outer edge of the same wheel track that the rear wheel is running in hard up against the edge of the hump. :clap:
So all it takes is a steady hand on the tiller & lining things up properly - you can even make that 'lining up' bit easier AND avoid the back jarring bumps that potholes can give you by standing up on the pegs/floorboards, which is something I can fairly readily do on my RT, but which may possibly be not quite so easy on an F3/Ryker due to the 'feet forward/sit on your tailbone/giving birth' ryding position! :shocked: But since Lamonster already makes a '3rd peg' for the F3's that you can use to stand up on, I think there might be a place in the future for something similar to go on the Rykers too! :thumbup: Bit harder to do, maybe, but where there's a requirement....

Oh, and so far I've managed to travel about 50k miles on my Spyder, with a fair bit of chip seal, gravel, & humped wheel track ryding included in that distance too, all without any issues with the belt! :thumbup:
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