run cable from frunk to dash

[wmh9680]

Good morning. I went to Cabela's and purchased solid stainless crappie something or other thingys and ran it to the drivers left wheel well and it works good. It's strong enuf the cable will never break. I would like to find some stronger barrel swivels though.

Is there anyway to disconnect the cable form the ignition and run it out the dash by the windshield (same with the cable for the seat)? Or as you can see I drilled a small hole in the lever and would like to run a new cable up behind the windshield. I have ran it up there but it has too many turns and puts to much stress on the cable. Is it hard to remove the black plastic with the 3 screws in pic top frunk? Also the center frame with the UPC on it I think is plastic or light weight metal and I could drill a hole in it to run the cable straight up. I could mount it on my acc bar behind the windshield. This way I could open the frunk while still sitting on the seat. I don't want to beat this to death but just trying to make it not noticeable but easy and strong enuf to never fail. Thanks, Mike

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

cable from ignition to dash

Good morning. I went to Cabela's and purchased solid stainless crappie something or other thingys and ran it to the drivers left wheel well and it works good. It's strong enuf the cable will never break. I would like to find some stronger barrel swivels though.

Is there anyway to disconnect the cable form the ignition and run it out the dash by the windshield (same with the cable for the seat)? Or as you can see I drilled a small hole in the lever and would like to run a new cable up behind the windshield. I have ran it up there but it has too many turns and puts to much stress on the cable. Is it hard to remove the black plastic with the 3 screws in pic top frunk? Also the center frame with the UPC on it I think is plastic or light weight metal and I could drill a hole in it to run the cable straight up. I could mount it on my acc bar behind the windshield. This way I could open the frunk while still sitting on the seat. I don't want to beat this to death but just trying to make it not noticeable but easy and strong enuf to never fail. Thanks, Mike

#1. on your currant set-up, where you have the Latch end cable attached ( to the arm ) is very close to the bolt holding the latch together ..... I drilled my hole at the far end of the Latch which increases the leverage Exponentially , my cable pull effort is almost non-existent, it's that easy ................ As to your idea of using the OEM cable by detaching it from the Ignition switch is EXCELLENT :clap::clap:..... I also thought of doing it that way until I looked at what was necessary to remove the Switch or gain access to it .......... My cable pull is so effort less I am sure you could run the wire ( 1/16th " coated from Home Depot, it's green ) under the Tupperware into a hole in the back wall of the rear trunk ..... just a thought on this ...... Mike :thumbup:

 

[wmh9680]

#1. on your currant set-up, where you have the Latch end cable attached ( to the arm ) is very close to the bolt holding the latch together ..... I drilled my hole at the far end of the Latch which increases the leverage Exponentially , my cable pull effort is almost non-existent, it's that easy ................ As to your idea of using the OEM cable by detaching it from the Ignition switch is EXCELLENT :clap::clap:..... I also thought of doing it that way until I looked at what was necessary to remove the Switch or gain access to it .......... My cable pull is so effort less I am sure you could run the wire ( 1/16th " coated from Home Depot, it's green ) under the Tupperware into a hole in the back wall of the rear trunk ..... just a thought on this ...... Mike :thumbup:

Is that hole you made on the same leg that the stock cable is hooked to, I did not think about that, good point. Unfortunately on the hole I drilled on the leg to the north/top there is no way to make the pull easier. What about running the cable up to the dash by the windshield. Thanks, Mike

 

[oldguyinTX]

#1. on your currant set-up, where you have the Latch end cable attached ( to the arm ) is very close to the bolt holding the latch together ..... I drilled my hole at the far end of the Latch which increases the leverage Exponentially , my cable pull effort is almost non-existent, it's that easy ................ As to your idea of using the OEM cable by detaching it from the Ignition switch is EXCELLENT :clap::clap:..... I also thought of doing it that way until I looked at what was necessary to remove the Switch or gain access to it .......... My cable pull is so effort less I am sure you could run the wire ( 1/16th " coated from Home Depot, it's green ) under the Tupperware into a hole in the back wall of the rear trunk ..... just a thought on this ...... Mike :thumbup:

Mike, by saying that you drilled your hole at the far end of the latch, would that be at the very to of the arm of his picture #3?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

ARM & HOLE

Mike, by saying that you drilled your hole at the far end of the latch, would that be at the very to of the arm of his picture #3?

His pic #3. doesn't show the entire arm .... only up to the bend ....there is 1.5 " of metal past that bend .... that's where I drilled my Hole and attached my cable .......... When I began Venturing this item I had made my own small crushable Ferrules .... It was too time consuming, so I bought some large dia. Steel POP Rivets ...removed the stem (?) and slid it onto my 1/16" wire cable and then crimped it in two places ..... That rivet is never coming off ( I tried using a vise to hold it ) ..... This is just an example of the Lever and the Fulcrum .... I read somewhere that if you had a long enough lever and used the Moon as the fulcrum ...you could move the planet Earth .... The pull on my cable is so light because using the other end of the Arm / Lever as the attachment point it follows the aforementioned example .... I tried three times to get a pic but they were too blurry ...... Hope this answers the question ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

EMERG. CABLE RELEASE

Is that hole you made on the same leg that the stock cable is hooked to, I did not think about that, good point. Unfortunately on the hole I drilled on the leg to the north/top there is no way to make the pull easier. What about running the cable up to the dash by the windshield. Thanks, Mike

#1.-Yes it is but it's hidden from view on your pic#3......... #2.- your Hole does not utilize the power available in a longer lever off a Fulcrum ....( see my post to " oldguyinCt " )

 

[wmh9680]

#1.-Yes it is but it's hidden from view on your pic#3......... #2.- your Hole does not utilize the power available in a longer lever off a Fulcrum ....( see my post to " oldguyinCt " )

I think your point of attachment was on the leg that I used going to the right, this hole was already there, it is above the hole the original cable uses. The hole I drilled was on the left with the wire going up to the windshield. I did manage to drill a hole going up to the windshield and ran my solid steel leader up to the accessory bar in front of the windshield. I'm just concerned about the barrel snap that I used to attach it to the leg. I'm trying to come up with something stronger. I have still left the wire going out to the left front wheel just in case. I really want to get this done as on Wed I'm having back surgery so I wont be ridin for a few weeks and I want a couple more good rides. Mike

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

This way I could open the frunk while still sitting on the seat.

You can do that now. Just push the key down and turn CCW. You don't even need to turn the motor off. But tell me, what's the value in opening the frunk while you're still on the seat? Or are you not able to get off and need someone else retrieve stuff from the frunk for you? Alternatively, you can still buy the electric frunk opener. Install it and add a switch on the dash somewhere.

 

[wmh9680]

You can do that now. Just push the key down and turn CCW. You don't even need to turn the motor off. But tell me, what's the value in opening the frunk while you're still on the seat? Or are you not able to get off and need someone else retrieve stuff from the frunk for you? Alternatively, you can still buy the electric frunk opener. Install it and add a switch on the dash somewhere.

After getting a key stuck in the ignition twice I want another way to open the trunk and seat. I want something that is not obvious so I want to be sitting on the bike to open the frunk. If I put the alternate access point somewhere where I have to get off the bike it would be obvious to anyone how to get into my frunk. Someone said it's not a good idea to have the ignition key be a multi function key and I agree. Sometimes I have had a bit of a hard time opening the seat or frunk with the key and maybe that's just me. I do not want to damage the ignition switch so I want to open both without the key. I was not aware that I did not have to shut the bike down to open either one, that's great to know, thanks. I have heard the electric frunk opener isn't too reliable, what does everyone think? Thanks, Mike

 

[wmh9680]

I'll take credit for espousing the anti- multi use of the Ignition switch thingy :roflblack: ........ and I believe BRP stopped making the elec. Frunk opener because of the reliability issues you mentioned ..... annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd having to carry a STICK so you can spend 20 minutes opening your Frunk if it gets stuck - - - well that makes no sense to me at all ..... put the pull wire on and be done with it ....... jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

I agree, I guess we need to have multiple ways to enter encase others fail. I love my Spyder though. Thanks, Mike

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I'll take credit for espousing the anti- multi use of the Ignition switch thingy :roflblack: ........ and I believe BRP stopped making the elec. Frunk opener because of the reliability issues you mentioned ..... annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd having to carry a STICK so you can spend 20 minutes opening your Frunk if it gets stuck - - - well that makes no sense to me at all ..... put the pull wire on and be done with it ....... jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

Interesting how experiences, and opinions formed therefrom, can be so different! I've never had a worry about the key breaking, but I did fiddle with both the frunk and seat latches to get them to operate easily and smoothly! The main reliability problem with the frunk actuator, I think, was the microswitch lever getting bent so the switch wouldn't work. I added one to my 2013 but when I got my 2014 I decided the key was plenty good enough. I've never missed the actuator. I think the reason BRP dropped it was the confusion with it being the same switch as the parking brake, the ease of using the key, and cost, not reliability reasons! A stick is no big deal to carry, but even so I don't. If I ever need one I'll find one somewhere. As to how long it takes to open the frunk you overstate it by a factor of 10, IMO! The frunk has never failed to open for me so why cobble up a solution for a problem that likely isn't going to happen?

I prefer to worry less and ride more!:yes:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

LOW TECH METHOD

Interesting how experiences, and opinions formed therefrom, can be so different! I've never had a worry about the key breaking, but I did fiddle with both the frunk and seat latches to get them to operate easily and smoothly! The main reliability problem with the frunk actuator, I think, was the microswitch lever getting bent so the switch wouldn't work. I added one to my 2013 but when I got my 2014 I decided the key was plenty good enough. I've never missed the actuator. I think the reason BRP dropped it was the confusion with it being the same switch as the parking brake, the ease of using the key, and cost, not reliability reasons! A stick is no big deal to carry, but even so I don't. If I ever need one I'll find one somewhere. As to how long it takes to open the frunk you overstate it by a factor of 10, IMO! The frunk has never failed to open for me so why cobble up a solution for a problem that likely isn't going to happen?

I prefer to worry less and ride more!:yes:

:yikes: ....Apparently my post offended YOU, I'm so very sorry ..... I'm removing it right now ....... Mike :thumbup:

 

[wmh9680]

I never worried about the key or ignition until I was 40 miles from home on a 3 day holiday weekend with the key stuck in the on position with the lights and ignition on and no one to call since it was Saturday afternoon. So I prefer to be proactive and share my experience and what I've learned and how to get past it. I truly aprreciate all the help and feedback the forum has given me now and in the past. Thanks, Mike

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

:yikes: ....Apparently my post offended YOU, I'm so very sorry ..... I'm removing it right now ....... Mike :thumbup:

No it did not. For crying out load, can't you ever read an opinion contrary to yours without taking it as an affront? You need to lighten up. My experiences aren't the same as your experiences. That does not mean either one of is more correct or more wrong than the other. Life is too short to live with the feeling everyone is out to get you, 'cause it just ain't so!

 

[wmh9680]

Well I got her all back together and the cable works from the windshield. It's a harder pull than from the wheel well but it does work.

Before I put the infamous mirrors back on I sprayed some white lithium grease on all the holes on the mirror and it seemed to go on easier. Hopefully they will come off easier next time also. I am looking at doing my own magnet thing for the mount. The price of the magic mirrors is kinda way up there for what it is, very poor oem design. I also have thought about using the super Velcro (like we have her in Illinois for our IPASS mount for the tollway) for the bottom 2 mounts. Hope everyone is ridin. Thanks again, Mike

 

[teninospyder]

just a comment on Frunk latchrelease.

Well I got her all back together and the cable works from the windshield. It's a harder pull than from the wheel well but it does work.

Before I put the infamous mirrors back on I sprayed some white lithium grease on all the holes on the mirror and it seemed to go on easier. Hopefully they will come off easier next time also. I am looking at doing my own magnet thing for the mount. The price of the magic mirrors is kinda way up there for what it is, very poor oem design. I also have thought about using the super Velcro (like we have her in Illinois for our IPASS mount for the tollway) for the bottom 2 mounts. Hope everyone is ridin. Thanks again, Mike

I looked at the activation arm and saw it is bent at 90 degrees with a pretty long downward side, so I just wrapped that end of my pull wire around the top side of that piece, just before the downward bend, twisted it tight, and ran it out the left side of the frunk lid - hidden up under the tip of the lid, which so far works fine. Pull is virtually straight line with what the activator does. Just what I did - and as they say "works for me" :yes: