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RTL Initial & now 2nd oil change analysis results

RealWing

Member
First oil/filter change on the RTL a few days ago at approx 5000 Km/3000 miles. All looks good except for some fuel dilution, which I don't like to see. I did take it for about a 15 min run before doing the oil change.
 

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If you read pg 115 of your operator's guide it tells you how long a ride you should take to get the engine to proper operating temperature. Fifteen minutes isn't going to do it, and the coolant temperature gauge has no relation to the operating temperature of the oil in the dry sump system. While Spyder riders might like short little spins for wind therapy, the 1330 ACE engine doesn't like them and the results show in oil analysis reports.
 
Could be a sticking injector, too many short trips, idling too long when cold or lugging the engine. Good to have an analysis. Sometimes a good incentive to change bad habits. Sometimes just a clue to look into possible hard part issues.
 
Thanks for the tips although 3% fuel in the oil is quite a lot and will see what the next oil change shows.
Jim
 
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2022 RTL 2nd oil change analysis

This the analysis of the 2nd oil change on my 2022 RTL.
Total mileage: 8593 Km (5370 miles)
Miles on oil: 3755 Km (2346 miles)
Oil: Amsoil 10w40 MCF
Of particular note/concern is that there is still fuel in my oil. 2.2% this time vs 3% at first oil change. I changed the oil immediately after an all day ride so there should be no fuel dilution on a well running engine.
The analysis noted the low viscosity due to dilution, but transmission shearing is also a likely contributor.
Jim
 

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Any lubricant will lose viscosity with fuel dilution. You really need to address that issue before it causes damage.
 
Any lubricant will lose viscosity with fuel dilution. You really need to address that issue before it causes damage.

I agree fuel dilution reduces viscosity. I'm not too worried about 2% but will not go too long between changes until I have more analysis data. (Being an engineer - I've got to have data!!!) Very few people get their oil analyzed, but there was a couple of people who did, and they also had fuel dilution. Maybe a characteristic of this engine? Maybe the fuel mapping is on the rich side?

I see that Amsoil now has the 5w40 motorcycle oil, but I'm going to stick with the 10w40 MCF.
 
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Hmm What types of riding habits? Short trips to store? Or 30 min or more? As mentioned shorter trips all the engine parts dont get warm enough to seal, primarily piston rings. Or the rings could be a bit sticky. Have you tried 3 or so tanks back to back with Seafoam in fuel? It will help decarbonize parts.
 
Ride more, worry less - as some bloke hereabouts often says. :cheers:

No oil analysis = no problem, as 99.9% of other owners know.
 
Hmm What types of riding habits? Short trips to store? Or 30 min or more? As mentioned shorter trips all the engine parts dont get warm enough to seal, primarily piston rings. Or the rings could be a bit sticky. Have you tried 3 or so tanks back to back with Seafoam in fuel? It will help decarbonize parts.

No short trips. Always longer than 30 min. Have not tried any additives yet
 
I'm not a believer in fuel or oil additives unless you are going to store the vehicle for the winter season.(Something like Stabil) If after a vehicle has been stored and it exhibits unusual running characteristics I might consider a shot of fuel cleaner but not on a routine basis.

Buy a quality oil and use fresh gasoline with the best additive package from the supplier and you are good to go.

Gasoline dilution of the oil is a concern and there is a way to check the rail pressure for a loss in pressure that could indicate a leaking injector. You might consider getting an on line copy of the shop manual.

Getting an oil analyis which most don't do is a good idea and I do a couple with each new engine to get a baseline. I haven't had one on my F3S yet but will on the next oil change. JMO
 
I'm not a believer in fuel or oil additives unless you are going to store the vehicle for the winter season.(Something like Stabil) If after a vehicle has been stored and it exhibits unusual running characteristics I might consider a shot of fuel cleaner but not on a routine basis.

Buy a quality oil and use fresh gasoline with the best additive package from the supplier and you are good to go.

Gasoline dilution of the oil is a concern and there is a way to check the rail pressure for a loss in pressure that could indicate a leaking injector. You might consider getting an on line copy of the shop manual.

Getting an oil analysis which most don't do is a good idea and I do a couple with each new engine to get a baseline. I haven't had one on my F3S yet but will on the next oil change. JMO

Hi Andy
I definitely agree about using good quality oil and gasoline. I always try to use a "Top Tier" gasoline (eg Shell) and always 91 octane.
I have the manual for the RTL and noted that I would need a special fuel hose adapter and maybe the compatible pressure gauge for several 100 dollars to test for fuel injector leakage, but we may have adapters in the shop to connect to the rail.
Jim
 
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