RT622 Wheel Bearings

[cptjam]

Bob, that’s the oil seal hanging up. Just tug. You gotta replace it anyway. Once the hub is off, use a Dremel tool On the race and cut in a groove. Use a hammer and chisel to remove. You can cut on each side, and remove that way. I used a drill to make a hole, and then put a punch in that, once. Again, worst case, beat it mercilessly, ruin it, and then pitch it! New ones are pretty cheap. Bearings and races and seals are available from bearing supply houses. 14848 CR seal and L44649 Timken bearing and races. Call if you need help.

 

[upsdoctor]

Thanks for the info. I spent some time in the garage earlier today and got the hubs off using a rubber mallet. One of the bearings is still on the axle, I was surprised that it separated from the hub so easily. A rubber seal (rear) came out of the other hub. The grease in both hubs looked like wet mud, tan in color. I didn't expect the grease to look like that. I am really glad I took the time to check the bearings. I have low mileage on the trailer and assumed they would be fine.

What type of grease should I use?

 

[trikermutha]

I used Synthetic bearing grease and installed bearing buddy. I have not taken them apart yet to see how well the bearing Buddy has worked out.

Take a close look at the trailer axles for rust more so the back side. If not cleaned up it will destroy a seal.

 

[cptjam]

Synthetic grease is fine. We also use bearing buddies

 

[upsdoctor]

Joe, I sent you a picture via email. I had a bit of scoring on the axle when I removed the inner bearing.

 

[cptjam]

Got it. It’s ok. Clean, polish, clean, put back together! Joe

 

[Cruzr Joe]

The HUBS on the 2010 RT-622 trailer were found to be not up to par because they lacked enough grease when installed, for every other year the hubs and grease appear to be fine, (i have changed several different year models).

Cruzr Joe

 

[PMK]

Our trailer had yucky grease too. Low miles with dealer replaced hubs, just prior to us buying it.

Pulled ours apart, all bearing cleaned and repacked. Installed Bearing Buddies and use Mobil 1 grease.

 

[PMK]

Joe, I sent you a picture via email. I had a bit of scoring on the axle when I removed the inner bearing.

Sadly, it seems the rolling components are Chinese. The scoring should easily polish out and may have been there a while. When you seize a wheel bearing, they pretty much fuse to the shaft.

 

[cptjam]

When they do, changing the swing arm is a big job. The body has to come off the frame. Grease those bearings!!!

 

[trikermutha]

Look at post 15 on this thread.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...Trailer-bearings&highlight=RT622+wheel+locked

Lots other information too.

 

[PW2013STL]

Finally got around to my yearly repack. Found a bad inner bearing and race. I use this to pull the races. I tighten the jaws so that the edge of the jaws bites into the race and hub edge and do a blow or two until the jaws spring inward. I then loosen them so as not to bit into the hub and pull away.

 

[Fireball1800]

I used a dremel tool with small grinding wheel to cut notches in the hub on 4 sides just enough to gain the edge on the bearing races on both sides of the hub. Future bearing race changes won't be a problem. On mine the casting was over the edges to the point where some of the bearing had actually rubbed it some. I just had purchased this unit and was unsure of the condition. The first things i noticed were the bearing cover was not seated. To the point of almost falling off. The cap was packed full of grease like it was the bearing buddy (it was not). Next thing i noticed was after taking cotter pin out, was really too tight. Like it was torqued down. Took some effort to get the nut to move. Next I noticed, the outer bearing race and bearing had signs of heat damage. Very minor discoloration. Most likely from over tight bearing. Next the middle shaft area had very little grease. Next came the rear bearing and seal. Used a deep socket and hydraulic press to remove the bearing and seal. It too had evidence of heat temperament. It did not have very much grease on the bearing. Like it came from factory that way. Did the same dremel notch on two of the sides on this as the other was actually below the race rim and I could catch with drift punch. After removing the race, the race looked fine other than the heat spots. Cleaned up the unit, degreased it, inspected the rest, and then used dremel to grind away some of the overcasting at the bearing race stops. just enough to clear the race edge. This will make future bearing race changes easy. Also did not want any part of the hub to come in contact with bearing. Following the user manual it states to torque the nut to 150 in lbs and rotate the wheel while seating the bearings. Then back off the nut till it freely rotates by hand, then hand tighten it back down till it stops, then tighten till hole lines up with pin. It also states to not fill the cavity between the bearings more than 20% full of grease. I just happen to have a new hub assembly from BRP from previous owner, and inspecting that, the inner (rear) bearing has very little grease packed into that bearing.. which leads me to believe that the new hubs are not greased very well. So i'll have to pull this seal and repack anyway.. The trailer tires are also over 10 years old and showing some dry rot so i'll be replacing those with some high speed radials. I also see one tire has a plug in it already.. So it is good to really check these things annually.