Rt vs ST for current RT owner

[BeachSpyder]

So here is my Dilemma: I have a gently modded 2011 RT Limited that I am relatively comfortable on. I just completed my first Iron Butt on it and was relatively comfortable. I still have some shake, rattle and roll in the front end, especially over 55 mph. I have the new BajaRon bar in the front, tires at 16 and 20, Ultimate Seat tall boy with backrest, NBV pegs with Spyder web pegs, a tow hitch and trailer, and other non performance mods. The bike has 5k miles on it.
Do I get the Elkas and be happy with the improvements I have made, or do I trade for a new st or rt? Will I see that much of a difference? I don't like to spend money, but I will to be comfortable.
All you Spyderlovers out there with personal experience on both bikes please chime in!

 

[Sarge707]

So here is my Dilemma: I have a gently modded 2011 RT Limited that I am relatively comfortable on. I just completed my first Iron Butt on it and was relatively comfortable. I still have some shake, rattle and roll in the front end, especially over 55 mph. I have the new BajaRon bar in the front, tires at 16 and 20, Ultimate Seat tall boy with backrest, NBV pegs with Spyder web pegs, a tow hitch and trailer, and other non performance mods. The bike has 5k miles on it.
Do I get the Elkas and be happy with the improvements I have made, or do I trade for a new st or rt? Will I see that much of a difference? I don't like to spend money, but I will to be comfortable.
All you Spyderlovers out there with personal experience on both bikes please chime in!

First 18-20 in front will help handling and you NEED at least 26 in the rear per the manual and 26-30 is recommended in the rear.
If that doesn,t help bring it to a competent dealer and get the allignment checked because my RT can be ridden "No Hands " on cruise control at 65-70 MPH with no problem?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

SHAKE...RATTLE...AND ROLL ??????

So here is my Dilemma: I have a gently modded 2011 RT Limited that I am relatively comfortable on. I just completed my first Iron Butt on it and was relatively comfortable. I still have some shake, rattle and roll in the front end, especially over 55 mph. I have the new BajaRon bar in the front, tires at 16 and 20, Ultimate Seat tall boy with backrest, NBV pegs with Spyder web pegs, a tow hitch and trailer, and other non performance mods. The bike has 5k miles on it.
Do I get the Elkas and be happy with the improvements I have made, or do I trade for a new st or rt? Will I see that much of a difference? I don't like to spend money, but I will to be comfortable.
All you Spyderlovers out there with personal experience on both bikes please chime in!

What you really need to do is get rid of the problem !!!!!!!.....first off I think 16 & 20 are a little low....try 20 & 23 , But before you do this get the front wheels balanced or put some "Ride-on in them" .....I think they are out of balance and this is causing your un-happiness with the front end performance.....Also if you have Ron's roll bar I am very surprised you are feeling "Roll" in the front end...And what kind of wear pattern are you seeing in the front tires ? ? ? .....Wear on the inside edges indicates an alignment problem, and this should be addressed........all IMHO...Mike....:thumbup:

 

[chris56]

first I would also check the balance of the frontwheels (every year!!) - RT=>ST ..could not test a ST till now .. but if I would take one it seems that I would need the rear airshock of the RT installed (should be possible ??) - on the front the Fox-shocks of the RSS - a rear case with a backrest for my wife ..and a lot of tapes around it, to give her a more sporty outfit ..

 

[Lamonster]

I had a shake on my RT that turned out to be a bad wheel. Then I picked up another shake about 20K into my front tires and it turned out to be the tires.

As far as trading in for a 2013 ST or RT that's a hard one. I guess it would depend on what you could get for your current RT. The other problem is you may be one of the unlucky ones that gets a 2013 with alinement issues. That's a fixable problem but would bum you out if you traded in only to have more handling issues. :dontknow:

 

[Bob Denman]

This is one of those decisions that only YOU can make... :shocked: Your 2011 is "gently modded"; I would think that means that you've personalized the bike to fit your individual tastes. Any new bike that you get won't have that, until you've dug back into the farkling bin and come out with a big smile again!
If you add Elkas to the front of your Bike at this time; it should certainly help tighten things up; IF there are no underlying mechanical issues... :yikes:
The 2013s (those that have their wheels nailed on nice and straight anyway..) do handle a whole lot better than our models do. There were also other tangible improvements made to the package; but is it enough to make you want to pop for the newer model?? :dontknow:

 

[ARtraveler]

I cannot add much to the above posters either. It sounds like a handling issue that can be fixed on the 2011. Tire pressure is the easiest to fix. I run 18 and 28 in the tires and have never had a handling issue with either my 2010 RT-S or the 2011 RT A & C.

A trade to a new 2013 ST would result in your losing some money, I am pretty sure. The guarantee that the new 2013 would solve the problem is still to be determined. I would recommend a good long test ride on the 2013 that you want to purchase to see if it is a problem solver for you.

Let us know how your situation works out.

 

[NancysToy]

Handling issues can be solved! They aren't always easy to find, and can have multiple causes, but there is nothing inherent in the 2010-2012 RTs that would make them "shake, rattle, and roll." Trading on a 2013 is not as guarantee that you might like the 2013 any better. I'd get hooked up with a determined and talented tech, or start looking for answers yourself, and cure the machine you have before you look further. Start with a careful and thorough inspection of the suspension bushings and componenets, including the shock bushings and the sway bar links and mounts. Do runout tests on the wheels, and check the tires for roundness, or even for hardness variations with a durometer. Have tire balance checked, and if necessary get new tires. If you are running Ride-On or balancing beads, consider the volume...or remove it altogether to eliminate that possibility. I'd experiment with tire pressures...yours are pretty low, and can cause vibrations and uneven tire wear which could result in shaking or thumping. Have the steering sensors checked for zero, and have the Spyder carefully aligned. There is an answer to your problems...it just needs to be discovered.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Yes, I know I'm not adding anything new, but let me reiterate what the others have said.

Shake rattle and roll is unacceptable.
Period.
Something is not right.
Can it be fixed by going to a new Spyder ?
Maybe, but the ST looks like a hybrid of the RT and RS.
In my view, you'd be taking a step down.
Better yet, get your RT up to snuff.

Oh, congratulations on your Iron Butt. Well done !
Well done indeed !