RT Vent Kit Installation Help

[Allen42]

Shame none of the smart guys here did not 3D print scoops that could snap on to existing oem honeycomb style grille, instead of cutting up the bodywork.

Another non invasive option would be to utilize the 3 position adjustable vents, and add a short deflector so that in full open position, those adjustable deflectors would force airflow down thru the honeycomb grilles. Far cheaper to modify the adjustable deflectors vs cutting the big hole in the bodypanel.

YES to both of these!

 

[Peter Aawen]

Post 34 doesn't have the mythical template that everyone is after, but does show how to mark your own cut lines. I'm hoping my kit comes with one, or might just put it on over the existing vent to see if that provides enough fresh air.

Others have done just that, and AFAIK, none of those have gone on to cut panels - at least, none that I'm aware of have reported doing so here...

 

[Allen42]

Ok, it was only 89 today so I took the bike out at about 5:00 with the sun still beating down and came back at twilight and and have proven to myself two things: The direct sunlight makes a huge difference and is responsible for most of the “too hot” experiences in the dash and glovebox area.

However, even out of the sunlight on the ride home, there is very hot air coming up through the gaps between the panel and the handlebar/switches area. And the bottom speaker grills or vents have very hot air pouring up through them, even at 75mph. The glovebox is also still quite warm even after dark, especially at the bottom. I will inspect its insulation as much as I can when I get the plastic off next.

So if I only rode < 90 F, I think no mods would be needed. But since that excludes 3-4 months here, I’m going to try the vents and extra insulation.

(I was going to take actual surface temp readings but my infrared thermometer has broken. Replacement on the way.)

 

[PMK]

Ok, it was only 89 today so I took the bike out at about 5:00 with the sun still beating down and came back at twilight and and have proven to myself two things: The direct sunlight makes a huge difference and is responsible for most of the “too hot” experiences in the dash and glovebox area.

However, even out of the sunlight on the ride home, there is very hot air coming up through the gaps between the panel and the handlebar/switches area. And the bottom speaker grills or vents have very hot air pouring up through them, even at 75mph. The glovebox is also still quite warm even after dark, especially at the bottom. I will inspect its insulation as much as I can when I get the plastic off next.

So if I only rode < 90 F, I think no mods would be needed. But since that excludes 3-4 months here, I’m going to try the vents and extra insulation.

(I was going to take actual surface temp readings but my infrared thermometer has broken. Replacement on the way.)

Your informal test validates how the acoustic panels not only serves to offer up a quieter experience from the engine, but also serves as a form to double insulate the exterior bodypanels from engine heat, and airflow leakage from the bodypanel seams.

Myself, I never understood BRPs logic of complete removal of the acoustic panels. The heat barrier of those acoustic panels and secondary foam insulation bonded to the acoustic panel even further insulates heat from the exterior bodypanels and rider / passenger.

Yes, installing the scoops will improve the airflow behind the bodypanels, provided there is forward motion, at adequate speed to sustain that airflow. When that airflow into the scoop is diminished, the heat and airflow behind the bodypanels becomes stagnant, ultimately heating those bodypanels the rider touches.

While obvious heat rises. This heat rising, while semi trapped behind the bodypanels, will search for any exit as it heats all surfaces. The heated air can only be forced downward, if the scoops are functioning via airflow from forward motion.

If you want a cooler experience, properly insulating the backside of all the applicable bodypanels is how to achieve less heat passed to the rider. Unfortunately, the heat barrier products, best suited for the task are expensive.

In a previous reply, you mentioned reading about someone having replaced the oem inexpensive foam that had deteriorated. I suspect that was me, as much of the bodypanels and acoustic panels on our Spyder are lined with an exotic and expensive self adhesive insulation we use to insulate aircraft fuselages from the extreme heat and cold at altitude.
So between the double barrier of the oem acoustic panel, and bodypanels, along with exotic insulation, radiant heat from the Spyder is a non issue, the true challenge now is the SoFlo sun trying to cook a person like a Thanksgiving turkey.

FWIW, when we ride, regardless of ambient temps, the gear worn is a full coverage Shoei helmet, long pants, BRP mesh jacket over a shirt, full fingered gloves, socks, and shoes. That alone can get hot, I can only imagine how much worse it would be if the bodypanels added more heat.

Will offer up something I sometimes do. If we stop for a short time, and the Spyder is shut down, there are times when the rising heat will get the Corbin seat a bit warm. Once remounted and moving, our fuel filler access door in the seat, which faces forward, I will open that, as if a ram air scoop, and within a minute, the actual seat temp is restored to a comfy level. This does not happen often, but is a huge benefit when needed.

 

[Allen42]

Done!! I did a hybrid sort of install. I removed my existing grills but made no cuts.

Shout out to the instructions sent, I forget by whom. The dental pick to mark the one angle screw hole was huge.

My steps in summary:
1. Used goo-gone to get the sticky off the new shiny front trim that comes in sticky plastic. Then used Dawn to wash the goo gone off.
2. I followed the recall steps, skipping anything about cutting.
3. I used the bolt and nut as to hold it in place then my hand to snug the rest while I marked then drilled all my holes, using a thin awl and dental pick. I used a 1/16 as a pilot hole, then the 13/64 as per instructions. (This was the first “no going back” mod I’ve done… was a little nervous!
4. Then, again deviating from the recall instructions, I completely assembled the unit before attaching it to the bike. Otherwise not cutting the bike panel prevents putting some of the assembly screws in to put the unit together.
5. Then screwed the unit onto the panel.
6. Reassemble bike, bitch about how hard the left hand side bottom curved posts are to get back in.
7. Wax the new parts to get them shiny and protected.

Pics:
one side on, one side OEM, for those that want to compare the difference
Both sides on
Side view
Rear view
More leftover oem parts for my collection.

 

[ned64]

Allen, you did a good job of adding the vents to your Spyder. They look nice, good job you did.

 

[Allen42]

I am happy to report adding the intake vents is mission accomplished! I started a ride today at about 5:30 today at 90 degrees. Zero warm air coming up through speaker vents or openings between panels. In fact I think there is some suction perhaps. Glove box not even a little warm! As a final test I need to getting overhead sun at 95+ again, but I am very pleased with this mod.

 

[Harleyman1000]

Does anyone know if I can just buy the air scoops and support bracket? BRP and the dealers can't tell me what comes in the kit.

 

[Allen42]

Read my posts above. Yes, I found the scoop kit in stock at a dealer. Part #219800388
Depending on your year, you may not have the acoustic panel to replace with the bracket. My 2019 did not.

 

[Harleyman1000]

Do you have the instructions and template you could email me?

 

[fatboy]

can you make your own template now that you have the vents cardboard works

 

[Eckhard]

Do you have the instructions and template you could email me?

Yes I do. PM me with your email and I send you the details.