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RT shifting issue
- Thread starter gorchris1
- Start date
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Sounds like a check the oil situation. Give that a try and I bet you will have your problem solved.
Just changed the oil 3 weeks ago and i check it often. Level was checked on a level surface after warmed up.
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ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
Sorry to hear that. Its a good thing when all you have to do is add an ounce or two of oil to solve a tranny issue. Sounds like you are going to be on Plan B. Let us know what you find out.
MouthPiece
Banged Up Member
I'm gonna ask this with all due respect because I find myself doing this sometimes and I experience the same as you. Sometimes when I'm in a hurry, I don't let it warm up enough, and I take off with it (well let's just say not warm). Because of that I usually will not allow the engine to rev up it's RPM's, but I will still try to shift. What I'm saying is that I'm trying to shift from first into second with low RPM's and the semi won't let you do it. I'm not saying this is your case, but it has happened to me.
Chris
Chris
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
I don't warm up the :spyder2: before driving off. My :ani29: is parked in a heated garage--temp set at about 52 degrees. My usual routine is mount the :spyder2:, turn it on and back out of garage. While waiting for garage door to close, I fiddle with my helmet. I back out of my driveway and head for the first stop sign--about two blocks down the road. This is a first gear run as I do not exced 25-30 mph. The first two shifts-N to R, and R to 1 always seem to have that loud "klunk" sound. A couple miles and the noise goes away.
I was told by the local garage that works on spyders not to run full synthetic. He said if you start out using it, thats fine. If you dont, just use the blend. This is why the oil kits are only blend. Factory decision.
Rpm's are up there. Im an old sport bike rider. We tend to like the noise of the higher band. :2thumbs: Yesterday i went to the store to pick up a couple things. Maybe 10 minutes in the store. The engine should still be pretty toasty after 10 minutes but ill say apperently not enough. It happened again when i left the parking lot.
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
If you have not changed to the new, longer tranny oil filter, you should do so.
Be sure you are running the correct viscosity and type of oil.
Make sure you change your oil at the recommended intervals...a fresh oil change may help.
If these conditions are being met and the Spyder still won't shift properly, see your dealer.
Be sure you are running the correct viscosity and type of oil.
Make sure you change your oil at the recommended intervals...a fresh oil change may help.
If these conditions are being met and the Spyder still won't shift properly, see your dealer.
When I changed the oil 3 weeks ago, I bought the whole kit which came with the bigger housings and filters. :thumbup:
Bob Ledford
New member
2011 RTL SE-5 shifter clink
You use the same engine start up drill that I use and have the same sounds and actions. But I know what causes it. It is the oil bath clutch discs. After they sit all night long the springs force the oil out from between the discs and the clutch plate linings grab a big grip that makes up our common "clunk noise."
i was wondering how many days the OP allowed it to sit?
what at is his ambient temperature for what he considers a cold start?
What oil did he use during the most recent change?
Every wet clutch bike I ever owned did the same drill of sticking or clunking! When I made the switch to Amsoil it got less noticeable thank the scientist's for synthetic oils.
You use the same engine start up drill that I use and have the same sounds and actions. But I know what causes it. It is the oil bath clutch discs. After they sit all night long the springs force the oil out from between the discs and the clutch plate linings grab a big grip that makes up our common "clunk noise."
i was wondering how many days the OP allowed it to sit?
what at is his ambient temperature for what he considers a cold start?
What oil did he use during the most recent change?
Every wet clutch bike I ever owned did the same drill of sticking or clunking! When I made the switch to Amsoil it got less noticeable thank the scientist's for synthetic oils.
It didn't make sense to me either. I always thought that full synthetic was better. I use it in my truck. This shop is an authorized can am dealer/shop and it is the main shop in my area.
Bob Denman
New member
BRP's semi-synthetic blend is fine... :thumbup:
But I would also suggest checking that oil level again... these bikes are pretty fussy about it. :shocked:
But I would also suggest checking that oil level again... these bikes are pretty fussy about it. :shocked:
BikerDoc
New member
how warm?? at full operating temperature I hope not just a drive way warm up??
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