RT-S Automatic Suspension Control and Schrader

[SilverSurfer]

Okay ...

Last Thursday I had my RT in the shop to do the 2010-6 bulletin on rear suspension re-calibration. What led me to have the inspection/re-calibration done was potential shock topping out if I pressed hard on the trunk. They performed the tech bulletin; I picked up the Spyder the same day and it seemed better. but when I rode home, I sensed the rear of the Spyder was 'low', plus my riding position now had me looking under the top edge of the windscreen (at its lowest position), where before I am always looking well over the top.

Yesterday I started the Spyder and let it run for a sec to get everything set. I turned off the Spyder and checked pressure on the Schrader valve. 7.6 pounds!!! This told me that perhaps the mechanic forgot to re-charge the schrader after the performing the steps in the bulletin. So, I re-charged the schrader to 30 pounds. I watched the bike rise up to its normal height. I then went out for a five hour ride. I got back to the house and measured the pressure on the shrader valve: 26 pounds. hmm. I don't want to say something's leaking because I know the ride sensors and other stuff may have caused the Spyder to bleed off some air pressure from the suspension ...

HOWEVER:

I'm a little mystified as to what's going on. The mystery now, is different than the mystery before. The suspension calibration seems to be working fine (no shock top-out). But since the calibration re-set (lengthened) the suspension's range of play, what is now revealed is that the air compressor for the ride control *may* ... and I repeat ... *may* have stopped working and I need to monitor the schrader valve pressure manually. This may have been what threw my calibration off. If the the ASC compressor stopped working, maybe the computer over-extended the suspension to pick up the slack? I dunno. When I get back from Maggie Valley ... looks like we're back into the shop.

 

[NancysToy]

The automatic version of the rear suspension does not have to be pre-charged. The pressure will vary depending on the load on the Spyder and the ride-height setting. After the service bulletin is performed, your Spyder should ride lower at the same setting as before. The ACS sensor was accidentally set too high at the factory for the earlier RTs, which resulted in topping out the shock.

To test the ACS, start the engine, put the Spyder in gear, and change the ride-height setting. The Spyder should rise and fall accordingly. The compressor will run when it raises, and you will hear the solenoid valve hiss when you lower the setting. You can also have another person measure the height, as an alternative. I like to measure to the bottom of the rear fender. If a passenger or cargo is added, the Spyder should respond to maintain the same ride-height as before.

If you have a significant leak, the compressor will run frequently. You can test for leakage at the Schrader valve. Check the pressure after you park, the check again in the morning or in a few days, without starting the engine during that period. The pressure should remain the same, or very nearly so.

 

[SilverSurfer]

This was my concern

Thanx Toy ...

Your statements echo what I thought. Problem is, when I start the bike, the bike doesn't raise or lower ... at least that I can note. I remember when the Spyder was newer, I would here the compressor "hiss ... hiss" frequently early on in the ride. I've not heard it do that for some time now, which is why I think it quit working. Is there a fuse or relay that I should check?

So last evening, I charged the schrader to 40. I'll check this evening to see if it is significantly discharged (indicating a leak). If no leak, I'll let-er back down to 30 (the test pressure) and leave it; then see what happens into the Maggie Valley Trip.

~ Surfer

 

[NancysToy]

The suspension doesn't start from low pressure each time, so it doesn't generally change much when you start the engine and put it in gear. It should change a little if you stand or sit, or if a passenger boards or dismounts (assuming the engine is still running and the Spyder is in gear). The best way to check is to have somebody else watch as you adjust it, or to have them take measurements.

 

[SilverSurfer]

The suspension doesn't start from low pressure each time, so it doesn't generally change much when you start the engine and put it in gear. It should change a little if you stand or sit, or if a passenger boards or dismounts (assuming the engine is still running and the Spyder is in gear). The best way to check is to have somebody else watch as you adjust it, or to have them take measurements.

Thanks, Toy ... I really appreciate your experience on this. It'd be nice to shake your hand down at Maggie Valley.

~ Surfer

 

[GeoffCee]

At the end of a two-up ride my missus goes and puts the kettle on while I open up the garage, start the Spyder up and ride her in. Only then do I hear the suspension hiss as it lets out some air now there is only one person on board where before there was two. That sound of escaping air has me smiling every time, but then I'm at an age where most things seem funny.

 

[Leslee]

2011 RT S rear suspension orange warning light

On our brand new 2011 RTS, we were getting an orange bar gauge when trying to adjust rear suspension while riding. We know of one other new owner with same bike who also has this problem. Ours has 613 miles. Dealer found that it is also losing pressure. Today BRP acknowledged there's a problem and a downloadable software fix. We don't have the bike back yet to test it, but thought I'd mention it.

 

[NancysToy]

On our brand new 2011 RTS, we were getting an orange bar gauge when trying to adjust rear suspension while riding. We know of one other new owner with same bike who also has this problem. Ours has 613 miles. Dealer found that it is also losing pressure. Today BRP acknowledged there's a problem and a downloadable software fix. We don't have the bike back yet to test it, but thought I'd mention it.

Yes, BRP has a Service Bulletin on this issue. The hign and low level limits were programmed with the same value at the factory. Your dealer can correct it quickly via BUDS.

 

[taggtr]

Mine quit working after I had some recall work done on my RT. Later the dealership found that the computer needed to be reset and recalibrated. This was overlooked when they did last recall work on it. Been working like a charm since then.