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RT Radiator Block off plate

Champagne

Member
If I Put the RT Radiator block off plate on without taken off the lower belly
pan will it over heat ? An if I take it off would it void my warranty ?
 
If I Put the RT Radiator block off plate on without taken off the lower belly
pan will it over heat ? An if I take it off would it void my warranty ?

It would likely over heat without removing the bottom panel. I could also see your warranty coming into question, not removing the bottom panel, but there are dealers who remove the left side panel after changing the oil.

It's always tough to say how a dealer or BRP could nit pic a mod.

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk 2
 
Any time you make a modification you run the risk of giving the manufacturer a reason to give you warranty problems.

That said, there are enough SpyderPops plates now installed that BRP would have raised the issue long before this.

Not removing the bottom panel invites heat problems as the hot air has to have someplace to exit. I'd say you are worse off not removing the panel than leaving it on to protect a warranty that has already been subject to question by the installation of the block off.
 
Removing the splashguard won't void the warranty unless for some unseen reason, something entered thru the opening and created damage. It has no purpose other than that reason right there.
 
Any time you make a modification you run the risk of giving the manufacturer a reason to give you warranty problems.

That said, there are enough SpyderPops plates now installed that BRP would have raised the issue long before this.

Not removing the bottom panel invites heat problems as the hot air has to have someplace to exit. I'd say you are worse off not removing the panel than leaving it on to protect a warranty that has already been subject to question by the installation of the block off.

That sir, is likely the most logical post I have ever read here. :thumbup:
 
Thanks every one I like cave man idea. But I also wonder about the drilling. About 30 1 inch holes
I think if you drill 33 1.3 inch holes you will be 100% ok and effectively be equivalent to having removed the splash pan. :yes:

Seriously I have the spyderpops block plate, and watched Harvey do the install and some of the plates were a xitch to get off and so he just cut out that particular corner. I took mine and kept it, so if I needed to reinstall I had the part.;)

Spyderfest2011Cuba125.jpg

here is someone else on the operating table @ spyderfest 2011:yes:
 
plate

when you make a modification you run the risk of giving the manufacturer a reason to give you warranty problems. :pray:
 
I've been fiddling with a temperature probe and ducting a bit lately.
Here's what I can tell you fer-sher:

Air that is hot (heated by the header pipes & engine) is not going to fall to the ground and exit through the missing bottom plate.
Hot air, even when being pushed with cooler air has a hard time falling.
Layers of air form in the engine compartment.
Hot on top, cooler on the bottom.

And probably there is something to be said for the hot air contained in this post .....
:agree:
 
I've been fiddling with a temperature probe and ducting a bit lately.
Here's what I can tell you fer-sher:

Air that is hot (heated by the header pipes & engine) is not going to fall to the ground and exit through the missing bottom plate.
Hot air, even when being pushed with cooler air has a hard time falling.
Layers of air form in the engine compartment.
Hot on top, cooler on the bottom.

And probably there is something to be said for the hot air contained in this post .....


:agree:
Basic thermodynamics 101.....hot air rises and cold air falls (due to density). Ever notice how hot your glove box gets?

Negative pressure venting (more exit pressure versus incoming pressure). The problem, as I see it, is the restriction or limitation on the exit pathway of the heated air away from the rider. While SpyderPops has some after market products to assist (and ceramic coating your exhaust system), I think a re-design by BRP is needed.
 
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