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RT Parking Brake, revisited

GaryTheBadger

New member
I've seen four owner-invented fixes for the parking brake cable that comes off the front pulley. Assuming this indicates a failure trend, has anyone yet contacted Carlo for an official BRP response, or received an "official position" from their local dealer? I'm happy to contact Carlo if no one else has yet.
 
I was told that the cable was out of adjustment and that's why it came off. I don't think it's a big issue.
 
parking brake

My wifes cable came off three times before I used the aluminum angle fix. but , every time it came off it the pulley over traveled attempting to tighten and bypassed the limit switch , when it returned it bent the arm on the switch. The last time it broke the arm off the limit and the dash continously flashed. our dealer replaced the limit along with the pulley. His answer was it came off because it was out of adjustment too! Until I showed him how it would try to kink when releasing , he now understands the distance to the cable holder is too great and needs a guard , if BRP is reading these posts the have to be aware they have a problem I have repaired two RTs myself, I agree they should address this .
 
Syclemom, thanks for the update. I still see a trend here that BRP needs to address.

Last Friday I re-installed the parking brake cable on an RT with 10k miles on it. I also adjusted the cable (took up the slack). Three days later it came off again (3rd time).

Yesterday while installing accessories on a new identical RT with only 73 miles on it, I noticed the parking brake activation was much faster...the cable "stroke" was much shorter than the 10k mile RT. This tells me that, even after adjustment, the 10k bike cable still has too much stretch in it, allowing it to pop off the front pulley.

Rather than install one of the various inventive fixes posted on SpyderLovers, I advised the 10k mile Spyder owner to take his bike to his dealer, as its still under warranty. BRP needs to know this is happening.
 
Syclemom, thanks for the update. I still see a trend here that BRP needs to address.

Last Friday I re-installed the parking brake cable on an RT with 10k miles on it. I also adjusted the cable (took up the slack). Three days later it came off again (3rd time).

Yesterday while installing accessories on a new identical RT with only 73 miles on it, I noticed the parking brake activation was much faster...the cable "stroke" was much shorter than the 10k mile RT. This tells me that, even after adjustment, the 10k bike cable still has too much stretch in it, allowing it to pop off the front pulley.

Rather than install one of the various inventive fixes posted on SpyderLovers, I advised the 10k mile Spyder owner to take his bike to his dealer, as its still under warranty. BRP needs to know this is happening.
The stroke as you call it is determined by where the pulley is on the splines. You can clock the pulley on the caliper to make the stroke shorter.
 
I should have been more clear when I said I took up the slack. I turned the brake mechanism on the rear spline and I adjusted the cable with the locking nuts at the rear.
 
Parking Brake Failure

I've seen four owner-invented fixes for the parking brake cable that comes off the front pulley. Assuming this indicates a failure trend, has anyone yet contacted Carlo for an official BRP response, or received an "official position" from their local dealer? I'm happy to contact Carlo if no one else has yet.
I HAD the parking break failure and it occurred several times when I was on my X-country trip last summer:mad:. In CA the Dealer said that the cable was dirty, cleaned it, and sent me on my way. Next day it popped off again:gaah:. On my way back to Ohio I stopped by the BRP Spyder event in Chicago and had the BRP dude take a look. He said that the cable was out of adjustment and re-adjusted it. On my way home to Ohio, it crapped out again.:gaah::gaah::mad:
After I got back to Ohio I tried a modified Lamonster fix but that didn't work either. :mad:
The fix that DID work was as follows...I noted the point on the big(front) pulley where the cable leaves the pulley when the brake is not engaged. I then drilled a small hole in the pulley at that point (just below the groove where the cable sets). I took a piece of wire, fed it thru the hole, up over the cable and twist-tied it to itself. This has been a wonderful fix:2thumbs: (If I do say so myself) and It has not crapped out since (about 5000 miles). I posted some pics of the original problem and my modified Lamonster fix but I didn't post a pic of the final fix. I'll do that ASAP when I have the tupperwear off. The only problem is that I have to tell the Dealer not to F:cus:k with it each time I bring it in for maintenance.:dontknow:
 
Parking Brake

On my wifes RTs SM, I used a short piece of 3/4" alum. angle I had scrap piece of and bolted parallel above the cable where it leaves the pulley as to not allow the cable to flex up and unlatch, fixed, about a month later also took the piece I had left and fixed our friends RTs SE because it came off at our house, and would not shut up that beeper, it has not came off again.
 
Yesterday took my 2010RTSE5 to dealership to get parking brake fixed. Yep it was the pulley...dang hope my "fix" is more permanent than what I read here. I am 4 hr (1 way) ride to dealership and 4/13 I take off for cross country destination of Spyderfest. Guess I better locate dealerships in case my fix doesn't last...seems like another BRP permanent solution is needed.
Have a great day ryding...
 
This is still working great for me.
picture.php
 
I ve never had a problem with the parking brake(knockonwood) but..

After looking at Lamonts pic, seems to me what would make this cable slip off would be the bracket where the cable housing is attached to the frame is not lining up the cable with the pulley. It may need to be somehow adjusted to "aim" the cable more directly towards the center of the pulley instead of pointing it off towards one side of it. (the key word being "somehow")
 
RT -S parking brake

Is this the same you are discussing on the RT? I have electronic one and I can never tell if it is on or off till it starts to roll- bugger- it blinks and beeps but not as stated in manual-- please help someone-- mine is SE model.I am really afraid it is going to roll away -

Thanks, Joan Just starting to ride some- still having charging problems too- loose + connection but it will not snug up- the dealer is 1 1/2 hr away - looks like they may have left a spacer off--- wish I was a mechanic!!!!!! Lamonster I never got to call as I have been sick for several weeks- finally got out today!!!!
 
Heat Shield is the issue

I just had this problem, twice. Second time was about 30 seconds after putting it all back together after fixing it. :cus:

I think I identified the root cause of the cable flexing and disconnecting. I noticed the heat shield glued to the inside of the lower body panel had a dark grey discolored arc and some damage. Turns out the pin in the front pulley was rubbing on the heat shield, snagging and disconecting from the pulley.

Using the discoleration and damaged area as a guide I simply trimmed away a small amount of the heat shield with a razor knife so the cable does not snag any more.

Hopefully this will actually fix it. :2thumbs: I will post back if it does not.
 
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Trying Lamonsters fix

Well I guess I didn't remove enough heat shield because it is still snagging and discinnecting. Not willing to remove more so trying the angle bracket fix.
 
I had the same problem over the weekend. First time we just reconnected it. But when I used the brake the next day I got the brake failure light. The brake was working. So when I got back home we did a modified Bootie fix and also cut away the dented part of the heat shield. Instead of the twisted wire that Bootie used we used a zip tie.

I did have to take mine to the dealer though because we couldn't get the brake failure light to go off. They hooked it up to Buds and it went away.
 
I had a Parking Brake Fault this morning when I turned it on. I turned the brake off and on and it went away, but didn't feel like it put the brake on. Got to work this morning and it put the brake on (felt the lever come up). Everything seems fine now. Should I be worried??
 
I had the same problem over the weekend. First time we just reconnected it. But when I used the brake the next day I got the brake failure light. The brake was working. So when I got back home we did a modified Bootie fix and also cut away the dented part of the heat shield. Instead of the twisted wire that Bootie used we used a zip tie.

I did have to take mine to the dealer though because we couldn't get the brake failure light to go off. They hooked it up to Buds and it went away.

My light will not go out now either. :gaah: Guess I'll be making a trip to the dealer.
 
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