RT Mirrors..... ugh....

[sinkhole]

mirrors...

Interesting solution, but I can't have the end of a zip tie hanging out like that.

Always trim your tang.

 

[NancysToy]

My problem is definitely not a tire, as they vibrate even when stopped.

As I mentioned in the earlier post, the top main pin connection is snug, and most of the movement comes from the front lower spring clip. I could never get the two spring clips to maintain enough tension to eliminat movement there. A stiffer spring with a slightly larger diameter wire would probably cure all ills.

If you have that much vibration at idle, something else is wrong. I don't remember what year Spyder you have, but a 2010 may have torque rod interference with the motor mount plate and/or inadequate clearance to the frame. A 2011 can have inadequate frame clearance and newed to be shimmed. There are service bulletins for these issues. Most RT mirrors are clear and steady.

 

[sinkhole]

mirrors...

No tire balancing issues, lateral engine mount swaybar repaired and O.K., no clearance issues... just loose front pins on the mirrors. My RT is a 2010 and I've had the mirror problem since the beginning. All I know is that this fix cured my problem. :2thumbs:

 

[Bob Denman]

:gaah: Okay... I just knocked a mirror off the side of my bike... :yikes:
And I'm having just enough trouble getting the front to hook back in that I'm going blind! :shocked:
Can somebody talk me back through the installation process? pps:

 

[NancysToy]

First, make sure the mirror spring wires are straight and parallel. If they are bent inward they may not catch the post, and if they diverge or bend outward, the mirror will be loose. It can help to put a very tiny bit of lube on the outer, conical part of the post only. I'm talking about a film here, not a glob. Make sure there is none on the back side (post notch). Engage the keyhole slot first. Then rap downward firmly (but politely) on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the bottom latch. Now rap forward on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the front latch. You can rap a little harder than you can taking the mirrors off, because they won't fly across the room, but don't get carried away. Problems seating the latches are usually caused by bent spring wires.

 

[Bob Denman]

Got it! Seat the rears first and then give a smack forward! :thumbup:
You are Da Man!! :firstplace::bowdown::bowdown::2thumbs:

 

[Bob Denman]

:yes::yes: :2thumbs: :yes::yes:
Got it!
Your description of hanging it from the "keyhole" first, was what made it understandable... and possible!
Thanks a million! :thumbup:

 

[eddieshep999]

I got so sick and tired of mine vibrating, to the point where it was hard to tell the make of the car behind me, that I tried a few things.

First off I installed a small rubber o-ring in the grove on the top pin. This stiffened the main mounting point and did remove some of the vibrations. The main source of the vibrations comes from the fact that the spring clips are too soft, and deform easily. You can bend them back into shape, but when you install them again they deform just enough to allow the mirror to move slightly. The front attach point seems to be the main culprit.

Finally I decided that the only way I was going to tighten things up was to pull the lower front part of the housing tight against the tupperware. I drilled a small slot in the black portion of the mirror and the body flange just behind the mirror so that I could run a black ty-rap through the slots as I install the mirror. I then use the retainer end of a second ty-rap to tighten the mirror against the body panel. Once the mirror is secured, I cut the remaining tang off.View attachment 49077View attachment 49078View attachment 49079View attachment 49080

:-

I agree with this solution

Sinkhole I did the same thing - see :-

Spyder RT – Loose Mirrors My fix

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...s-Loose-My-fix