RT Mirrors..... ugh....

[Firefly]

Okay-- so today I tore the RT down for some mods and had to do the mirror removal. Scary... but kinda cool... until re-installing them and now they feel loose.

What's the best way to go about getting them tight again??? My left one can move 1/4" at the bottom.

Other than that my installs went pretty well. Replacing the front speakers just took time and patience..... but I got em' done.

 

[Jeriatric]

Okay-- so today I tore the RT down for some mods and had to do the mirror removal. Scary... but kinda cool... until re-installing them and now they feel loose.

What's the best way to go about getting them tight again??? My left one can move 1/4" at the bottom.

Other than that my installs went pretty well. Replacing the front speakers just took time and patience..... but I got em' done.

Most have some free play. Pop it off and see if the wire locking tabs appear to be seperated to much. If so close them up a little. :thumbup:

 

[Firefly]

Well, they don't seem to move while going down the road-- so I guess they're okay... just seems a little hokey to me...

 

[Jeriatric]

Well, they don't seem to move while going down the road-- so I guess they're okay... just seems a little hokey to me...

I found the mounting system both clever and amazing. Hanging them the way they did and then to have them not vibrate is pretty darn cool. I DETEST vibrating mirrors.

 

[SteveMac]

Well, they don't seem to move while going down the road-- so I guess they're okay... just seems a little hokey to me...

The mirror attachment system does leave a lot to be desired. That's for sure. I just ordered some new retaining clips for mine this week.

 

[NancysToy]

Easiest way to get them off without loosening them excessively is to rap backwards at the outside of the mirror with your hand, to pop the front spring, then do the same upward to release the bottom spring. Be careful or you can damage the keyhole fastener at the top/rear. Before reinstalling, be sure the spring wires are straight and parallel. Some light lubrication of the conical steel posts helps installation and keeps the springs straight longer. I would also recommend installing small zip-ties with the tails left intact on the wiring harnesses, behind the Spyder side of the connector. These will keep the harnesses from retreating back inside the Spyder when you are working with the mirrors off. Tuck them inside the grommets to install the mirrors. These mirror attachments are similar to those on many touring bikes. They work better than they look...once you get the hang of them.

 

[Arr MiHardies]

I find, I hold down on the inside top nearest the body to prevent me from lifting it too high to prevent breaking the slide mount, and lift on the outsiders pop them out of the clips. Works every time without issue for me,

 

[Bob Denman]

I think that it's one of those designes that just requires some faith... :bowdown: ray:

 

[GeoffCee]

I think that it's one of those designes that just requires some faith... :bowdown: ray:

Just so. My previous steed was a BMW R1150RT, which mounted its mirrors using 3 identical pillars going into 3 spring clips, and the Spyder has a similar design. You had to give the BMW mirrors a heavy slap to release them but that was no problem because they were strong enough to withstand any amount of rough treatment.

My guess is that the Spyder's design would be stronger and more easily managed if BRP hadn't incorporated a plastic break-away top mount. I don't know why they've been made like that but I'd be interested in hearing an explanation. :dontknow:

 

[Bob Denman]

Well I'll drink to that! :cheers: :thumbup: :roflblack:

 

[Firefly]

I have no problem getting them on and off-- works like a charm---- I'm just thinking they were not as loose before.....

I will say that somehow they manage NOT to vibrate.....:thumbup:

 

[cdavid]

The mirror setup remind me of my mirrors on my 2004 BMW R-1150 RT in a way.

 

[NancysToy]

The mirror setup remind me of my mirrors on my 2004 BMW R-1150 RT in a way.

Yep, very much like my R-1100RT.

 

[sinkhole]

RT mirrors...

I got so sick and tired of mine vibrating, to the point where it was hard to tell the make of the car behind me, that I tried a few things.

First off I installed a small rubber o-ring in the grove on the top pin. This stiffened the main mounting point and did remove some of the vibrations. The main source of the vibrations comes from the fact that the spring clips are too soft, and deform easily. You can bend them back into shape, but when you install them again they deform just enough to allow the mirror to move slightly. The front attach point seems to be the main culprit.

Finally I decided that the only way I was going to tighten things up was to pull the lower front part of the housing tight against the tupperware. I drilled a small slot in the black portion of the mirror and the body flange just behind the mirror so that I could run a black ty-rap through the slots as I install the mirror. I then use the retainer end of a second ty-rap to tighten the mirror against the body panel. Once the mirror is secured, I cut the remaining tang off.

 

[NancysToy]

I got so sick and tired of mine vibrating, to the point where it was hard to tell the make of the car behind me, that I tried a few things.

First off I installed a small rubber o-ring in the grove on the top pin. This stiffened the main mounting point and did remove some of the vibrations. The main source of the vibrations comes from the fact that the spring clips are too soft, and deform easily. You can bend them back into shape, but when you install them again they deform just enough to allow the mirror to move slightly. The front attach point seems to be the main culprit.

Finally I decided that the only way I was going to tighten things up was to pull the lower front part of the housing tight against the tupperware. I drilled a small slot in the black portion of the mirror and the body flange just behind the mirror so that I could run a black ty-rap through the slots as I install the mirror. I then use the retainer end of a second ty-rap to tighten the mirror against the body panel. Once the mirror is secured, I cut the remaining tang off.

I actually think the root of your vibrations lies elsewhere. Even when they have been very loose on the springs, the mirrors never vibrated on either of my RTs. On the other hand, if you had a vibration from a bad tire or something, it could show in the mirrors quickly.

 

[Firefly]

Interesting solution, but I can't have the end of a zip tie hanging out like that. Mine don't vibrate as of yet--- but I've only had it for a week and 1,000 miles.

 

[arntufun]

Problems already ????? :joke:

 

[Firefly]

Not problems---- just observations. ;-)

 

[AbNormy]

Grommet mount

Not problems---- just observations. ;-)

We took ours for the 3600 oil change to Albuquerque en route to Co, and they said it was missing a grommet when we got back to Austin the local dealer looked didn't see it missing but when I asked why the left mirror was loose they popped it off and on closer inspection found one of the plastic doohickeys in the mirror was broke and replaced it. I'm guessing they didn't have them in Albuquerque. But our local dealer Central Texas Powersports are fairly thorough and did.

 

[sinkhole]

mirrors...

I actually think the root of your vibrations lies elsewhere. Even when they have been very loose on the springs, the mirrors never vibrated on either of my RTs. On the other hand, if you had a vibration from a bad tire or something, it could show in the mirrors quickly.

My problem is definitely not a tire, as they vibrate even when stopped.

As I mentioned in the earlier post, the top main pin connection is snug, and most of the movement comes from the front lower spring clip. I could never get the two spring clips to maintain enough tension to eliminat movement there. A stiffer spring with a slightly larger diameter wire would probably cure all ills.