RT Limited Frunk Switch

[View from behind]

Looking for some information on how the switch in the Frunk is supposed to function. Plug that goes into the switch has a place for 3 leads two which appear to go to the switch itself and one that just goes into the plastic which locates above the switch. I'm assuming this switch operates the light in the Frunk which has never worked and possibly something on the display to indicate the Frunk is open? I used my meter to check the operation of the switch itself and it appears to not be working (open all the time regardless of position). Thanks in advance.

 

[Grandpot]

1. The frunk switch operates the frunk light if the ignition is turned on
2. If you have an electric release for the frunk latch, the frunk switch must be sensing the lid is closed before it will activate the solenoid.
3. There is no indication on the dash that the frunk is open. There is an indication if the rear trunk is open.

 

[View from behind]

Thank you for taking the time to respond. Does anyone know about the wiring?

 

[trikermutha]

One will be the common point the other two are NC and NO contact points.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

The common to NC completes the ground side of the frunk light circuit when the lid is opened. The NO contact completes the circuit to ground for the electric actuator when the lid is closed. The common tab is connected to ground. BRP dropped the electric opener beginning 2014 but left the harness the same. I believe the actuator kit is still available from the parts catalog.

 

[youngers]

BRP dropped the electric opener beginning 2014 but left the harness the same. <------- ( quote ) wonder why the stopped with the opener it is a handy application ...

 

[View from behind]

Sorry but I'm still confused. I have a connector with places for 3 wires and a switch with two legs. The connector only has two wires going to it, a black into the slot that is connected to nothing and a green/violet that is connected to one leg of the switch leaving the other leg with no wire going to it. Did they place the black wire in the wrong place?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Sorry but I'm still confused. I have a connector with places for 3 wires and a switch with two legs. The connector only has two wires going to it, a black into the slot that is connected to nothing and a green/violet that is connected to one leg of the switch leaving the other leg with no wire going to it. Did they place the black wire in the wrong place?

The black is the common, and the green/violet is the correct color wire that goes to the light. So you're on the right track. Both wires need to be connected to the switch. If you install a jumper between those two wires and turn on the key, the light will come on. Is it possible that the connector was installed upside down?

Just to backtrack a little, you mentioned that you used your meter to test the switch. So, you've got the connector unplugged from the back of the switch, there's ONLY two terminals anywhere on the switch, meter set for resistance (ohms), you're reading across the two terminals, and there's no change when you operate the switch arm?

 

[trikermutha]

Example-

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...4B496EAA37DFA7D94E7D4B496EAA37DF&&FORM=VDRVRV

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey VFB. So, I took a look at mine. There IS a terminal on the bottom of the switch where the black wire goes. It's covered by the plastic. Switch actuator at the top, common terminal on the bottom. Bottom line, there are three terminals on the switch. Those two terminals on the rear are for the NO and NC contacts. I have an extra wire back there because I have the electric frunk release. So, you won't get a reading between those two anyway. If your connector looks like mine, then it is put together correctly. Once you get the switch out of there and can remove the connector, you might find it is just a matter of cleaning things up. Otherwise, the OEM switch is about 15 bucks. Let's double check the connector isn't upside down. Black wire should be on the bottom.