RT aftermarket trailer hitch

[Texas2012]

Hello all,

I have a new 2012 RT-S

I have purchased an aftermarket trailer hitch. (there were severe delays in getting the OEM one) I also do NOT have the BRP trailer harness that connects and mounts to the saddlebag.

Can someone point me in the right direction to where the existing trailer "plug" is located on the Spyder? To clarify my question, I want to find where the factory harness would connect to, and create my own trailer harness without purchasing the BRP one..

Looking forward to participation here, and to riding the RT

 

[NancysToy]

There is no factory connection. The BRP trailer harness connects to the existing lighting harness, and utilizes a built-in trailer module to isolate it from the Spyder lighting system. The module has nowhere to tap in after the isolator, either. It uses a separate fuse for power. The power is fed off fuse F7, which also feeds the reverse actuator. It should be available in the rear in a 16 ga orange/violet wire that terminates in connector CIC2-H. It is likely you could power the trailer lights directly (using a 5-4 converter if need be), but very few owners have taken the chance. Isolated (separately powered) trailer converters are available. If you are going to rig your own wiring, I suggest you get a shop manual with a wiring diagram, and have someone very familiar with trailer wiring assist. Thorough testing is essential, to be sure you don't disable the Spyder lighting ystem or get warnings. The Spyder system is monitored via the CANBus.

As far as I know, the factory harness is not availble separately, BTW.

 

[Schnauzer]

I just removed the rear tupperware and tapped into all the wires that control each function for use on the trailer using. The trick for myself and a few others around me that did this was to use leds for the trailer, so not to have to much voltage draw, "Nanny" never noticed. Take the time to properly connect the wiring by soldiering and heatshrink. I feel the time saving clip connectors are more troulble in the long run.

 

[NancysToy]

Posi-Taps are another good alternative. I agree about the suitcase connectors...they are a liability.

 

[Texas2012]

I just removed the rear tupperware and tapped into all the wires that control each function for use on the trailer using. The trick for myself and a few others around me that did this was to use leds for the trailer, so not to have to much voltage draw, "Nanny" never noticed. Take the time to properly connect the wiring by soldiering and heatshrink. I feel the time saving clip connectors are more troulble in the long run.

This is exactly what I am wanting to do. My custom trailer has ALL LED lights so I seem to be on the right track there.

I agree with the soldering (I was a NAVY electronics technician for 8 years) and will certainly do that.

I was hoping there would be a "connector" there that I could tap into, but it appears that I will have to just identify each wire as you stated.

 

[NancysToy]

This is exactly what I am wanting to do. My custom trailer has ALL LED lights so I seem to be on the right track there.

I agree with the soldering (I was a NAVY electronics technician for 8 years) and will certainly do that.

I was hoping there would be a "connector" there that I could tap into, but it appears that I will have to just identify each wire as you stated.

You certainly should have all the skills you need to do this. If you use a 4-wire trailer, remember that you will need a converter from the 5-wire Spyder system. Your only other difficulty should be findind a suitable connector and a place for it. That is one of the reasons the Spyder Deutsch connector is so good. Their proprietary module is a bulkhead mount, the connector is watertight, and there is a watertight cap when not in use. Looking forward to seeing what you work out. I'm sure others could benefit from a "how-to" and some pics, if you want to do them.

 

[LorneD]

I just removed the rear tupperware and tapped into all the wires that control each function for use on the trailer using. The trick for myself and a few others around me that did this was to use leds for the trailer, so not to have to much voltage draw, "Nanny" never noticed. Take the time to properly connect the wiring by soldiering and heatshrink. I feel the time saving clip connectors are more troulble in the long run.

I did the same after the module failed after 15 minutes and the dealer would not replace it under warranty. So far I have 5000km on my Aluma MCT and would not trade it even-up for a BRP 622.

 

[Texas2012]

You certainly should have all the skills you need to do this. If you use a 4-wire trailer, remember that you will need a converter from the 5-wire Spyder system. Your only other difficulty should be findind a suitable connector and a place for it. That is one of the reasons the Spyder Deutsch connector is so good. Their proprietary module is a bulkhead mount, the connector is watertight, and there is a watertight cap when not in use. Looking forward to seeing what you work out. I'm sure others could benefit from a "how-to" and some pics, if you want to do them.

Thanks Scotty.. My trailer is 5 Pin, wired to be used with my Goldwing. So the 5 wire pattern should match up correctly.

Just need to figure out what plastic I need to remove to get to what I am doing.

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty.. My trailer is 5 Pin, wired to be used with my Goldwing. So the 5 wire pattern should match up correctly.

Just need to figure out what plastic I need to remove to get to what I am doing.

The factory module hooks up at the end of the main harness, under the left cover below the passenger grip. I think a better place would be in the rear, under the panel beneath the rear cargo compartment lid. Easier access to the necessary wires there. After the panel is off, removing the taillights would make it even easier.