RT 2013 Frunk Button and trunk pistons (?)

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

(forgot to quote):

Any tips on how to do it? I took a thin tool and tried to pry up but it didn't look like it was going to do it. There looks like there is a gasket under it. And I'm preety sure it has those plastic "snap wings" on the short edges. So in theory if you pushed the wing in it should slide up and out but I was unable to do that with a quick pass.

Go to this web site http://www.carlingtech.com/rocker-switches-sealed and scan through the pics there. That will give you a pretty good idea what the exterior of the switch looks like. I don't recall which series the Spyder switches are most likely part of. The switches on the Spyder are either Carling or a Carling knock-off. I think the Spyder switches have a double snap in wing. If I remember right you need to lift up one end first then the other end.

 

[trikermutha]

Have you tested the switch with a meter. May save you some aggravation only to find out its something else - Prying on a switch - Never!

 

[wd5gnr]

That's what I'm trying to do is get to the back of the switch without tearing the glove box down.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

That's what I'm trying to do is get to the back of the switch without tearing the glove box down.

Do you have the service manual for your RT? If not it would be worthwhile getting a copy. About $30 from canammanuals.com. The switch cluster has a short harness that connects all the switches. It connects to the main bike harness just under the left upper tupperware. The service manual will have the wiring diagram and connector pin IDs. You can test the switch with a meter at that point. That will be a lot easier than removing the glove box. The side panel has to come off to get to the glovebox so you're not doing anything extra.

The alternate choice though, I think, is to do like you're trying to do and remove the switch from above. It can be done, but it's not easy. The harness that plugs into the switch doesn't have any slack so getting the plug back onto the switch may be a challenge. You will have to unplug the harness from the switch to test it because there is no way you'll get meter leads to the tabs otherwise.

Have you tried powering the frunk lid release solenoid with another power source? I would try that to make sure the solenoid is working properly. If it is then you can be more assured the switch is the problem.

 

[wd5gnr]

Do you have the service manual for your RT?

I have it on CD somewhere around here ;-)

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have it on CD somewhere around here ;-)

I know the feeling!! :gaah:

 

[wd5gnr]

On the plus side, while looking for it I found some CDs with Dr. Demento shows recorded on them!

 

[Ex Winger]

When you remove the switch make sure panels are warm and it can be done.I used a very small flat blade screw driver.When cold plastic does not flex easily