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RT 2013 Frunk Button and trunk pistons (?)

wd5gnr

wd5gnr

New member
For some reason the electric frunk release doesn't work reliably anymore. I jam the button down a few times it might eventually work, so I know there is power getting to it, etc. It isn't just dead, just maybe 1 out of 4 or 5 times.

I haven't started looking at it yet, but was wondering if there were any common failure modes for that.

Also the trunk has started falling down. I assume there are some gas cylinders in there somewhere that need to be replaced, but again, haven't started looking yet.

Any advice welcome.
 
wd5gnr said:
For some reason the electric frunk release doesn't work reliably anymore. I jam the button down a few times it might eventually work, so I know there is power getting to it, etc. It isn't just dead, just maybe 1 out of 4 or 5 times.

I haven't started looking at it yet, but was wondering if there were any common failure modes for that.

Also the trunk has started falling down. I assume there are some gas cylinders in there somewhere that need to be replaced, but again, haven't started looking yet.

Any advice welcome.
Click to expand...

I can't help with elec. frunk re-lease other than to suggest making sure Nothing is causing some type of binding …. The RT frunk has never had a spring that would assist in opening it...… I found a CONICAL spring, that after securing it to a piece of thin sheet metal, and after placing it under the Hinge, it would assist in opening the Frunk..... As for the rear trunk gas cylinder, they do fail after awhile and some have added a spring.... there are after market re-placements …. and McMaster Carr has some that will fit ………..good luck....Happy New Year …. Mike :thumbup:
 
Thanks Mike.

I think I did the spring mod on the frunk. Or at least I attempted it but that's been a long time ago. This appears to be something with the electric mechanism. The key release works ok since I worked on it.

I will have to pop the truck lid and see what is not holding it up.

I just replaced my 5 year old battery -- wow did they put that in a tight slot! At least the seat gets to stay on.
 
Another thing to look for is to make sure the rubber Frunk seal is properly set before closing the lid. That seal can easily become dislodged and effect the lid opening..... Jim
 
I think since the manual release works and it eventually works with enough button pushes that this is ok but maybe. I am guessing either the microswitch or the dash switch is intermittent. I've aligned the microswitch before so I'm pretty sure that's not it.
 
I just went and had a look. The microswitch is definitely working because the interior light comes on and off correctly. The switch works if you bang it enough times but mostly does not. How does that switch come out (it is also the parking brake switch)? Does it just pry out?
 
Just about every dash switch for the frunk that ever made it down into Aust has failed or is prone to failure!! Some owners have managed to get a bit more life out of them by pulling the switch apart & cleaning everything before replacing it all, but most have had to resort to other means like replacement - and on the 2013 RT's where that is a combination switch with the park brake switch on one side & the frunk release on the other, that can be a pain &/or expensive!! You might want to check the price on the switch before making up your mind which path you'll choose. Like a few over here, yojj could choose to move the frunk release wiring across to a replacement single switch installed in the spare slot that we have in that panel (park/frunk, handgrip heaters, & air suspension up/down - no fog light switch on Aus spec Spyders) but I don't know if you'll have that slot available; while others here just ignore the electric release & simply use the key turn option!

Good Luck! :thumbup:
 
Yes I've been using the key but I'm trying to get the old girl back to 100% shape. I was thinking about shooting the switch with contact cleaner but I don't know it comes apart. The switch is about $60 but I have a feeling the glovebox has to come out to do the replacement. Ugh.
 
:banghead: you know , these things are like the hot cars we liked too sport around in when we were young-uns , slick , fast and fun to be seen on ! but with that said ---- you will need too knock your knuckles a bit too keep these at 100 % fine ( I guess home ownership will fall in here also :gaah: ) , just start looking at the problems do the easier ones first to get comfortable with working in the spyder ---------> with the switch on the console under the handle bars , what will probably be the easiest is take off the left side top skin too gain access too the button area , ( shoot go for broke buddy :yikes: and take both top side skins off , you will be able too view straight though , and you can not know what too expect to find once your in there ... but from taken things apart , I think the 3 position switch will have plastic like ahhhh what would be a good word for those dang things ? kind of like spring action finger clips ( think of the letter --- W ---- press the out side legs toward the inner body and the switch will lift up and out ----- > probably not very far if you have not pulled the wiring off the switch first ) but while we are here in the wires and things that might spark :p see if those wires on the switch are loose , if they wiggle really easy and pull of even easier , this will be the problem , might be able too just squeeze those wire connection clip legs just a touch , and put them back on and try the switch ------ BEFORE YOU TAKE THE SWITCH OUT OF THE HOUSING <----- sorry had too add this when pulling any thing wired , there is other things that will most likely be tied too those same wires ( example : heated grips , air ride , and fog lighting switches will probably wire tied together in a tight harness assembly ! ) so this is where the taken both top sides apart before you put hands inside --- and drop your tools in the center of the beast :gaah: :roflblack: face it we have all done it ! ------> good luck mr ,phelps this message will dis appear in 5 seconds :roflblack:
 
Yeah I've had her apart a few times -- I've installed 12V connectors in the cockpit and some mounts so I pretty comfortable yanking the tupperware and all that. I'm just lazy lol. I'll be better when it gets warmer but then I want to ride instead of be in the garage ;)
 
wd5gnr said:
Yes I've been using the key but I'm trying to get the old girl back to 100% shape. I was thinking about shooting the switch with contact cleaner but I don't know it comes apart. The switch is about $60 but I have a feeling the glovebox has to come out to do the replacement. Ugh.
Click to expand...

Switches are available on Amazon and Ebay for much less. Except for the labels on the switches, they are generic parts.
 
As I see it....

you have a switch problem as the release is working but not getting power at times. Switches do get dirty and contact will not be made. I would pull the switch and work with it if you are so inclined or simply replace it. With the switch out you can test the circut to be sure...:thumbup:
 
wd5gnr said:
Yes I've been using the key but I'm trying to get the old girl back to 100% shape. I was thinking about shooting the switch with contact cleaner but I don't know it comes apart. The switch is about $60 but I have a feeling the glovebox has to come out to do the replacement. Ugh.
Click to expand...

You can replace the Frunk switch with out and disassemble.Did a buddy's last summer popped switch up and had just enough wires held the bottom of the plug with an old bent screw driver Better with 2 people
 
Ex Winger said:
You can replace the Frunk switch with out and disassemble.Did a buddy's last summer popped switch up and had just enough wires held the bottom of the plug with an old bent screw driver Better with 2 people
Click to expand...

:agree: …. I've worked on those switches myself ….. not the easiest to re-move but it can be done …...good luck …. Mike :thumbup:
 
wd5gnr said:
Also the trunk has started falling down. I assume there are some gas cylinders in there somewhere that need to be replaced, but again, haven't started looking yet.
Click to expand...
You're referring to the rear trunk lid, right? There is a thread here about that recently. There is one gas strut that can be replaced easily. There are after market ones that work good. Some of us have added one on the other side to hold up the lid with a rack on it. Search the forum for the thread. It'll have all the info you need.
 
(forgot to quote):
You can replace the Frunk switch with out and disassemble.Did a buddy's last summer popped switch up and had just enough wires held the bottom of the plug with an old bent screw driver Better with 2 people
Click to expand...

Any tips on how to do it? I took a thin tool and tried to pry up but it didn't look like it was going to do it. There looks like there is a gasket under it. And I'm preety sure it has those plastic "snap wings" on the short edges. So in theory if you pushed the wing in it should slide up and out but I was unable to do that with a quick pass.
 
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