RS-S (SE5) HID PROBLEMS

[kleeg1st]

Has anyone installed an HID headight conversion kit to an RSS SE5?? I recently installed an 8000k HID kit to my headlights and now my electronic shift will not operate at times. It seems like some sort of electrical interference going on. After reinstalling my factory headlights...all is good. I verified the battery was good, had the kit tested and it was good...why am I having this problem.

Is it a way to bypass the automatic headlights turning on with ignition? I think if i can bypass this and switch the HID on after the spyder is started, it would eliminate the problem. Being that it would eliminate the initial high voltage at the moment of starting everything on the spyder at once (hope that makes sense). I believe the sudden draw of power on start is confusing the CPU and starving the electronic shift module.
That way after the spyder is running I can then switch on the HID's

Any assistance would be appreciated and Safe Riding!!

 

[DrewNJ]

I had problems with the xenondepot volt kit on my sm5 RS. Wouldn't start first crank. To much voltage draw would kill the motor every time as the lights lit. Was told I needed the lower current draw balasts.
I went back to the stock halogens.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kleeg1st]

I had problems with the xenondepot volt kit on my sm5 RS. Wouldn't start first crank. To much voltage draw would kill the motor every time as the lights lit. Was told I needed the lower current draw balasts.
I went back to the stock halogens.....


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Yea that's exactly what my SE5 would do and at times it would start, my electronic shift would not work. I hate to have to go back to factory after seeing the awesome look and light output when it did fire up. But its not worth the headache. :banghead:

 

[DrewNJ]

Yea that's exactly what my SE5 would do and at times it would start, my electronic shift would not work. I hate to have to go back to factory after seeing the awesome look and light output when it did fire up. But its not worth the headache. :banghead:

That was actually my thought too. I just want to ride...not troubleshoot misc gremlins....lol


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[WAR209]

Any luck figuring this issue out? I've been looking around for answers, since I was just about to pull the trigger on getting an HID conversion kit from ebay, until I read a small disclaimer on the sellers website that read the kit wouldn't work on automatics. I have an RSS with SE5 trans & don't want to through my money away.

Are we just out of luck in getting this type of kit? I sure as hell wont spend the $$$ on the OEM kit.

 

[r1100rider]

Has anyone installed an HID headight conversion kit to an RSS SE5?? I recently installed an 8000k HID kit to my headlights and now my electronic shift will not operate at times. It seems like some sort of electrical interference going on. After reinstalling my factory headlights...all is good. I verified the battery was good, had the kit tested and it was good...why am I having this problem.

Is it a way to bypass the automatic headlights turning on with ignition? I think if i can bypass this and switch the HID on after the spyder is started, it would eliminate the problem. Being that it would eliminate the initial high voltage at the moment of starting everything on the spyder at once (hope that makes sense). I believe the sudden draw of power on start is confusing the CPU and starving the electronic shift module.
That way after the spyder is running I can then switch on the HID's

Any assistance would be appreciated and Safe Riding!!

I just did this and posted several times what I had to do was foil wrap all the hid connectors and make sure they were away from the stock wiring after the foil wrap I taped them mine is a SM but it would do the same thing as yours throw a vss code and the starter button would quit

 

[WAR209]

I just did this and posted several times what I had to do was foil wrap all the hid connectors and make sure they were away from the stock wiring after the foil wrap I taped them mine is a SM but it would do the same thing as yours throw a vss code and the starter button would quit

:hun:......

Is this a true fix?? Foil wrap & tape?? Doesn't sound like something I'd be willing to risk. Sucks.... I really wanted this conversion along with some Halo's.:dontknow:

Are all these kits one & the same? Do they all suffer from the same issue for SE5's?

For example...
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme-HID-Kits-s/9954.htm
Vs.
http://www.aandrmotorsport.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=1337

 

[r1100rider]

:hun:......

Is this a true fix?? Foil wrap & tape?? Doesn't sound like something I'd be willing to risk. Sucks.... I really wanted this conversion along with some Halo's.:dontknow:

Are all these kits one & the same? Do they all suffer from the same issue for SE5's?

For example...
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme-HID-Kits-s/9954.htm
Vs.
http://www.aandrmotorsport.com/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=1337

I used the kb kit I know it seem like a crazy fix but I played with it and the foil acts as an insulator (ever held an amprobe arround a wire there is all kinds of bleed off even with a rubber coated wire) from the electrical bleed off I tried it several times as soon as I removed the foil from arround the connectors the vss code came back the main area was where the kit plugged into the terminal where the OEM bulb was the foil is thin and mould's tite and I wraped in electrical tape anyway nothing really to fail and it's all inside the dash out of site , I guess you can just return the kit or buy the cheap BRP kit you ask if anyone found a fix and I told you what shut up the nanny for me , many have run into this problem an lot's have give up, remember these kits use a transformer that steps up the straight 12v to high voltage that nanny isn't used to seeing. Also the feed wires have to match polarity

 

[Sereniti]

You wouldn't happen to have pics?

I used the kb kit I know it seem like a crazy fix but I played with it and the foil acts as an insulator (ever held an amprobe arround a wire there is all kinds of bleed off even with a rubber coated wire) from the electrical bleed off I tried it several times as soon as I removed the foil from arround the connectors the vss code came back the main area was where the kit plugged into the terminal where the OEM bulb was the foil is thin and mould's tite and I wraped in electrical tape anyway nothing really to fail and it's all inside the dash out of site , I guess you can just return the kit or buy the cheap BRP kit you ask if anyone found a fix and I told you what shut up the nanny for me , many have run into this problem an lot's have give up, remember these kits use a transformer that steps up the straight 12v to high voltage that nanny isn't used to seeing. Also the feed wires have to match polarity

 

[WAR209]

Well... If I had either kit, I'd DEFINITELY be willing to test the foil theory. I only stumbled on this post while researching how difficult/easy the install was. It now seems apparent that these kits cause issues with SE5 transmissions. At least the A&D Motorsports site clearly states "This kit will not work with the automatic transmission." KB CarStuf should do the same if that's the case.... I'm sure if others in this forum could test the foil & tape theory, & see if that works for them, these vendors would/could modify these kits with appropriately shielded wiring & get this fixed once & for all. Would mean more sales for them..

In the interim, to help others out, we should clearly state:

If you have a :spyder2: with an SE5, automatic transmission, DO NOT buy the HID conversion kit unless you want to stall out & have nanny issues...

 

[kyspyder]

The very 1st thing to try is separating the ballasts as far away from each other as possible, instead of right next to each other in the photo.
Instead of tinfoil (aluminum foil) go to a camera store or online, not Wally World, and get a lead lined film bag, cut it up and wrap the ballasts with it. No radiation will escape from the ballasts when properly wrapped with this type bag.


KYSPYDER

 

[SPYD1]

KB recommended the 4300k kit for my RS and yours is 8000k. Could this be the issue?

 

[r1100rider]

It wasn't the ballasts that I had to shield it was the connection to the Oem high beam wires

I have an sm not se

My issue was vss code

This is really strange as picky as nanny is the spyder will start and run just fine with the speedo cluster unplugged and removed

KYSPYDER[/QUOTE]

 

[Sereniti]

Has any one tried using a relay on their system

• HID Xenon H4 Bi-xenon Hi / Lo Relay Harness With Fuse
• This Relay is for the H4 bi / Hi Low kit
• It has the connection to control the Hi Beam light
• Relay harness protect your hid, resolve problems with flickering due to low electrical current, and problem with one headlight turn on during initial start up.
• This relay will power BOTH ballasts.
• This kit is meant for the bi / Hi Low bulbs
  
  Specifications:
• 35w Relay
• 30 Amp Fuses
• High quality PVC tubing avoids over heating

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/HID-Conversion-Kit-Relay-Harness-Installation-DIY-Guide-a/184.htm

 

[NancysToy]

Has any one tried using a relay on their system View attachment 66861

• HID Xenon H4 Bi-xenon Hi / Lo Relay Harness With Fuse
• This Relay is for the H4 bi / Hi Low kit
• It has the connection to control the Hi Beam light
• Relay harness protect your hid, resolve problems with flickering due to low electrical current, and problem with one headlight turn on during initial start up.
• This relay will power BOTH ballasts.
• This kit is meant for the bi / Hi Low bulbs
  
  Specifications:
• 35w Relay
• 30 Amp Fuses
• High quality PVC tubing avoids over heating

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/HID-Conversion-Kit-Relay-Harness-Installation-DIY-Guide-a/184.htm

Please note that the Spyder is not a bi-filament (hi-low) system.

 

[Sereniti]

its is on the 2013 sts


But their are relays for other size bulbs as well

Please note that the Spyder is not a bi-filament (hi-low) system.

 

[Sereniti]

Install a relay

it wil bypass the auto lights for power and the igniting of the ballast on startup will come directly from the battery, problem solved

Has anyone installed an HID headight conversion kit to an RSS SE5?? I recently installed an 8000k HID kit to my headlights and now my electronic shift will not operate at times. It seems like some sort of electrical interference going on. After reinstalling my factory headlights...all is good. I verified the battery was good, had the kit tested and it was good...why am I having this problem.

Is it a way to bypass the automatic headlights turning on with ignition? I think if i can bypass this and switch the HID on after the spyder is started, it would eliminate the problem. Being that it would eliminate the initial high voltage at the moment of starting everything on the spyder at once (hope that makes sense). I believe the sudden draw of power on start is confusing the CPU and starving the electronic shift module.
That way after the spyder is running I can then switch on the HID's

Any assistance would be appreciated and Safe Riding!!

 

[WAR209]

kleeg1st, DrewNJ, r1100rider, & anyone else who experienced this issue... What year/trans is your :spyder2:??? btw... to Sereniti... Even though the foil fix theory worked for r1100rider, the relay theory is more my flavor. Is this something you actually did to resolve a similar issue, or just a suggestion for those who are? Trying to identify patterns based on all the good feedback we're getting.

I have a 2011 RSS with SE5 Transmission


Thanx :thumbup:

 

[Sereniti]

Relay harness is what was suggested on my car and truck and is what i used, but relays are desinged to make sure you never have the problems that spyders have, the lights are auto on which means you get no time to warm up before the ballast fire and that causes and issue i seen this with the fog lights luckily the fog lights are not auto on and i can wait a few min so the spyder is warm then i turn them on and i wont have the shut off or error code issues .


I dont suggest any spyder owner install hid's on the low beams with out running a relay directly to the battery for power vs getting power directly from the stock harness.

kleeg1st, DrewNJ, r1100rider, & anyone else who experienced this issue... What year/trans is your :spyder2:??? btw... to Sereniti... Even though the foil fix theory worked for r1100rider, the relay theory is more my flavor. Is this something you actually did to resolve a similar issue, or just a suggestion for those who are? Trying to identify patterns based on all the good feedback we're getting.

I have a 2011 RSS with SE5 Transmission


Thanx :thumbup:

 

[r1100rider]

kleeg1st, DrewNJ, r1100rider, & anyone else who experienced this issue... What year/trans is your :spyder2:??? btw... to Sereniti... Even though the foil fix theory worked for r1100rider, the relay theory is more my flavor. Is this something you actually did to resolve a similar issue, or just a suggestion for those who are? Trying to identify patterns based on all the good feedback we're getting.

I have a 2011 RSS with SE5 Transmission


Thanx :thumbup:

These kb car stuff kits have a relay built into the harness and Ive stated mine is a sm5 the HID's draw less than stock halogen bulbs so much for the relay theory no one want's believe the interference / bleed off theory I wrapped no problem unwrapped vss code rewrapped no problem must be aliens not interference Also mine is the 3600k output don't know what else to say some haven't had problems because there wires just happened to be far enough apart which I was able to do one the 1st Spyder but I couldn't make work on second Spyder that why I decided to shield instead this is done on lots of the appliances I work on they shield the boards with reflective material