Round RT-622 Trailer Plug - cut if off?

[jwulf74]

Round RT-622 Trailer Plug - cut it off?

I tore into our "new" 2010 trailer today to better understand the wiring so when the hitch finally shows up (presumably with the new non-round plug), I will be able to wire it up.

So I take that I should just cut the round plug off and strip the outer covering back a little ways and put a new connector on? Or should I leave it intact and pull it out and try to pull a whole new set through the trailer hitch arm?



I plan on taking it a step further too and wiring in the back up lights. Looks easy enough. The trailer has all the wiring for it as does the lead to the Spyder. I just need to cut the wires to the back up bulbs and splice them into the pink wires that run to the back but BRP never bothered to use. Then I think I just need to tap the back up wire on the Spyder itself into the main harness back to the trailer. If the nanny complains I will just throw a relay in and power them off the main power. I think it would be good though unlike the blinkers. I plan on retaining the amber blinkers too... I may end up not using the BRP cable that comes with the hitch since I will need to wire both of our Spyders to pull it. Then to top it off, I plan on wiring in a light inside the trailer. I don't link the idea of that goofy battery powered thing BRP sells for inside as I will forget to change the batteries and they will be dead when I want it to work. Sure it may only work when the Spyder is powered on, but that's no biggie.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I tore into our "new" 2010 trailer today to better understand the wiring so when the hitch finally shows up (presumably with the new non-round plug), I will be able to wire it up.

So I take that I should just cut the round plug off and strip the outer covering back a little ways and put a new connector on? Or should I leave it intact and pull it out and try to pull a whole new set through the trailer hitch arm?



I plan on taking it a step further too and wiring in the back up lights. Looks easy enough. The trailer has all the wiring for it as does the lead to the Spyder. I just need to cut the wires to the back up bulbs and splice them into the pink wires that run to the back but BRP never bothered to use. Then I think I just need to tap the back up wire on the Spyder itself into the main harness back to the trailer. If the nanny complains I will just throw a relay in and power them off the main power. I think it would be good though unlike the blinkers. I plan on retaining the amber blinkers too... I may end up not using the BRP cable that comes with the hitch since I will need to wire both of our Spyders to pull it. Then to top it off, I plan on wiring in a light inside the trailer. I don't link the idea of that goofy battery powered thing BRP sells for inside as I will forget to change the batteries and they will be dead when I want it to work. Sure it may only work when the Spyder is powered on, but that's no biggie.

This help you any? http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...wire-trailer-harness-plus-other-lights-Part-1 Disregard the parts about the Wig Wag and high mount light connector.

The red wire that goes directly from one bike harness connector to the other in the Y harness is the backup light power. I think the orange one is 12 volt power to the isolator. It is fused at 10 amp and is full time, unkeyed, power. You could tap into both those easy enough. Although it's a bit of a bother to do so, removing the trunk module off the bike gives real good access to everything you need. If you tap into the wires at the Y harness then you don't have to undo any wiring if you ever have to take the trunk module off for some other reason.

If you want to use the amber turn signals on the trailer just replace the BRP isolator with 5 wire Goldwing one, available from several suppliers, and run an new trailer pigtail to the hitch to match your trailer plug. Do you have 2 new Spyders, or one new and one 2010? If only one new one then just change bike side wiring on the new one and you're all set!

 

[jwulf74]

I have all the wires on the trailer identified and now have the back up lights and blinkers all set up.

We have 2 - 2011 Spyders and a 2010 trailer that is new to us. the trailer has the big round plug on it. We are waiting for the hitch to come in still and guessing it will have that 4 plug connector and I an think of skipping the y harness altogether and making my own since I need 2 and will need to send 7 wires which is what is in the harness with the big round plug. Otherwise, I have to plumb a whole new harness through the trailer hitch. There is a 7 wire plug underneath the trailer where the hitch harness connects to the main trailer harness.


Basically I am hoping that I can just cut the round one off and put a new plug or set of plugs on and then make my own harness to the Spyder. Unless that is a bad idea?

The isolator is new to me, but after doing a quick search, basically it looks like just a set of relays which is easy enough to do. Just need to weigh the cost of the relays vs an already set up isolator I guess.

 

[NancysToy]

I have all the wires identified and now have the back up and blinkers all set up.

We have 2 - 2011 Spyders and a 2010 trailer that is new to us. the trailer has the big round plug on it. We are waiting for the hitch to come in still and guessing it will have that 4 plug connector and I an think of skipping the y harness altogether and making my own since I need 2 and will need to send 7 wires which is what is in the harness with the big round plug. Otherwise, I have to plumb a whole new harness through the trailer hitch. There is a 7 wire plug underneath the trailer where the hitch harness connects to the main trailer harness.


Basically I am hoping that I can just cut the round one off and put a new plug or set of plugs on and then make my own harness to the Spyder. Unless that is a bad idea?

The isolator is new to me, but after doing a quick search, basically it looks like just a set of relays which is easy enough to do. Just need to weigh the cost of the relays vs an already set up isolator I guess.

Be aware that the 2010 trailer has separate right and left brake light wires. This makes it easy to use on a 4-wire system, but if you go 5-wire you will need to tie them together. I would either use 4-wire without modifications, or skip the factory harness/module and go directly to the Spyder wiring, preferably with the Goldwing isolator. I do not recommend mixing the systems (using the converter and adding a few direct wired functions).

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have all the wires on the trailer identified and now have the back up lights and blinkers all set up.

We have 2 - 2011 Spyders and a 2010 trailer that is new to us. the trailer has the big round plug on it. We are waiting for the hitch to come in still and guessing it will have that 4 plug connector and I an think of skipping the y harness altogether and making my own since I need 2 and will need to send 7 wires which is what is in the harness with the big round plug. Otherwise, I have to plumb a whole new harness through the trailer hitch. There is a 7 wire plug underneath the trailer where the hitch harness connects to the main trailer harness.


Basically I am hoping that I can just cut the round one off and put a new plug or set of plugs on and then make my own harness to the Spyder. Unless that is a bad idea?

The isolator is new to me, but after doing a quick search, basically it looks like just a set of relays which is easy enough to do. Just need to weigh the cost of the relays vs an already set up isolator I guess.

You're getting the BRP hitch kit, right? If so, the bike wiring comes with it. The harness is two sections, the Y harness that plugs into the connector in the rear light and power harness, and the isolator with the 4 wire trailer pigtail to the hitch. If you want to retain all the functions of the trailer, which includes amber turn signals, and backup light, right, then I would take the Y harness and cut off the isolator connector. Splice a new 5 wire isolator to the harness. In fact you might might to use the BRP isolator to power the backup lights. The reason I say that is all the lights on the back of the bike are fed from the cluster. If you tie into any of them for your trailer and have a short in your trailer wiring you risk blowing the cluster. It is a mini-nanny after all. The cluster is sensitive to the total load on the light circuit and directly connecting the trailer lights to it may upset it. Read some threads about adding LED lights and having fast blinking.

I was just thinking. You might consider getting an isolator, they're called 5 to 4 wire converters, from an auto parts store. Might be cheaper than a Goldwing isolator. Wire it in parallel to the BRP isolator and feed the backup power and the brake signals into it. If you have trouble figuring out how to do this let me know and I'll sketch up a diagram for you. Two isolators, each with 4 outputs, of which you use three, and voila, you have six isolated feeds to the trailer, LT, RT, Stop, Tail, Backup, and ground. If you use a 7 wire connector you can have auxiliary power also. That you may want to run direct from the battery.

You can do what you want. It just depends on how much time, thought, and energy you want to expend. If all those are at a premium follow Nancystoy's suggestions!

 

[jwulf74]

What is the main differences between the isolator and just using some relays? Or is the isolator basically just a fancy set of relays?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

What is the main differences between the isolator and just using some relays? Or is the isolator basically just a fancy set of relays?

Nothing really, other than the newer isolators are probably solid state. The one I used and show in my project posting is actually a package of electromechanical relays. I could hear them clicking. Size, convenience of being in a single package, interconnected wiring already done, and weatherproofing, are the only great advantages of the isolator over a group of individual relays.

 

[jwulf74]

Cool Thanks for the help and tips. Trailer wiring is new to me but I think I have a game plan now. Just need to investigate the isolator a bit and see if the local Honda bike shop has them at a reasonable price.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Cool Thanks for the help and tips. Trailer wiring is new to me but I think I have a game plan now. Just need to investigate the isolator a bit and see if the local Honda bike shop has them at a reasonable price.

I'd order them online from someone like Wingstuff.com, BikeBandit.com, and others. Mine was plug and play for a GL1500 on closeout for $35. I just cut the connectors off since they were entirely different.

I think the ones at the local auto parts are something like $20, but I could be way off too.