Rough idle on cold start up, please help? 2014 RT

[Shively]

I have a 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, it only has 18,000 miles on it. When it sits overnight and I start it up, it sputters and idles rough for about 2 minutes. I checked for vacuum leaks, I’ve changed the plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and it has a new battery. There are no codes showing on the dash. I’m at my wits end trying to figure this out, I don’t have hundreds of dollars to take it anywhere close to home because I don’t know of anyone that will fix it without overcharging me. Please help?

 

[happyspyder2039]

Sounds like possibly bad gas. Try seafoam or startron engine additives

 

[Isopedella]

You seem to have done everything I first thought of, so well done.

I would be looking at the gas next as well. Possibly remove all of it and replace with fresh perhaps.

Let us know the results.

 

[PMK]

Most likely related to the fuel tank evap system. As a test, if safe to do so, leave the fuel cap loose overnight, followed by a typical start in the morning.
Possibly the purge valve is acting up and dumping gasoline fumes into the engine airbox that are causing the engine to run richer than normal at start up.

 

[BertRemington]

Adding some explanation for PMK's running rich and why it would correct after two minutes: when cold the engine runs open-loop and the HEGO cannot correct the mixture. After two minutes the HEGO has reached operating temperature and the engine shifts to closed-loop at which time the overly rich mixture can be corrected by the ECM by reducing fuel injector duty cycle.

 

[PMK]

Simply curious, has the original person had any luck resolving this yet?

 

[BajaRon]

Did you check to see what the spark plugs looked like and test the fuel injectors when you had the spark plugs changed? 18k is very early for needing spark plugs. But taking 8 years to go 18k means a lot of sitting. We've seen a fair number of clogged injectors on Spyders that have been sitting a lot. If the problem clears up after a few minutes. It could mean the injectors, if they are the issue, aren't all that bad. A few tanks of straight premium fuel and heavy dose of injector cleaner would be a cheap fix, if it works.

Even if this didn't help. It would, at least, assist in eliminating those areas of possibility without spending a lot of money.

 

[PMK]

Did you check to see what the spark plugs looked like and test the fuel injectors when you had the spark plugs changed? 18k is very early for needing spark plugs. But taking 8 years to go 18k means a lot of sitting. We've seen a fair number of clogged injectors on Spyders that have been sitting a lot. If the problem clears up after a few minutes. It could mean the injectors, if they are the issue, aren't all that bad. A few tanks of straight premium fuel and heavy dose of injector cleaner would be a cheap fix, if it works.

Even if this didn't help. It would, at least, assist in eliminating those areas of possibility without spending a lot of money.

No doubt a quality product, specific for cleaning injectors is a great idea.

Unless traveling and burning full tanks of fuel, I use Yamalube Fuel Med RX in each tankful of fuel. Prevents corrosion, cleans components and stabilizes fuel to to prevent phase separation and the associated octane reduction.

 

[larryd]

Here is a short video on the "Yamalube Fuel Med RX product"

Lots of valuable fuel information...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej_6SVp1ze0

 

[PMK]

Here is a shot video on the "Yamalube Fuel Med RX product"

Lots of valuable fuel information...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ej_6SVp1ze0

Yes sir, I have also linked that many times here on Spyderlovers. After testing most of the typical products folks here recommend, and non having worthy results, I found the Yamalube Fuel Med RX and tested that. It was the only product that prevented a carb from becoming fouled from gasoline with ethanol added fuel.

I buy a box of the small bottles, one bottle per fill up on the Spyder, unless traveling and burning tanks of fuel.

Couple years ago, met a woman that rode with her husband. Not Spyders, but two wheels. She explained that she had just gotten her motorcycle back from the shop. All carbs needed cleaning. Her husbands was headed there next. I told her about the Yamalube. Few days later, I got a text. Apparently they tied the Yamalube Fuel Med RX before heading to the shop. Apparently it did more than stabilize the fuel and prevent corrosion. Apparently it cured what ever was up with his poor running machine.

Quality gasoline, Yamalube Fuel Med RX, Plexus for the windscreen, Mothers for the paint, and Mobil 1 for the oil. I just stick with what has worked for me for a long time.

 

[BajaRon]

Yes sir, I have also linked that many times here on Spyderlovers. After testing most of the typical products folks here recommend, and non having worthy results, I found the Yamalube Fuel Med RX and tested that. It was the only product that prevented a carb from becoming fouled from gasoline with ethanol added fuel.

I buy a box of the small bottles, one bottle per fill up on the Spyder, unless traveling and burning tanks of fuel.

Couple years ago, met a woman that rode with her husband. Not Spyders, but two wheels. She explained that she had just gotten her motorcycle back from the shop. All carbs needed cleaning. Her husbands was headed there next. I told her about the Yamalube. Few days later, I got a text. Apparently they tied the Yamalube Fuel Med RX before heading to the shop. Apparently it did more than stabilize the fuel and prevent corrosion. Apparently it cured what ever was up with his poor running machine.

Quality gasoline, Yamalube Fuel Med RX, Plexus for the windscreen, Mothers for the paint, and Mobil 1 for the oil. I just stick with what has worked for me for a long time.

Carburetors are a much different animal compared to fuel injectors. What ails a carb is not necessarily the same as what ails an injector. And vice-versa. Not saying anything wrong with Yamalube or that it won't work with injectors. Just saying that fixing one does not automatically mean it will fix the other.

 

[PMK]

Carburetors are a much different animal compared to fuel injectors. What ails a carb is not necessarily the same as what ails an injector. And vice-versa. Not saying anything wrong with Yamalube or that it won't work with injectors. Just saying that fixing one does not automatically mean it will fix the other.

While absolutely true regarding comparing operation of a carb vs fuel injection, you must realize too and understand that the ethanol causes corrosion of metal parts and degradation of rubber and other plastic parts.
With Yamalube acting as a corrosion inhibitor regarding attack of metal and rubber parts by the ethanol, it cares not if fuel injected or carbureted.

As i mentioned, I accomplished my own informal tests. My four stroke Briggs and Stratton lawnmower was the test subject. What I ultimately learned was that Stabil, Sea Foam, Star Tron, and several other fuel preservatives failed to prevent the ethanol from corroding and contaminating the carb. The one product that did work was Yamalube Fuel Med RX. Not once, in a similar time frame, was fuel treated with Yamalube caused failure to start, run correctly, and when the carb bowl was opened, no residue from ethanol or corrosion was present.

For a long time I drank the Stabil Kool Aid. Then tested. Fast forward to now, our 99 Ford van, occasionally gets a can or two of Sea Foam at fill up if cheap and on sale. Other than that, it may get Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel. The Spyder gets Yamalube, the lawnmower, pressure cleaner and generators now only get non ethanol rec gas (easily gotten nowadays), while the 2T lawn equipment gets 100ll Avgas premix, same stuff the competition motorcycles and vintage 2T motorcycles get.

Regarding ethanol enhanced fuel, corrosion never sleeps...

 

[Lew L]

.

Just purchased this product on your recommendations. I also have a poor, old, slow Yamaha V-Max with 4 carbs that have a reputation for causing grief. Living in a dry climate and a steady use of Seafoam have spared me the toiling job of pulling and rebuilding the carbs. I'll gladly use the Yamalube product

Lew L