Rob's Mods & Farkles

[bronzeflex42]

lava bronze

Nice :f_spider: Rob. Love the chrome rack on the trunk and wig wag brake lights.hyea:

 

[Shiznit98204]

I installed this Value Accessories chrome trunk rack. Looks really good, I think. At only 9" deep from the top of the seat back to the tip of the defector, it's not too big and overpowering. Yet it's plenty big enough to hold a medium sized storage bag. Also I wanted one that would not hide my Custom Dynamics top brake light from cars behind me when the rack was being used.

This is a bit expensive but very well made. Chrome rack and deflector; bolts on with chrome hex-head bolts, lock nuts, and chrome braces inside the trunk lid (between the two bolts on both sides) for extra strength. They also provide plastic lipped shims for the 4 holes you drill in your trunk lid. It also comes with rubber tape gripping strips on the sides so as to take the stress off the bolts. I added a little 3M automotive molding tape under the top lip for additional support.

_______________________________________________________________________

Here's a quick and easy farkle that's extremely useful. Spyder Pockets from TricLed are handy zippered mesh pockets that go into the various storage compartments on the RT. I got them to fit the lids for both saddlebags and the trunk. You can securely store small things in there that you want to easily get to in a hurry. I use them for things like gloves, sun glasses, flashlight, sun shield spray, USB power cord, etc.

... ...

Anyone have a direct link for the Spyder pockets? I looked on the Tricled site and can not find them. :banghead:

 

[robmorg]

Anyone have a direct link for the Spyder pockets? I looked on the Tricled site and can not find them. :banghead:

I believe the supplier for the Spyer Pockets may not be producing them any longer. Don't know that for sure. Suggest you give TrickLed a call and see if you can find out more information.

UPDATE: TricLED may be selling Spyder Pockets again. Take a look at this thread, or give them a call at 954-328-9507

 

[Shiznit98204]

I believe the supplier for the Spyer Pockets may not be producing them any longer. Don't know that for sure. Suggest you give TrickLed a call and see if you can find out more information.

Thanks. I did contact them. They no longer have that product. Sad part is I can not find anything else like it. So I just settled for the Hopnel nets.

 

[robmorg]

F4 Windshield and Pin Striping

I came home from Spyderquest 2015 with MORE than just great memories. :thumbup: Here is what I bought from various Spyderquest Vendors this year...

1. An F4 Customs windshield with the large Honda adjustable vent. You can see in the second picture how crystal clear it is. That large vent really lets in a lot of cool air when you open it. Also, I like the fact that the lower OEM vent holes are now covered. They didn't really let in much air, and they collected dirt behind the windshield where you couldn't clean it.

2. Pin striping from "Mac the Knife". Mac does all kinds of graphics, but I wanted something simple and not overpowering. He gave me simple pin striping and graphics in two colors which compliment the color of my "Lava Bronze" Spyder. (You can see some of the pin striping on the windshield picture above.)

Pin striping on frunk lid and fenders. You can also see the High Density Daytime Running Lights here from TricLED - another SQ vendor.

Pin striping and graphics on upper side panels. (Also you can see the 2014 RH radiator grill I installed on my 2013 RT to finish the look of the large vent and block off the small lower vent so it no longer blows hot air directly on my right foot.)

Pin striping and graphics on sides, saddle bags, and rear speakers. There's another graphic on the trunk lid (not shown here).

 

[Pampurrs]

I spent a little money at Spyderquest 2015. Got an F4 Custom vented windshield, and had "Mac the Knife" to some subtle pinstriping around the Spyder.

Rob, which windshield is that? I'm going to be ordering the tall and wide one from F4.

Looks great!!

Thanks

Pam

 

[robmorg]

Rob, which windshield is that? I'm going to be ordering the tall and wide one from F4.

Looks great!!

Pam

Thanks Pam,

It's the stock size windshield, although it is slightly wider at the bottom. I looked at the tall and wide versions but decided against them. I don't usually carry a passenger so I don't need the extra width, and I wanted to be able to see over the top of it when I put it all the way down. The "Honda style" adjustable vent is very nice.

 

[Pampurrs]

Thanks Pam,

It's the stock size windshield, although it is slightly wider at the bottom. I looked at the tall and wide versions but decided against them. I don't usually carry a passenger so I don't need the extra width, and I wanted to be able to see over the top of it when I put it all the way down. The "Honda style" adjustable vent is very nice.

That answers a question that I have about that tall windshield, whether or not it goes down far enough to be able to see over it. Thanks for that info.

Pam

 

[Bfromla]

I installed this Value Accessories chrome trunk rack. Looks really good, I think. At only 9" deep from the top of the seat back to the tip of the defector, it's not too big and overpowering. Yet it's plenty big enough to hold a medium sized storage bag. Also I wanted one that would not hide my Custom Dynamics top brake light from cars behind me when the rack was being used.

This is a bit expensive but very well made. Chrome rack and deflector; bolts on with chrome hex-head bolts, lock nuts, and chrome braces inside the trunk lid (between the two bolts on both sides) for extra strength. They also provide plastic lipped shims for the 4 holes you drill in your trunk lid. It also comes with rubber tape gripping strips on the sides so as to take the stress off the bolts. I added a little 3M automotive molding tape under the top lip for additional support.

_______________________________________________________________________

Here's a quick and easy farkle that's extremely useful. Spyder Pockets from TricLed are handy zippered mesh pockets that go into the various storage compartments on the RT. I got them to fit the lids for both saddlebags and the trunk. You can securely store small things in there that you want to easily get to in a hurry. I use them for things like gloves, sun glasses, flashlight, sun shield spray, USB power cord, etc.

... ...

Pockets are good fyi found @ spyderfest called "FLO" Frunk Lid Orginizer

[email protected] can choose various material & patterns. Velcroes to lid @ helps keep all small things (lidlox T bar)from falling into the pit. :2thumbs::firstplace:

 

[robmorg]

Motorcycle Dave's Comformax GEL-Foam Seat Pad Kit

I wanted more comfort in my Comfort Seat, so today I installed Motorcycle Dave's Comformax GEL-Foam Seat Pad Kit. I've been using the AirHawk R seat cushion and I really liked that, but I've been looking for more comfort without the need for a separate cushion. Custom seats are expensive, and you never know exactly what you will get until after you pay for it. Also, I have the 2013 BRP tan colored seat to go with my brown RT, and those are hard to find among after-market seat makers. Also it's hard to find an after-market seat that gives you the full extra 2" of leg room that the BRP Comfort Seat does, unless you have it specially built. (I had previously tried the Ultimate Tall Boy seat at SpyderQuest, but it did not put be as far back as my Comfort Seat.) So, for all these reasons, I thought I'd try Motorcycle Dave's gel seat cushion, that you install INSIDE the seat, rather than on top of it.

....Pad shown upside down in this picture to show the gel.

I had previously set the pad on top of my seat to determine the "sweet spot" for me. Turned out that the perfect spot was 1.75" forward of the seat rise. (Most folks would want it a little further back, but I've got a big butt. pps: ) Since good ol' Al Gore just blessed Pennsylvanians with two days of February temperatures in the high 50's I figured I'd tackle the job yesterday and today. So yesterday, with Dave's kit in my garage, I took the seat off the Spyder. After turning it over I found almost 200 tiny stables under there holding the cover onto the plastic base. Not having an easy way to get all those little stables out, OR back in, I "chickened out" and took my seat and Dave's gel pad to an auto seat repair guy this morning. It took him less than two hours to, take the seat apart, cut out the seat foam to position the pad exactly where I wanted it, and put my seat back together. The job cost me just $150, which I thought was well worth it.

For those DIY guys, the job is not hard to do yourself IF you have the correct tools (which is ALWAYS my problem). Dave's kit includes the medical grade gel pad, pre-matched with foam (the exact size as the pad), more thin foam for covering the pad and seat after it's installed, and a razor knife for cutting into the original foam. He also has instructions posted on his web site with pictures, and concise easy-to-follow, step-by-step instructions which (I would say) are very well written.

Here is the finished job...

My seat looks EXACTLY the same as it looked before the pad was installed (which is sort of the point). Dave's Comformax GEL-Foam pad may be invisible to the naked eye, but after a good long test ride today, I can tell you that MY BUTT KNOWS IT'S THERE. It feels GREAT. I cannot wait to test it on an all-day ride this Spring.

UPDATE: Since originally writing this report, I've had an opportunity to make several all-day rides with this cushion installed. On the first trip, I took my Airhawk along in the trunk "just in case". After that I left it at home – I don't need it anymore. This gel/foam cushion is actually a lot more comfortable on rides lasting several hours. Kudos to Motorcycle Dave for coming up with this idea, and marketing it on his site.

 

[Deanna777]

I installed this Value Accessories chrome trunk rack. Looks really good, I think. At only 9" deep from the top of the seat back to the tip of the defector, it's not too big and overpowering. Yet it's plenty big enough to hold a medium sized storage bag. Also I wanted one that would not hide my Custom Dynamics top brake light from cars behind me when the rack was being used.

This is a bit expensive but very well made. Chrome rack and deflector; bolts on with chrome hex-head bolts, lock nuts, and chrome braces inside the trunk lid (between the two bolts on both sides) for extra strength. They also provide plastic lipped shims for the 4 holes you drill in your trunk lid. It also comes with rubber tape gripping strips on the sides so as to take the stress off the bolts. I added a little 3M automotive molding tape under the top lip for additional support.

Update... A few folks have asked me how to get this trunk rack. I recently looked on the Value Accessories web site and don't see it there anymore. For those who may want to try to track it down, it is made by "Custom World International". Here is their web site, but it doesn't look like it's been updated since 2014. Don't know if you can reach anyone from that site. That said, Value Accessories does appear to sell a lot of other Custom World parts on this page. Perhaps if you emailed them, they might supply you with more info. Feel free to copy either of my pictures in this message if you do that.

_______________________________________________________________________

Here's a quick and easy farkle that's extremely useful. Spyder Pockets from TricLed are handy zippered mesh pockets that go into the various storage compartments on the RT. I got them to fit the lids for both saddlebags and the trunk. You can securely store small things in there that you want to easily get to in a hurry. I use them for things like gloves, sun glasses, flashlight, sun shield spray, USB power cord, etc.

... ...

I have the Spyder Pockets they are handy to have, I use them a lot, for extra storage. Deanna

 

[robmorg]

I DID see and and it looks really nice Deanna. :thumbup:

I'm handy with some mechanical stuff - especially electrical. But painting stuff is probably a little beyond my talents. Unfortunately I'd likely make a mess of it. pps:

 

[Pampurrs]

I have those Tricled foam grip covers also, and I can attest to their comfort and how well they work with the grip heaters. Easy to install too. Just use a little dishwasher detergent and they slide onto the grips like a condom.

Pam

 

[robmorg]

Yep, I love my foam grips. I bought two pair from TricLED so that I have another when the first pair wore out. But after more than two years, the first pair are still going strong.

 

[Cindy-TricLED]

Thank you for using and liking our products [emoji4]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[robmorg]

Yokohama S.drive Tire

in July of 2015 I took a ride up to Netzley's Tire in Accord, NY and Derrick Netzley installed a Yokohama S.drive on the rear. My exact mileage on the OEM Kenda at the time was 7873, and you can see by the picture below that it was ready to be replaced. (It was probably one of the soft-composite ones they were installing back in 2012/2013.)

The size of the Yokohama s.Drive tire is 205/55R15, which is the same diameter and sidewall width, but slightly wider at the bead than the OEM Kenda (255/50R15). Derrick said that it actually fit the Spyder's automotive rim better than the original tire. (Tire size calculators show these two tire sizes to have almost identical demensions.) This Yoko s.Drive tire has a very favorable UTQG rating of 300/AA/A

Here is a picture of my RT on Derrick's tire platform that he built. He takes this to Spyderquest, in Lake George, every year. Netzely Tire is a GREAT place to get a new tire - the service is great and the price is right. With an advance phone call, Derrick will order you in any tire you want to install. Derrick's dad, Ron Netzely, is one of the Spyderquest organizers and a long-term member of the Spyderlover Forum. I would highly recommend Netzely Tire to anyone in the Northeast. Their shop is located in the beautiful Catskill Mountains of NY. I spent 3 days there, just riding around and taking in the sites (and visiting Spyderlover Bob Denman, who also lives in the area).

As I edit this post, there are about 4000 miles on the new Yokohama, but the tread still looks almost brand new. It is not wearing in the middle, like the Kendas do. And it definately holds the road better - especially when the road is wet.

 

[robmorg]

Upgraded from Sena SMH10 Headset to new Sena 10S

I upgraded my Sena SMH10 headset today to the new 10S that came out a few months ago. I'm glad I did. There are a lot of nice features on it. I thought I'd post a report for those wondering about the 10S. (SMH10 on the left, 10S on the right)

.....

The 10S is now the immediate replacement for the SMH10 that was Sena's top headset until the 20S came out early last year. It is very much like the 20S, although a bit smaller. The main differences between the two newer units (10S & 20S) are that the 10S has only 4 group intercom channels instead of 8; and the 10S has about 33% less stated range (1 mile vs. 1.5 miles). And, of course, the 10S is less expensive. There are other minor functional differences, but those are the main ones. Since I won't be using it for group communications, the 10S was the perfect upgrade for me.

What I like about the 10S vs. my original SMH10, is that it is smaller, sleeker, and a bit more streamlined. AND it has the same speakers and sound system as the 20S. I would not say that the sound difference is "night & day" - the SMH10 had decent sound, but the 10S is noticeably better, making the music a bit more clear and crisp. Phone calls are more crisp as well (for both ends of the conversation, according to my wife). It also has a longer battery life, and the sleeker new 20S style jog dial is easier to use.

The 10S has the same "multi-tasking" audio system that the 20S has. That means that I am able to switch seamlessly between two paired music sources - like my iPod played through the SM10 BT dongle, and any music source on my phone, such as Pandora Radio. I no longer have to get off the bike to turn off the dongle in order to listen to music from my phone. I love that feature. Bluetooth technology has been upgraded to v4.1, which means lower power consumption, more sound clarity, and longer range.

I don't usually ride duel, so I cannot comment much about the intercom features. I did use the intercom once with a passenger who had an SMH10 headset. It worked well.

There is also an FM radio built into the 10S that wasn't there in the SMH10. And, all the new "S" series Sena units also feature a mobile phone app (both Android and Apple), which makes it easier to change feature settings, setup phone and radio pre-sets, and keep track of firmware updates. The apps also contain the Quick-start guide and the user manual.

Pairing devices is a bit different from the SMH10. The SMH10 had a pairing mode called "Multipoint Pairing" which allowed me to pair a third device - my Zumo GPS - which gave me the ability to have two different A2DP music devices and still hear GPS directions from the GPS and use my phone (both HFP protocols). "Multipoint Pairing" has been replaced on the "S" series units with "Selective Pairing", which means you can pair a third device (like a GPS) in only HFP audio mode, and still use it with two music inputs. However, because of the new audio "override feature", if I turn BT on for my Zumo, allowing me to hear directions, it "overrides" my ability to make and receive phone calls while the Zumo is connected. (However I can still listen to music from the phone, or the SM10 dongle, since that is a different protocol.) There IS a work-around... I can open an HFP BT link between my phone and the Zumo, which gives me back the phone functions via the GPS. There are more details about how I paired all 4 devices in the attached PDF document. (Sorry to get a bit technical here, but I figured some folks would want to know about this.)

Bottom line: The 10S is sleeker, easier to use, and sounds better than the SMH10, all of which makes me happy that I upgraded. The intercom functions are also better, but I don't use those.

Some additional reference material for those who may be interested...

Sena Press Release describing some of the upgrades of the 10S from the SMH10

A detailed description of how I paired the 10S with my phone, my SM10 BT dongle, and my Zumo GPS in both "Hands Free Phone" (HFP) and Media Protocols (A2DP) is attached to this message in PDF format (updated 5/14/16) for those who may be interested. (Mostly I wrote this for myself. I spent most all day learning how to pair everything together on the 10S, so that it all worked the way I wanted it to. I do NOT want to have to repeat that "learning experience" when I upgrade the firmware in the future. :sour: )​

 

[robmorg]

Right Foot Heat GONE on my 2013 RTL

Before the heat recall on my 2013 RTL, I had deleted the CAT, wrapped the headers & bypass pipe, and shielded the fuel tank and the hottest panels (including the two under the seat) with heat reflective tape. Doing this rectified the worst of the original heat. So after the recall of last summer, all of my heat problems were history! - EXCEPT for that pesky dragon's mouth down by my right foot - especially when I placed my feet up on the highway pegs.

But no more.... The right foot heat is GONE!! Here's how I finally conquered it (with a bit of help from my dealer):

​

I had already added the 2014 radiator grill with the lower block-off plate. But while it made the Spyder look nice, it did little to stop any foot heat. The 2013 RT is unique, among 998 RT's, in that it has a radiator fan shroud that is completely enclosed and open only at the "dragon hole" forcing 100% of the radiator heat out those two vents. Therefore simply removing the bottom skid plate and adding block-off plates over the vents doesn't work because the heat would still be blocked from going out the bottom. You can see that fan shroud in the picture below (the holes in it are new)...

​

So what I did was this.. (The following steps correspond to the attached pictures below in the order which they appear. You can click on each of them to see the larger pictures.

1. I had my dealer remove the back half of the right bottom skid plate - the part that was directly under this fan compartment. This picture is taken from under the bike. (Dealer did it because it is difficult for me to work under the bike.)

2. Then I had them cut eight holes - approx. 2" wide - in the floor of the fan shroud, so the heat could escape through those holes, and then down through the removed portion of the skid plate. This is now how 90% of the radiator heat escapes. There is no access for it to get back into the engine compartment. Other than these eight holes, the shroud is still intact.

3. I then took my 2014 grill and molded a sheet of aluminum to the back grill contour. The aluminum blocking plate was then painted flat black and riveted to the back side of the grill. At the same time, I trimmed a small section off the bottom edge of the bottom block-off plate to allow the remaining 10% of heat to escape below it (which also happens to be slightly below the floorboard). Pictures 3 & 4 below show the front and back of this grill.

4. Picture 5 below shows what the covered grill looks like with it in place, before re-installing the right middle side panel.​

The finished result, as viewed from the outside, is shown in the top picture of this post. I now can ride all summer, and even put my feet up on the pegs, without my right foot and ankle burning up. hyea:

 

[Larry rt]

I did the same thing. Except I used a mud flap cut to size for the grill part and attached it with heavy duty velcro. This way if for some reason the bike gets hot, I can remove the cover easily. No issue with dragon mouth again.

 

[robmorg]

Good idea. You put the flap on the inside of the grill, right? That would have actually been easier than working with the aluminum. :thumbup: