Rob's Mods & Farkles

[robmorg]

Cockpit Area

Finally got my cockpit area the way I want it with the following farkles...

• 
  [*=1]JT's Dashboard Acessory Mount kit with TechGripper mount for phone. Mounts on top of glare shield with existing bolts.

JT sells a RAM B-Ball-to-17mm adaptor needed for the TechGripper
Added a weatherproof 12V outlet for phone from Battery Tender. This is plugged into to the fused Battery Tender pigtail on the battery. The wire runs to the frunk, out of sight, behind the front fascia panel and the left service cover. This way I was able to add power to the cockpit area without removing the analog gages, and it keeps the lower cockpit area free of wires. I now use this outlet to plug in the Battery Tender. When riding, I stick a duel 2a USB charger in there to charge my phone and anything else.
​

• 
  [*=1]Robin's Hoods glare shield for Zumo GPS
  [*=1]Rivco chrome cup holder with Rivco Can Am mounting bracket. Cup holder comes in chrome, black, or leather covered.
  [*=1]TricLED foam grip covers. Soft, VERY comfortable, inexpensive, and they work well with grip heaters.
  [*=1]Hopnel mini tank bag for Spyder RT - straps to glove box cover. (Shown in second picture.)
  [*=1]Handle Grip Helmet Locks from Lidlox.
  [*=1]LED turn signal lights for the inside of the mirrors. (Easy to see by me, and cars coming up alongside of me.)
  [*=1]Biketrinics CribCliker garage door opener. (Can't see this one, but it works well. Just flash the high-beams twice to open door.)

________________________________________

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I was looking for a solution for where to secure my helmet when the frunk is loaded (like when stopping for lunch on an overnight trip). Came up with these handy hand-grip end helmet locks by Lidlox, a forum sponsor. They work really well. Here are pictures of them installed....

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LINKS TO ALL MODS DESCRIBED BELOW....

BahaRon Sway Bar & Shock Adjustors / Right Side Grill / Bumper Guard / Air Horn

Pre-Recall Mods for Heat Abatement

Post-Recall Mod for Elimination of Right Foot Heat

FOBO Tire Pressure Monitoring System

Comfort Seat / Utopia Backrest

Trunk Rack with Deflector / Spyder Pockets

Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle Installation in Trunk

Cat Bypass with Sound Clips

Custom Dynamics High LED Brake Light / Wig-Wag Brake Light Modulator / LED Turn Signal on Mirrors

RIVCO Highway PegsTricLED

TricLED Daytime Running Lights

F4 Windshield with vent and Custom Pin Striping

Motorcycle Dave's Comformax GEL-Foam Internal Seat Pad

Yokohama S.drive Tire for the Rear

New Sena 10S Headset Upgrade​

 

[robmorg]

BajaRon Sway Bar & Shock Adjustors; Right Side Grill; Bumper Guard; Horn

BajaRon Sway Bar and Shock Adjusters

I've added two mods from BajaRon.

For riding and cornering stability, I've upgraded to the heavier BajaRon Anti-sway Bar, and replaced the plastic heim joint links with Ron's sturdier aluminum ones. These have made a HUGE difference in cornering stability. I no longer even need to consciously lean into normal turns anymore - just the tight ones.

..........

Ron's Shock Adjusters came on the market in early April of 2015, and I was one of the first to jump on these. I've always felt that my shocks were not doing the proper job for me. I did not know, until I recently discussed this with my dealer's service manager, that the first batches of shocks for the 2013 RT's were sub-standard. Apparently, early in the model year, they changed them for better shocks with more effective valving. So BRP agreed to replace mine under warranty. Since installation was included, this was the perfect time to also install BajaRon's new shock adjusters. The new shock with better valving has eliminated the porpoising (and occasional "bottoming out") I was experiencing. Ron's new shock adjusters, with their ability to adjust the compression of the springs, have raised my ride height by about 1.6", and has made a significant improvement to the quality and enjoy-ability of the ride. These adjusters have given me a firmer, more stable ride - especially in turns.

I have to say that the combination of the beefed up sway bar AND the shock adjusters have tremendously improved the Spyder's handling and enjoy-ability to a degree I would have never thought possible. I cannot recommend these two products enough. Also it's worth noting that while these mods from BajaRon improve the ride for just about everybody, the larger you are (or the heavier you load your Spyder) the more you need these, and the more you benefit from adding them.

Here are some pictures of the shock adjusters. My dealer installed them, at the same time as the new shocks, under warranty. They took the frunk off to do the installation. While that is not absolutely necessary, it does make the job significantly easier. These adjusters come in red and silver colors. I like the looks of the red ones on my brown Spyder.

Having the dealer perform the Rolo Laser alignment procedure (a while back) has also helped to eliminate any wandering as the spyder rides down the road.

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The Missing Grill

I've always felt bad about the missing right side grill for the upper radiator outlet on the 2013 RT. The Spyder just seems "unfinished" without it. So I got this coffin grill that matches the OEM one on the left side. This one is made out of light-weight metal and powder-coated in flat black. I feel that the holes are large enough to allow almost as much heat to escape from the radiator as before the grill was added. They make a grill for the lower hole also, but I left that one open. These were sold by ESI Cycle Products, which now seems to be out of business. But see the updated information immediately below...

UPDATE: After the heat recall for 2013 RT's, I removed this after-market grill and replaced it with an actual right side radiator grill for a 2014/2015 Spyder RT. It more closely matches the left side grill, and also includes a block-off plate for the lower radiator vent hole, which helps to eliminate the heat to my right foot. This 2014/2015 part is easily installed on the 2013 RT after a little trimming along the bottom edge of the lower plate. It is BRP part number 705004803 "RH Grill", and costs just $18.99. You can see a picture of this new grill on my Spyder in this post below. Later, I covered the back side of this grill so as to block off all heat from these vents. That post is here.

​

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Front Wear Bar​

Also installed the chrome colored Wear Bar Accent "bumper" from Value Accessories...
It has four rubber scuff strips on the bottom, in case I run into anything like a curb, etc. You also get four more of these strips for future use.

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​

[TABLE="width: 1000"]
[TR]
[TD]Bad Boy Air Horn

Also, I replaced the original meep-meep horn with a Wolo Bad Boy Air Horn. MUCH louder. I had it mounted in the nose on the left side, where the original horn was.

I used a horn relay, even though many folks here say it is not necessary. After checking the 2013 electrical schematics, I discovered that there are several different accessories running off the same fuse as the horn, including the heated hand grips. So I used the original horn button to operate a relay, which feeds power from the battery to the horn. (Click on the thumbnail attachment below for the wiring diagram we used.)

The horn is completely out of sight, mounted behind the left front panel under the fog light area. The only way you can see it, with the panels in place, is to shine a flash light directly up the left "nostril" of the Spyder's nose, and you can see it up there in front of the upper suspension arm and shock absorber. That's how I shot the flash picture below.

There is a black plastic casing inside that airway with a hole in the upper surface to for the original horn to stick through. We had to enlarge the hole to accommodate the larger horn, but it fit securely up in that space.[/TD]
[TD]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

Click on the attached thumbnail below for the wiring diagram we used....

 

[robmorg]

No More "HOT SEAT"

​I've resolved the upper heat problem on my 2013 RT to what is now an acceptable level. Of course you're never going to stop it all, but at least it's to the point where I can ride for many hours now without my thighs getting cooked. Equally concerning is the need to limit the temperature that the fuel tank is subjected to - especially on the 2013 RT, which is noted for problems related to boiling fuel.

I know there have been a lot of posts about "taming the dragon" and I've read most of them. One of the better ones IMO was Jerbear's recent thread, "The Dragon is Dead".

After a good bit of thought, I decided to ignore the radiator area down by my my right foot. It's never bothered me all that much, as I ride with jeans, and don't ever wear light weight socks or shoes. More importantly, I've never liked the idea of installing a heat shield down there that would likely direct more heat into the engine compartment, or removing or cutting holes in the bottom pan. The heat that has always bothered me much more is the heat coming up around the side panels and the seat which tends to fry my thighs as I ride. So that's what I've concentrated on.

JT's filter replacement fix may be a good option for many and I almost went that route. But in the end, I decided against that as well. I didn't want to jeopardize my 3-year extended warranty (which, right or wrong, my dealer said would be the case), and I know I would not be happy with the louder engine noise, although many don't mind that - especially with JT's new muffler installed on the air filter.

So I basically worked with my dealer to accomplish three modifications...

• First I had them wrap both exhaust headers with exhaust tape. The front header that runs all along the left side of the engine compartment is the one most responsible for the seat heat, and as you can see in the picture, it comes all the way back to the gas tank before it takes a 90 deg turn down to the cat.

• Then I added heat reflective tape to the backs of both top side panels (the panels that go under the front of the seat and around the glove box). We were careful to leave the vents in those panels open, but covered everything aft of there back toward the seat. Also completely covered the backs of both and the black upper lateral panels that go under the seat and above the gas tank. We used heat reflective tape, rather than heat insulation, so as not to take up any more room behind the panels than necessary.

• And finally we devised "double sided" heat tape shields (using basic heat reflective tape back-to-back) between the engine and the gas tank to block/reflect heat coming up around the tank to the seat area. Did this around the glove box as well, and where the two side panels come together in the middle. Also used this concept to block off all the open areas in the lateral panels under the seat - especially the openings for the helmet tabs and around the seat lock on the right panel.

At the same time, we did the ECM firmware update outlined in Warranty Bulletin 2013-9. Apparently what that does is to enrich the fuel mixture at idle and slow speeds to help reduce the heat coming up around the seat at slow speeds (like in city traffic).

The past two days, it's been in the 90's here, so I've taken some long rides to assess the results. Of course you are always going to feel some heat when you are sitting on top of a hot engine - especially while stalled in traffic. But for the most part, I've conquered the problem to the point that the remaining heat around the seat is down to where it is no longer objectionable. Before the mods, the four panels that we lined with reflective heat tape were always too hot to touch, and that is no longer the case. I believe that wrapping the headers is allowing a good bit of exhaust heat to flow out through the cat and muffler, thereby keeping both the engine compartment and the gas tank considerably cooler.

I've attached some pictures below for reference.

My next step is to order the Lamonster Cat Bypass Pipe from Pit Bull. I'll cover that with heat shielding exhaust tape before installing it, just like we put on the header pipes. That should make even more difference - especially toward reducing heat at the gas tank. See Message #9 below for more details.



Note: This "mod post" is a copy of an original post in the RT section. If you want to comment, or ask questions about this post, it's best to do it there so that all the comments will be together.

 

[robmorg]

FOBO Tire Pressure Monitoring System

I've used a TPMS on my motorhome for years, and it has saved me a LOT of inconvenience and aggravation over the years. I've always wanted one for my RT, but didn't know they made them small enough to be used with rubber stems until I found out about the FOBO Bike system. As you can see in the picture below, the sensors are very small and lightweight, and should be no problem at all on the Spyder's short rubber valve stems.

After reading the comments in other threads - especially Finless Bob's thread here in the DIY forum (which includes another excellent Finless Video), I put in my order. Installation and syncing them up to my smartphone went flawlessly - and it's very accurate. Now it will no longer be a pain (on my way-too-old arthritic knees) to check the tire pressures on each tire before every ride, and even monitor the pressures on longer trips while riding. I'm lovin' this thing. I think it's going to be one of my favorite farkles before long. :thumbup:

Also I'm betting it'll pay for itself, maybe more than once, in longer tread wear over the life of the Spyder (because up until now, I have NOT been checking the pressures as often as I should).

Here is a screenshot of my smartphone with the monitoring app running, and a picture of one of the sending units on a tire valve....

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The three shaded fields on the display are telling me that the readings shown are NOT in "real time" because I'm currently in the house and the Spyder is outside in the garage, out of range. If they were "real time" readings, the fields would be white. (I'm running the rear at 25 psi, since it is a Yokohama s-Drive car tire.)

 

[robmorg]

BRP Comfort Seat and Utopia Backrest

When I bought my 2013 RT, it had the standard seat on it. Because I am 6'3" tall, I knew right away that I wanted the comfort seat that sits you 2" further back for extra leg room. I added it at the time of purchase and included it in the financing.

When the Comfort Seat came in, I took a picture of the stock seat on the Spyder next to the new Comfort Seat which the guy from the dealer is holding. Compared side by side, you can really notice the difference in seat length, as well as the nicer stitching in the Comfort Seat.

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Utopia Backrest

I like the BRP comfort seat, since I am tall and it gives me an additional 2" of leg room. But Can Am did not make a backrest for the 2013 edition. Fortunately, Utopia Products, in Wadsworth, Ohio does have a matching backrest for the 2013 comfort seat. They make backrests for the Spyder RT Standard Seat and Comfort Seat for any model year and in all stock colors. (For the Comfort Seat, the mounting bar is a bit shorter to accommodate the shorter distance to the pan. Other than that, the backrests for the two different BRP seats are identical.)

Both the color and the stitching are great matches for the BRP seat!
​

I absolutely love this backrest. It is large and comfortable. There are four height adjustments and front-to-back adjustment is continuous, just by turning a set screw. You can change that setting while sitting on the seat any time you want. On the Comfort Seat, the Utopia backrest is mounted one inch closer to the driver when measured from the front edge of the raised section of the seat behind the driver's butt. (This is necessary for the bracket to mount up to the proper spot on the seat pan.) This allows more room for the passenger, but with the continues fore/aft adjustment it does not make the driver any less comfortable. (Also, as others have reported, if you need more room when riding double, you can simply remove the backrest at the hinge, if need be.) And of course the backrest is mounted on a hinge and folds completely forward for easy rider/passenger mounting.

The backrest comes with a matching storage pouch that can easily be removed and doubles as a shoulder bag. You can also order a matching wrap to hide the hardware for $19 more. Also, I eventually replaced the OEM gas seat lift with a RhinoPac 4423, at a cost of only $13, plus $5 shipping. This lift is about 1/2" shorter, but it has a 30 lb. lifting force which makes the seat easier to lift, and now the seat stays solidly in place in the raised position despite the additional weight from the Utopia backrest.

Click on the pictures below for a larger view.

 

[robmorg]

Trunk Rack/Deflector & Spyder Pockets

I installed this chrome trunk rack made by "Customer World International". Looks really good, I think. At only 9" deep from the top of the seat back to the tip of the defector, it's not too big and overpowering. Yet it's plenty big enough to hold a medium sized storage bag. Also I wanted one that would not hide my Custom Dynamics top brake light from cars behind me when the rack was being used.

This is a bit expensive but very well made. Chrome rack and deflector; bolts on with chrome hex-head bolts, lock nuts, and chrome braces inside the trunk lid (between the two bolts on both sides) for extra strength. They also provide plastic lipped shims for the 4 holes you drill in your trunk lid. It also comes with rubber tape gripping strips on the sides so as to take the stress off the bolts. I added a little 3M automotive molding tape under the top lip for additional support.

Update... A few folks have asked me how to get this trunk rack. I recently looked on the Value Accessories web site and don't see it there anymore. I've looked on Custom World's Web Site, and can't find it there either. However Rivco now makes a similar one. Here it is on the Value Accessories Web Site.

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Here's a quick and easy farkle that's extremely useful. Spyder Pockets from TricLed are handy zippered mesh pockets that go into the various storage compartments on the RT. I got them to fit the lids for both saddlebags and the trunk. You can securely store small things in there that you want to easily get to in a hurry. I use them for things like gloves, sun glasses, flashlight, sun shield spray, USB power cord, etc.

... ...

 

[robmorg]

Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle

With some very generous help from finless Bob, another Spyderlover member, I was able to obtain a short harness to go from the RT radio (mounted under the passenger right hand grip), to the trunk, where I mounted a Sena SM10 Bluetooth Dongle. The harness includes both an audio cable and a power cable. It's much cheaper going this route, than paying the "big bucks" for the BRP Bluetooth dongle and long harness that goes with it (which is designed to mount the dongle in the Frunk). UPDATE: Motorcycle Dave (one of our forum sponsors) now sells these harnesses or includes one when you buy a Sena SM10 Bluetooth dongle from him.

I ran the short home-made harness from the "entertainment harness" connector on the radio, up behind the right rear speaker (which isn't that difficult to get off), and then through a hole I drilled in the side of the trunk near the iPod connection point. I then finished the the hole off with a rubber grommet and mounted the SM10, with the mounting bracket that comes with it, as you see in the picture below.

I have a Sena SMH10 headset on my helmet. I was able to pair the SM10 as a "second smartphone" (even though Sena customer service told me that wouldn't work), and then I paired the GPS using the "Multiple pairing" method described in the manual. With this pairing method I am able to listen to streaming music from my Android smartphone (like Pandora Radio), or music coming from the Spyder's entertainment system. The headset can only handle one media (music) source at a time. The SM10 dongle seems to take priority, so if you want to stream music from your phone instead, you simply turn off the power switch on the SM10. Then re-connect your smartphone and headset via bluetooth.

Everything works together well. A phone call takes first priority, followed by direction announcements from the GPS. Either of these will interrupt the media Bluetooth stream of music from my smartphone or the Spyder entertainment system. The one cravat, which is a bit disappointing, is that when you listen to music from the Spyder using the speakers, there is an automatic volume control in settings that will vary the volume with your speed. That system doesn't seem to work when listening via the bluetooth dongle.

Here is a picture of the installation. You can also see the BRP iPod/MP3 player semi-rigid holder that is installed in my trunk. That contains a nano 4th generation iPod that is always connected to the entertainment system.

​

 

[finless]

:clap::clap::clap:

Nice job!

Bob

 

[robmorg]

Cat Bypass Installed (Photo's & Sound Clips)

I just now picked up my Spyder from the dealer shop where it had been for the past 12 days getting a state inspection, routine maintenance, warranty work to replace the air compressor and a faulty hose in my ACS system, the installation of a Signal Dynamics Wig-Wag brake light modulator, and the installation of the Cat Bypass.

As part of my campaign to eliminate the excess heat on my 2013 RTL, I purchased a Lamonster Cat Bypass from Pitbull Powersports. I had previously wrapped the entire length of both exhaust headers with exhaust tape, and added bunches of heat shielding and reflective heat tape under the tupperware to eliminate heat on the fuel tank and coming up around the seat and glove box. That made a lot of difference, but the Cat Bypass was the obvious next step in this process. An equally important objective, in eliminating the catalytic converter, was to lessen the problems resulting from fuel boiling in the fuel tank - a characteristic problem for the 2013 RT. The fuel tank is located directly above the catalytic converter. Cats normally operate in the range of 800-1200° F, and gasoline begins to boil at only 140-160° F. When the catalytic converter is right under the fuel tank in an enclosed space, you can easily see the problem. Before having the bypass pipe installed I also wrapped that with exhaust tape, like the headers, to further reduce the heat.

I thought I'd share some initial comments about the Bypass, along with some before and after photo's and sound clips for those who may be interested. Since it is now December, I won't be able to determine the additional heat reduction until next summer, but I can share some initial observations.

I replaced this catalytic converter.....

with this bypass pipe....

They guys at the shop were impressed with how sturdy and professionally made the Lamonster Bypass pipe is. The things you see at the ends of the pipe are new gaskets that Pitbull also sent along.

The first difference I immediately noticed, upon picking up the Spyder today, was a more pleasing throatier exhaust sound. It's now deeper and just a little louder without being obnoxiously loud. (I still have the stock muffler.) The links below contain .WAV audio files.

Here's what it sounded like before the Bypass was installed.

Here's what it sounds like AFTER the Cat Bypass installation.

In addition to the nicer sound, I was pleasantly surprised on my ride home today with some additional power in the lower gears. The Spyder is a bit more "peppy" now. I suppose that is due to the elimination of the back pressure being caused by the catalytic converter in the exhaust line.

Here's the full thread in the regular forum.

 

[robmorg]

Wig-Wag Brake Light Modulator & High Brake Lights / LED Turn Signals on Mirrors

Wig-Wag Brake Light Modulator and LED High Brake Light

I added a Signal Dynamics Wig-Wag Brake Light Modulator for more brake light visibility. I also have the Custom Dynamics LED High Brake Light that also services as rear running light (less bright with the brake off, if you add the "Dual Converter" per the instructions in the link). I installed the modulator module after the high third brake light, so that the high light continues to stay on steady when the brakes are applied. Therefore only the lower original brake lights modulate. When you apply the brakes, the Wig-Wag module flashes the brake lights alternately four times quickly, then together four more times quickly, then flashes them together more slowly until you release the brake pedal. All the while, the top brake light stays on steady. I figured this combination would give me the most visibility.

There is a short video below that I took with my phone to show the results. (Sorry it's not better than it is. This is my first attempt at editing and posting a video. I should have zoomed in on the bike more and made the video a tad longer.) pps:

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LED Turn Signals in Mirrors

I added the LED turn signal strip on the inside of the mirrors, like others have done. I followed the examples of carajony and finless in this thread, so they get the credit. Thanks, guys. :thumbup: I think this is a very practical mod for two reasons... First, it's hard to see the turn signal indicators on the dash, and secondly, this is a good safety feature for visibility for cars coming up along side you from the rear. I bought these bright LED strips at Auto Zone, for about $15, already cut to the correct size and wired.

First I had to disassemble the mirror housings to get at the turn signal wires inside. (See "disclaimer" below.) Then, after cleaning the mounting area with alcohol swabs, I mounted them on the inside frame of the mirrors. (I figured this was the most visible to cars coming up along side me because they reflect outward in the mirrors, and also the least bothersome position for me.) Then I fished the wires behind the mirrors and out through the hole on the back side. Next I cut the wires coming from the front turn signals (on the front side of the mirrors) and spliced in the new wires as shown below, using 18/22 gauge plastic crimp splices.

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Below is what they look like after remounting the mirrors on the Spyder. They are certainly bright enough to be seen in daylight, and they reflect in the mirrors so they look twice as bright as they actually are...

Disclaimer: While this is an inexpensive and useful mod, it is not necessarily an easy one. I found out that taking the headlight housings apart (and then re-assembling them) is both tedious and delicate work. The three main parts of the housing fits together like a jig-saw puzzle and is all held in place with delicate plastic tabs - some of which are impossible to reach. You have to take apart what you can see and gently pry the "hidden" ones open. I broke two tabs (one on each mirror) in the process. (Luckily there were enough other tabs to hold things back together.) If I were doing this again, I think I'd spend the time to fish a thin wire hook from the wiring access hole in attachment side of the mirror housing to the bottom edge of the glass mirror and pull the LED wires through that way. It'd take a lot of patience, (as you'd be working blind through some very small access holes) but it may be better than taking the plastic housing apart.​

 

[robmorg]

RIVCO Highway Pegs

Installed the RIVCO Black Highway Peg Mount Set and a pair of RIVCO Anti-vibration pegs, both in powder coated black. These are very sturdy and well made. I like the looks of them on the Spyder. While I will not be using these while riding around town, I welcome the opportunity to stretch my legs out every now and then while on a long trip. The brackets are made specifically for 2012 and later RT's with factory floor boards. They are bolted onto the underneath of the floor boards and are cut to fit perfectly along the forward outside curve of the boards. Very easy to install - they give you a template to use, so you know where drill the holes in the floor boards. You don't even need to measure.

I like these brackets because they tend to "hug" the sides of the Spyder and don't stick out from the bike, positioning the pegs in such a way that you don't have to stick your legs out far to use them. You can also rest your heal lightly on the plastic splash guards without exerting undue pressure on them, which makes the peg position even more comfortable. There is still room, however, to easily remove the maintenance panels that are behind them.

Not everyone feels the need to add highway pegs to an RT, but for those that do, I'd recommend this set from REVCO. I posted a complete review of these brackets HERE.

You can see in the picture below, that when the pegs are placed in the upright position, they conform very nice to the contours of the Spyder.

 

[robmorg]

TricLED Daytime Running Lights

Just installed these DRL's from TricLED. I wanted something that would make me more visible from the front - especially during daylight hours. I think these do the trick, as they are very bright. (The pictures below don't really do the brightness justice - they are brighter than they look here.) I like the high density of this light strip because when they are on, you don't see the individual lights. They look like one continuous light bar.

Mounting them is easy. You clean and prime the A-frame covers (with 3M tape primer to make them stick better). Then you drill a small hole at one end of the A-frame cover to feed the wire through, and then just stick them on. They just get spliced into the wires for the fender running lights with a plug-n-play harness that comes with them. Then you tie up the new wires with plastic wire tires. That's all there is to it.

Here are some pictures, showing a close-up; what they look like in both daylight and at dusk; and finally a night close-up. I think they really do make my RT a lot more visible.

(That's BajaRon's shock adjustor you see in the first picture.)

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ADDITIONAL MODS BELOW....

Please see the Original Post for links to ALL my MODS

 

[KennW]

Smart looking units

 

[DJ51]

Spyder Pockets

I was looking on TricLed for the pockets but could not find them, suggestions?
Great looking Spyder, I want all the mods.

 

[robmorg]

I was looking on TricLed for the pockets but could not find them, suggestions?
Great looking Spyder, I want all the mods.

Thanks for the complement.

As for the Spyder Pockets, I've noticed that TricLED no longer has them listed. I spent a little time looking for these on the Net for someone else a while back and couldn't find them. It's a shame because they ARE very useful little items. You may want to give TricLED a call and see if they have any suggestions for locating a source for these.

 

[DJ51]

Thanks a lot

Thanks for the complement.

As for the Spyder Pockets, I've noticed that TricLED no longer has them listed. I spent a little time looking for these on the Net for someone else a while back and couldn't find them. It's a shame because they ARE very useful little items. You may want to give TricLED a call and see if they have any suggestions for locating a source for these.

Appreciate your response and suggestion.

 

[cuznjohn]

i like the flashing lights

 

[robmorg]

Thanks, John. I just added a "second half" to that post #10 today, concerning LED Turn Signals in the mirrors.

 

[Shiznit98204]

Just curious where did you route the power cables for the items on your dash? Through the windshield mount area? And if so how hard was it to fish through there?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

 

[robmorg]

Just curious where did you route the power cables for the items on your dash? Through the windshield mount area? And if so how hard was it to fish through there?

No, I didn't want to go that route as the wire might get caught in the windshield mechanism. Instead, I removed the left wind deflector and the front panel just forwarded that, and routed the wire behind that panel, and into the electrical service area. From there it was easy to fish the wire down to the battery compartment. There is an in-line fuse inside the battery compartment. That weatherproof outlet , on top of the dash, also serves as the connection point for my battery tender.