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Road side lift?

Frankf

New member
Was wondering if any one carries a small road side lift of some sort to use when on a road trip to help in fixing a flat?

I carry a small compressor and have a plug kit, but was thinking it could be helpful to lift the flat wheel when doing the repair and refilling.
 
Was wondering if any one carries a small road side lift of some sort to use when on a road trip to help in fixing a flat?

I carry a small compressor and have a plug kit, but was thinking it could be helpful to lift the flat wheel when doing the repair and refilling.

I have two auto type " scissor " lifts / jacks ..... I cut off the end loop ( for the metal crank ) and welded on two 1/2 nuts .... I can now use my drill to raise and lower them, but you do it by hand until you actually have to lift .... then a small wrench or ratchet & socket is needed .... they are fairly compact and weigh 5 +/- lbs. .... I have one made from aluminum that had a permanently attached crank handle, I think it was from a Toyota. I do carry " in case of " tools, but getting a flat isn't something I'm concerned about....... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
If you paid the extra $$$'s a AAA card helps to keeps your knees clean if you know what I mean.
 
If you have a plug set and compressor, lifting the wheel doesn't give you any advantage. Just roll the bike until you can insert the plug. You only need a jack if you are going to remove the wheel. A jack is heavy and takes up space.
 
If you paid the extra $$$'s a AAA card helps to keeps your knees clean if you know what I mean.

I do have the AAA RV coverage, but a lot of times I'm in the middle of no where and I'd be waiting for days for them to show up. Besides, they won't fix anything, just tow me someplace.
 
If you have a plug set and compressor, lifting the wheel doesn't give you any advantage. Just roll the bike until you can insert the plug. You only need a jack if you are going to remove the wheel. A jack is heavy and takes up space.

Yeah, I'm thinking that is the way to go. I've got a compressor and plug kit, so the fix is dooable.
 
Aaa was useless for me last year and left me stranded..all done.:shocked:

I plan for taking care of myself. AAA is if there is no other solution. Last year was going thru Death Valley, dusk, 95 degrees, wind blowing about 20 knots, no cell reception, and my Buddy's Harley with sidecar decides to give us ****. That's when you know if you planned correctly. Lucky for us, we did.
 
I plan for taking care of myself. AAA is if there is no other solution. Last year was going thru Death Valley, dusk, 95 degrees, wind blowing about 20 knots, no cell reception, and my Buddy's Harley with sidecar decides to give us ****. That's when you know if you planned correctly. Lucky for us, we did.

That's why we carry one of these. We've been stranded in the Death Valley back country and it's not fun... They're a lot cheaper on Amazon or REI.

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/561269

John
 
If you have a plug set and compressor, lifting the wheel doesn't give you any advantage. Just roll the bike until you can insert the plug. You only need a jack if you are going to remove the wheel. A jack is heavy and takes up space.

It’s the throwaway - “just roll the bike until you can insert the plug” that is the cause of my concern, Grandpot. How exactly do you do that when you have to be on the ground to feel for the offending nail, screw etc. On the F3-L you can only see (or feel) a few inches of rear tyre......I’m 6’7” and 300lbs, and I know I wouldn’t be strong enough to stop the bike from rolling away if I put it in neutral on even a small slope. Am I missing something?

Pete
 
It’s the throwaway - “just roll the bike until you can insert the plug” that is the cause of my concern, Grandpot? How exactly do you do that when you have to be on the ground to feel for the offending nail, screw etc. On the F3-L you can only see (or feel) a few inches of rear tyre......I’m 6’7” and 300lbs, and I know I wouldn’t be strong enough to stop the bike from rolling away if I put it in neutral on even a small slope. Am I missing something?

Pete

I thought in the Southern Hemisphere Spyder's rolled up the slope not down. Or do they rotate counterclockwise when not sitting level side to side.:D

Jack
 
I thought in the Southern Hemisphere Spyder's rolled up the slope not down. Or do they rotate counterclockwise when not sitting level side to side.:D

Jack

Hahaha......Yeah you have to have them constantly tethered to the road, or they fall off the bottom of the earth, Jack ;) :2thumbs:

Pete
 
It’s the throwaway - “just roll the bike until you can insert the plug” that is the cause of my concern, Grandpot. How exactly do you do that when you have to be on the ground to feel for the offending nail, screw etc. On the F3-L you can only see (or feel) a few inches of rear tyre......I’m 6’7” and 300lbs, and I know I wouldn’t be strong enough to stop the bike from rolling away if I put it in neutral on even a small slope. Am I missing something?

Pete

I can't allow for every unique circumstance. If you have a passenger, have them look while you roll. If you are alone, roll a short distance, put on the parking brake, and look.
 
It’s the throwaway - “just roll the bike until you can insert the plug” that is the cause of my concern, Grandpot. How exactly do you do that when you have to be on the ground to feel for the offending nail, screw etc. On the F3-L you can only see (or feel) a few inches of rear tyre......I’m 6’7” and 300lbs, and I know I wouldn’t be strong enough to stop the bike from rolling away if I put it in neutral on even a small slope. Am I missing something?

Pete

Get yourself at least one (if not two?) of those small folding/collapsible wheel chocks; place ahead of any wheel in whatever direction of roll you choose, but only about 6"/150mm; and roll Spyder/Ryker on to it; check tire for offending object &/or puncture; if not found, repeat as necessary until found.... works most of the time, even for me! :thumbup:

The collapsible chocks don't need to be big, the pair I have take up about as much space as a 50 pack of cigarettes when folded together, and IIRC they cost all of about $10 for the pair from SuperCrap Auto.... and then I found them at the local AutoPro outlet on special about a week later at close to half that! :rolleyes: Still, it's handy to have them for Justin.... they can help stop the Spyder/Ryker rolling away: if you've had to realease the parkbrake cable cos it as locking on; if you need to look for a puncture (as discussed); if you just want to make things a little harder for the lowlives who might try to drag your machine outta the motel car park under the cover of darkness (they're bloody hard to see in the dark when they're tucked under the inboard end of a coupla tires!); and even if you just don't like the look of how steep the spot is wherever you hafta park; and there's probably a bunch more uses/scenarios too! :ohyea:

A good investment, even at two or 3 times the price - even if just for the peace of mind knowing they're in the kit! :thumbup:
 
Wondering if Can-am will have run-flat tires for the Spyder in the near future.

:roflblack:They would have to put some good tires on our bikes to do that and we all know they are not going to do that anytime soon!!!
 
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