• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Risers for handlebars

Click here for price and to order Kewlmetal Mirror Extensions for your Spyder. You must call them and mention SPYDERLOVERS.COM for a discount price. They are in stock and shipping now. Waiting for mine.
 
RocketLady said:
I am short (5'3") and I can't wait to get the risers ! Being short you will have pressure on your wrists from leaning forward. It really is comfortable but that 1 inch will make a difference for you that I think you will like.
Thanks Rocket Lady. Most of the posts seemed to indicate risers would be best for the taller riders. I had them on my V-star and it was a welcome addition. They were pull-back as well. (2" rise 1 1/2" pull back I think). I am just not sure about the body positioning versus a Cruiser. Appreciate your feedback
 
The riser has helped me sit taller on Spyder. That changes the way I see in the side mirrors, also over the windshield, and especially less pressure on my wrists. Really that 1" + riser (even for shorter people) makes a bigger difference that I ever thought it would, also the handlebars come back slightly. It makes riding longer, more fun and comfortable. Rocketman, my hubby, did this install. Advise if you need shortcut directions.
 
I was just reading can-am talks ,there is a post but a guy that had a riser installed and his shaft broke just below the nut when installing riser.by a factory tech with a torque wrench. (49nm) may be to tight or shaft to soft.wildwillie
 
wildwillie said:
I was just reading can-am talks ,there is a post but a guy that had a riser installed and his shaft broke just below the nut when installing riser.by a factory tech with a torque wrench. (49nm) may be to tight or shaft to soft.wildwillie

I've seen more bolts broken with torque wrenches than without. ::) I never use a torque wrench on stuff like that but I was a Ironworker for 20 years or so and I've torqued a few bolts in my day. ;D :doorag:
 
I have seen more than a few cases in which fasteners are improperly heat treated... causing hydrogen embritlement. The bolts cannot withstand standard torque levels and even if they don't snap are frequently weakened and cracked.
I hope this is not a systemic problem with one of BRP's suppliers. :dontknow:
 
Lamonster said:
I've seen more bolts broken with torque wrenches than without. ::) I never use a torque wrench on stuff like that but I was a Ironworker for 20 years or so and I've torqued a few bolts in my day. ;D :doorag:
Big problem with the modern ratchet type torque wrenches is that people don't back them off when storing them. The spring inside eventually takes a set, and causes the actual torque to be more than the reading. I remember my first incident with this, installing chrome moly head studs in a dragster engine, with a borrowed torque wrench. Broke the HD studs! Put the ratchet up against a beam type wrench and it was way off. Now I alway check calibration of my torque wrenches against a beam wrench regularly.
-Scotty
 
Lamonster said:
I've seen more bolts broken with torque wrenches than without. ::) I never use a torque wrench on stuff like that but I was a Ironworker for 20 years or so and I've torqued a few bolts in my day. ;D :doorag:

i mostly just "torque" people off! ;D ::)

ps..trap door spider count increase :spyder:
 
I decided to take a different approach to the riser mod. I installed some pullback handlebars and I am now designing a new center handlebar cover that will incorporate options for mounting a gps and xm radio and a cup holder, etc. The new cover will allow various choices of handle bars and can even be used with the stock bars and BRP riser if desired. Here is a pic of the pullback bars installed, awaiting the prototype new center cover and gps mounts. I will probably make 2 different sets of handlebars with different rise.
CIMG5836a.jpg


Mad Mtt ;D ;D
 
Trypod said:
I put the riser on myself...took about 30 mins (except for dropping the top inside screw twice and having to go fishing for it, another story, another time)...

How long does the install take, I have early instructions from this site that have you pratically taking the whole bike apart...but this post says only 30 minutes? Is there a change in the procedure that can shorten the time that dramatically? My husband hasn't gotten started on this project because of the time involved, but we've got a long ride coming up and I'd like to get it finished.

Any thoughts? Or change in instructions?
 
TrailerTrash said:
How long does the install take, I have early instructions from this site that have you pratically taking the whole bike apart...but this post says only 30 minutes? Is there a change in the procedure that can shorten the time that dramatically? My husband hasn't gotten started on this project because of the time involved, but we've got a long ride coming up and I'd like to get it finished.

Any thoughts? Or change in instructions?

TT, I don't have a service manual yet so i followed the directions that came with the riser. The instructions are very good and are step-by-step. The only nut i used a torque wrench on we the center nut putting the new riser on. The most difficult time i had was the 2 upper/inner screws (i kept dropping them down the neck). I would assume that even with minimal mechanical skills the job wouldn't take over an hour and a half. From what ya'll have done, should be no problem. As far as taking the whole bike apart, the instructions make it sound in depth but in actuallity all you are taking off are the clutch lever/cylinder (as a unit), loosening the throttle grip and sliding it back, then removing the bar cover (where your PE and # are), remove the clamp (3 bolts), lay the bar over, remove the yoke nut, then reverse the order, DONE!! Don't forget to put a cover over the "tank" and guage cluster to keep from scratching your baby. Hopefully, i haven't confused the issue any more. ::)
 
I've heard the torque NM in the installation manual for the riser is too high and will be
lowered in future manuals. So I suggest not to tighten the center nut to much...
 
I got my riser today! After reading instructions found out I needed a wheel puller.

Is that really necessary?

2faston3
 
2faston3 said:
I got my riser today! After reading instructions found out I needed a wheel puller.

Is that really necessary?

2faston3
Probably, the original riser is realy hard to get of
 
i used a harmonic balancer puller worked great :bigthumbsup:you can ushually rent 1 for a day at most auto parts stores for a small price.
 
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