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Riser install tip

Lamonster

SpyderLovers Founder
When I installed the risers on Ron's Spyder I had a real problem with the wire that goes to the clutch switch. It was short and I didn't know why, mine had plenty of slack. :dontknow:

When I did his fog lights I found out why. There was a ziptie that I missed that was keeping me from getting the slack I needed. Here's where that little booger is, or at least on his.

picture.php
 
Haha, I had one there as well. However I cut the tie with the front pod still on the bike. Let's just say I must be double jointed of sorts.


When I installed the risers on Ron's Spyder I had a real problem with the wire that goes to the clutch switch. It was short and I didn't know why, mine had plenty of slack. :dontknow:

When I did his fog lights I found out why. There was a ziptie that I missed that was keeping me from getting the slack I needed. Here's where that little booger is, or at least on his.

picture.php
 
wire ties for riser install

When I installed the risers on Ron's Spyder I had a real problem with the wire that goes to the clutch switch. It was short and I didn't know why, mine had plenty of slack. :dontknow:

When I did his fog lights I found out why. There was a ziptie that I missed that was keeping me from getting the slack I needed. Here's where that little booger is, or at least on his.





picture.php

can you get to this ziptie without removing the trunk????having trouble getting slack of for the wires to the head light switch,looks like its tied off
somewhere about the same place but unable to see. and what has to be done to remove trunk?
 
riser install problem

can you get to this ziptie without removing the trunk????having trouble getting slack of for the wires to the head light switch,looks like its tied off
somewhere about the same place but unable to see. and what has to be done to remove trunk?

I spent most of the day on Sat and all of Sun re-routing the clutch cables because they were too short for the 4" risers. I tried it every which way and ended up doing it the "stock" way but I feel very uncomfortable with it because there is absolutely no freeplay in it. The cable is too tight when the handbars are turned completely to the right. I cut 2 or 3 cable ties but I didn't take the trunk out to put the risers on and possible may have missed one. Guess I know what I'll be doing on my day off tomorrow. By the way, the directions No Magic Neon provides shouldn't be called directions. They are more like "guidelines" and downplay any re-routing needs. If people had any idea what a pain in the butt this is they wouldn't bother. I ended up taking most of the spyder apart. The trunk is about the only thing on the front end that didn't come off.
 
Maybe someone has a tip on removing the two center bolts underneath the steering plate cover? I got the top two off and the bottom two, but those middle two seem tricky to get at.
 
Riser Install Problem

lightman02 You say it's right behind the trunk.
? I guess Lamonster took it off.
OK, I just went into the garage with a copy of Lamonster's pic of the cable tie. It's not behind the trunk. This is one of the cable ties I removed yesterday and I'm still having a problem with the length of the throttle cables with 4" risers. To get to the one in Lamonster's pic, you need to take off the windshield, turning signals and entire top console and it is clearly visible from there. I researched throttle cables on the Internet and no one makes them for the Spyder. I'd have to remove mine and bring them in somewhere for a custom job to make it about 3" longer for a fit that is comfortable and safe. I'm hesitant to ride my Spyder as is. Glad I don't have to make u-turn while turning right.
 
Maybe someone has a tip on removing the two center bolts underneath the steering plate cover? I got the top two off and the bottom two, but those middle two seem tricky to get at.

Use a short 1" socket extension.

BTW, glad to see you over here! :thumbup:

.
 
OK, I just went into the garage with a copy of Lamonster's pic of the cable tie. It's not behind the trunk. This is one of the cable ties I removed yesterday and I'm still having a problem with the length of the throttle cables with 4" risers. To get to the one in Lamonster's pic, you need to take off the windshield, turning signals and entire top console and it is clearly visible from there. I researched throttle cables on the Internet and no one makes them for the Spyder. I'd have to remove mine and bring them in somewhere for a custom job to make it about 3" longer for a fit that is comfortable and safe. I'm hesitant to ride my Spyder as is. Glad I don't have to make u-turn while turning right.


Somethings has to be up with the way your cables are reouted from BRP? :dontknow:

We have about 300 of these kits now out there and installed by many DYI installers and there are not the problems you mention.

Lamonster now has over 10,000 miles on his 4 inch riser kit with no such problems.

Our own new SE5 with the 4 inch kit has no problems with the cable length for the throttle?

Somewhere under the body panels there is ether a cable tie hidden or it is in the route the factory brought your cables up to the bars?

But unless you have something totally weird with your bike, there should be enough slack in all the lines and cables. That is the reason we made these kits the length we did, because this is a length that works with the stock cables and wires the Spyder comes with from BRP.

If you're still stuck, give us a call and I'll try to see if we can help figure out what's what with your Spyder.

MM
 
It took me 5 and 1/2 hrs to put mine on. I had to reroute everything even the trunk release cable. And my clutch wires are still tight. I have to look for that cable tie (Lamonster) that I might have missed. I believe I cut 4 ties so far.
I'm thinking it might be easyer to just cut the wires and add a couple inches of wire to them. But I hate to do that.
 
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Somethings has to be up with the way your cables are reouted from BRP? :dontknow:

We have about 300 of these kits now out there and installed by many DYI installers and there are not the problems you mention.

Lamonster now has over 10,000 miles on his 4 inch riser kit with no such problems.

Our own new SE5 with the 4 inch kit has no problems with the cable length for the throttle?

Somewhere under the body panels there is ether a cable tie hidden or it is in the route the factory brought your cables up to the bars?

But unless you have something totally weird with your bike, there should be enough slack in all the lines and cables. That is the reason we made these kits the length we did, because this is a length that works with the stock cables and wires the Spyder comes with from BRP.

If you're still stuck, give us a call and I'll try to see if we can help figure out what's what with your Spyder.

MM
We took off all the panels as well and followed the cables from begining to end. There is definitely not enough slack. In fact, there is no slack at all. Had to buy a plastic tip for the metal hook where the cables used to go under (one fits and the other doesn't). Because there is no slack on one cable we couldn't put it under the hook and now it crosses over the tip of the hook. I was afraid it might chafe or bind so I put a tip on it. Speaking of binding. In any other configuration of routing (other than stock), the throttle sticks in the accelerated position when 4" up. It didn't stick when we held it up at about 3" and lower. With alternate routing, the problem is a combination of the 90 degree elbow on the hand grip assembly and the sweep up from the linkage at the engine that causes the throttle to stick in the accelerated position. Very frustrating!
 
Somethings has to be up with the way your cables are reouted from BRP? :dontknow:

We have about 300 of these kits now out there and installed by many DYI installers and there are not the problems you mention.

Lamonster now has over 10,000 miles on his 4 inch riser kit with no such problems.

Our own new SE5 with the 4 inch kit has no problems with the cable length for the throttle?

Somewhere under the body panels there is ether a cable tie hidden or it is in the route the factory brought your cables up to the bars?

But unless you have something totally weird with your bike, there should be enough slack in all the lines and cables. That is the reason we made these kits the length we did, because this is a length that works with the stock cables and wires the Spyder comes with from BRP.

If you're still stuck, give us a call and I'll try to see if we can help figure out what's what with your Spyder.

MM
In my first email about the problem, I said clutch cables. I actually meant throttle cables. I don't have a clutch. The electrical cables are fine with plenty of slack. It's the throttle cables that are too tight.
 
When I installed mine, the only problem I had was the throttle side bar was a little to large to fit into the riser, put it one a fine grinding wheel, and made a few turns. I installed the 3in risers, as I had the 1in BRP riser. Didn't have to remove any body panels, only had to pull up the rubber around the steering and cut a few cable ties, and give them a little tug. At full lock the cables are fairly tight, but not overly tight. I think, that when they installed my BRP riser, any rerouting or lower cable ties that need to be removed was done. I'm very happy with them. Jeff, my dealer said he wished he had these when he made the Kyle Petty ride.

Wayne
 
Installed my risers over the weekend - Lamonster was dead-on - after I clipped that cable tie in his photo, problem solved!:clap:
 
Spydergirl, I have a small socket set you can borrow. I used it to put my riser on. Do you have a gear puller? Have one of those too. I can bring it with me if we ride this weekend.
Pat
 
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