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Riser/barback other than NMN???

TONI

New member
I have the 1" Can-Am riser but the bars are still too low & too far away from me. Are they any risers/barbacks besides NMN? I don't really care for the looks of them and bsides, I don't need 3" lift. Just need maybe about 2" higher & closer to ease the strain in my arms & shoulders.
 
I have the 1" Can-Am riser but the bars are still too low & too far away from me. Are they any risers/barbacks besides NMN? I don't really care for the looks of them and bsides, I don't need 3" lift. Just need maybe about 2" higher & closer to ease the strain in my arms & shoulders.
KewlMetal makes a replacement bar and cover. There is another one, too, but I forget what it is. Those and the NMN risers are about all there is other than the BRP 1" riser.
-Scotty
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I have the kewlmetal bars and love them. I went with the 5" pullback bars ontop of the 1" brp riser and its a perfect position for me. You do have to change the console out to use the kewlmetal bars but it gives you a lot more mounting options. These pics were taken when i first installed the bars prior to adding the Cup holder,GPS, and Ipod.

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KewlMetal Bars

I recenly ordered a bunch of goodies from KewlMetal including 7" bars, plain black center consol, Peg mounts and Widow pegs, and mirror extensions.

I also ordered a Throttlemeister but since the inside diameter of the KewlMetal handlebars are different than stock, .675 vs what ever stock is, Fred at Throttlemeister said the FH & AZ5-H should work fine. :clap:

Hopefully the handlebar install won't be too difficult for someone that's all thumbs. I'm a little concerned about removing the stock consol. :yikes:
 
Care to elaborate? Got any tips or tricks? :popcorn:

Permit me, if you will.

It's just a pain-in-the-butt to get to the back side of the stock handlebar covers to remove the bolts.

First suggestion: remove the top "colored" cover first.

And, there are two different hex-head bolt sizes, BTW. If I recall, they are 8mm and 10mm.

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Care to elaborate? Got any tips or tricks? :popcorn:
First thing I would do is wrap a towel or sheet around the steering stem so you can find the little bitty screws that you will most likely drop into the black hole.:(

There are 4 that you can see and two that are very hard to see but you can feel them. You'll need a 1/4 drive socket with a short extension along with a 8mm and 10mm socket.

The ignition cover has a slot in it so you just turn it and pull out. There is a bracket that two bolts thread into that have to be removed too. You can unhook the two cables that are above the bolts.

To me is was a real pain but maybe it won't be to you. :dontknow:

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I have sat back quietly for this post so far as many people will say that of course I am bias on this topic. Which to a certain degree is correct, as of course I do like how our design fits and looks, or I would not have made the risers the way we did. :D

I also totally realize that taste is a very "personal thing" and what one person loves, another will hate. :dontknow:

But, I can say 100% in a totally unbiased way for sure that the top plate on a Spyder is a nightmare to remove and even more fun to try to reinstall. :yikes:

It was one of the major considerations took into account when designing a riser system so that it would not require a person to have to do this unpleasant job at home. :shocked:

We felt that the removal of this top plate would be more of a "challange" than most owners would want to get involved in, and we wanted our kit to be able to be installed by the "average owner" at home themselves.

That and not having to loose the top cover plate, as I like many PE owners did not want to loose their PE plates on the cover. :thumbup:

MM
 
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