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riding style and shock setting

pdxgoldwing

New member
I got my new spyder today and found something a little disturbing....In the past I have rode almost every kind of bike or atv there is. I have found out that I even ride the spyder kind of aggressive. The situation is this...when I corner, the front really dips into the corner...is this something I have to get used to or what?...is there a way to stiffen up the front suspension?...also, the rear seems kind of high. It even looks high...I would really like to lower the whole thing, get a lower center of gravity. I'm kind of tall anyway..6'5"...286 lbs. any thoughts?..I would like to keep it kind of stock for now til I get more miles under me...Is there a shock or shocks settings I should know about?....thanks for any help....
 
I have a 2010 RT with 24k miles. After I got it I adj the shocks to the highest point 5 then played with the air in the front starting at 32 psi ended up at 28 psi the rear is at 25 psi any more then that wears out the center of the tire. I rotate the front every 10k they still look good. I'am 6"2 ,250 lb I love the ride.
 
skocks

I have 6000 on my 2010 rt and the rear shock is gone had to order a new one,the tires are doing well an noticed one fellow running 28lb? book says 15,28 rears I do agree 15 seems a bit low.

As far as the front shocks,I run them as tight as I can get them,If you are rich the elka shocks are for you.

Dick:ani29:
 
The front spring preload can be adjusted. There is a tool in your toolkit, and the procedure is in your manual. I recommend jacking up the Spyder and spraying the adjusters with WD-40 before adjusting. Carrying more air than recommended (which is the minimum pressure listed on the tire sidewall) seems to help, too. I run 18 in the RTS and 20 on the RS, but your best pressure may differ. Riding technique, namely leaning your upper body into the turns, will help, too. The 2010 Spyder RT had quite severe body roll. This was helped with new shocks for 2011. They are a vast improvement! If you have a 2010 RT, replacing the shocks, adjusting rings, and ring protectors with the 2011 parts is a big help...or you could purchase aftermarket shocks.
 
A lot of folks talk about replacing shocks and the front swaybar... But try bumping up the preload first just to see if that suits you... it's the easiest and cheapest thing to try first! :thumbup:
(I went up one notch on mine...:2thumbs:)
 
shocks

i set my shocks on 5. full stiffness, huge improvement, but could use more.:thumbup:
 
You don't say whether you have the RS or RT. I see most comments above are for the RT. I will address the RS as that's what I have.

Stock shocks, bumped all the way up to stiffest setting and 20 psi front 30 psi rear, it still handled like crap. It "swam" on the highway. And I could barely go the speed limit on local roads because it dove so much in the corners.

I got the Evoluzione Sway Bar and the 2011 RT shocks put on this year. A HUGE difference!!! And I ryde two up with hubby on the back. So his extra weight rides high on the Spyder and our combined weight is certainly more than you weigh.

No need to "lower" the rear. Stiffen up the front and you will be a happy camper. I now run 18.5 psi front and 30 psi rear. Handles great. Fantastic would be more like it!! You won't regret these mods. Handles like night and day difference. Love the highway now! 75+ No problem. Zip right along on local roads. In fact, hubby reminded me to watch my speed when we were out ryding this morning!!!

Hope you sort your Spyder out soon. It's an entirely new beast with these modifications.
 
I did the same mods, and got the same results as DynamoBT did, on my 2008 GS. Stock Spyders wallow in the twisties, IMHO.
 
Call lenn at Cowtown and see if he has a set of take-.offs from an 2011 RT that he has put Elka shocks on. Less $$$ than ordering the parts
 
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