I'm new here, and just got my Ryker. I want to ride it on Forestry Roads and would like just a bit more clearance - maybe just 1" or so. I know I would have to reset the camber but I doubt that 1" in height would would cause problems with the VSS. But I don't know for sure...... has anyone raised theirs yet and if so, any feedback?
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Ride Height
- Thread starter Huck
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I designed brackets that could change the ride height, up /down or the same ( and also improve the OEM shock and spring ) ... for my 08 GS , 11 RSS and my 14 RT.... I have examined the the Frame of the Ryker and feel confident a secure bracket could be made to fit ..... un-fortunately I don't have a Ryker to work on ..... good luck ..... Mike
While raising the ride height 1" or so is very unlikely to upset the VSS much at all, and could well be possible for someone like Mike ^^ to fabricate up something, I reckon you'd be a lot better off by increasing your ground clearance thru using taller tires rather than trying to lift the Ryker via the suspension, changing the Ryker's suspension & steering geometry, and risking all the issues/difficulties that can bring!! :lecturef_smilie:
Besides, raising the suspension might lift the body of the Ryker a bit higher, but it won't lift the the suspension arms & steering knuckles etc that are out where they are close to the tires - anything out at the end of the suspension arms will still remain exposed to hitting &/or catching on rocks, tree branches, mud etc, even if the Ryker's belly isn't scraping quite so much!! AND you'll lose some 'down travel' on your suspension too, because it's going to be pushed further into the 'droop' cycle to give you the lift, possibly causing it & your shocks to 'top out' more often &/or hit the susp arm travel stops more often due to no more droop available; as well as increasing the pre-load on the coils and over-all, making for a much harsher ride!! :sour:
However, even without all those downsides, there is NO easy way of correcting the camber if you raise the ride height via adjusting the suspension - you may well find the easiest way to correct and return the camber to something useable is to fabricate & fit a/market suspension arms; either adjustable or of different lengths/angles to the OE units! And that might not be easy or cheap, unless you can do it yourself?!? :dontknow:
But it would probably be a fair bit cheaper and a whole lot easier simply to fit tires with a higher sidewall profile and instantly gain extra ground clearance for EVERYTHING, suspension arms, spindles, steering, etc; albeit not quite so much lift for every 1" tire dia increase, and with possibly a minor impact on your Ryker's 'final drive' gearing - giving you marginally less low down acceleration that would be offset by a better top speed or lower revs for 'speed over the ground', altho your speedo might not reflect that, simply becoming 'more accurate' when compared to your 'actual speed over the ground' rather than showing anything different! And you might hafta use spacers or longer fender support arms to keep the fenders clear of the taller tires! But over-all, that should be a whole lot easier & cheaper to do; more effective at lifting EVERYTHING without changing your steering or suspension geometry AT ALL; and giving you an opportunity to pick a better quality &/or different/more suitable and stronger tire into the bargain! And IMHO, that's all round a whole lot better & smarter option!!
hyea:
So I'd be looking at fitting taller tires before even thinking about lifting the Ryker via the suspension! :thumbup:
Besides, raising the suspension might lift the body of the Ryker a bit higher, but it won't lift the the suspension arms & steering knuckles etc that are out where they are close to the tires - anything out at the end of the suspension arms will still remain exposed to hitting &/or catching on rocks, tree branches, mud etc, even if the Ryker's belly isn't scraping quite so much!! AND you'll lose some 'down travel' on your suspension too, because it's going to be pushed further into the 'droop' cycle to give you the lift, possibly causing it & your shocks to 'top out' more often &/or hit the susp arm travel stops more often due to no more droop available; as well as increasing the pre-load on the coils and over-all, making for a much harsher ride!! :sour:
However, even without all those downsides, there is NO easy way of correcting the camber if you raise the ride height via adjusting the suspension - you may well find the easiest way to correct and return the camber to something useable is to fabricate & fit a/market suspension arms; either adjustable or of different lengths/angles to the OE units! And that might not be easy or cheap, unless you can do it yourself?!? :dontknow:
But it would probably be a fair bit cheaper and a whole lot easier simply to fit tires with a higher sidewall profile and instantly gain extra ground clearance for EVERYTHING, suspension arms, spindles, steering, etc; albeit not quite so much lift for every 1" tire dia increase, and with possibly a minor impact on your Ryker's 'final drive' gearing - giving you marginally less low down acceleration that would be offset by a better top speed or lower revs for 'speed over the ground', altho your speedo might not reflect that, simply becoming 'more accurate' when compared to your 'actual speed over the ground' rather than showing anything different! And you might hafta use spacers or longer fender support arms to keep the fenders clear of the taller tires! But over-all, that should be a whole lot easier & cheaper to do; more effective at lifting EVERYTHING without changing your steering or suspension geometry AT ALL; and giving you an opportunity to pick a better quality &/or different/more suitable and stronger tire into the bargain! And IMHO, that's all round a whole lot better & smarter option!!
hyea:So I'd be looking at fitting taller tires before even thinking about lifting the Ryker via the suspension! :thumbup:
Last edited:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
:agree: with your logic ..... However a taller sidewall will have to be quite a bit taller to achieve any real clearance and then it's not likely to fit inside the fender .... WITHOUT also altering the fender brackets ..... good luck ..... Mike :thumbup:
I have tried to find taller tires. I found a marginally taller rear tire - about .4 inch if I recall, but found no taller front tires. I even thought about having new front 3 piece wheels made that would fit the Ryker hubs and a taller tire already on the market, but that is real spendy! I've only had it a day and haven't had time to inspect it much, but usually you just make a spacer/bracket for the top of the shock/spring assembly - like a leveling kit on a Chevy, GMC or Jeep (I have a shop). This pushes the A arms down and the entire rest of the bike up. You keep the original shocks and travel. Using a jack to lift the front, I can't visually see a change in the camber, but it would have to change some. I'll check it with a camber alignment tool. There is no adjustment except for moving the A-arm brackets or cutting and rewelding the upper A-arms just a bit. I would really prefer a taller tire - especially in the back as that would lower the RPMs at highway speed. Lose a little off the line, but not too much unless you're racing another Ryker. May have to raise the rear fender, but that wouldn't be too hard. I would love to hear if anyone else has found a taller tire that would fit the stock wheels.
chris56
Active member
I use 400mm front-shocks instead of the 380mm ones (the Rally and the Standard have the same length ..) - no problem with the VSS - there are also some others who use these, on the market there would be also 390mm shocks (Moto Guzzi) which should work fine - I have now around 6 inch (unloaded) ground clearance - is OK for me..
(I love the Ryker, but to ride with a radiator 4 inch over the ground (unloaded !) is impossible on the roads here in Austria ..)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO_yEVRAGD8&t=18s
(I love the Ryker, but to ride with a radiator 4 inch over the ground (unloaded !) is impossible on the roads here in Austria ..)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO_yEVRAGD8&t=18s
Attachments
Thats pretty good clearance. In you video the rear even looks higher, did you do anything with the rear shock or tighten up the rear shock spring any?
Thanks for sharing that! Yes, I was mostly worried about the radiator, even though I got the guard, it wouldn't help much hitting a rock at even at a slow speed. I'm guessing you didn't raise the back? as there is pretty good clearance back there, and the bottom would maybe just drag over something unlike the front edge which would take a direct hit.
Do you notice much difference in the ride or handling on the highway? Can you tell me the shock brand or what else they fit?
Thanks again!
Last edited by a moderator:
chris56
Active member
I use the FOX on the rear in the hardest adjustment which is possible, touched the rear fender several times, when it was only in the "middle" position when they installed it. The FOX is still more comfortable than the Rally Version what we also testet for a weekend. And the Rally shocks on the front are so stiff and hard, did not want them on my Standard 900 ..
I use the higher handlebars and a seat without the "lip" on the back, so I my weight is more on the back, and the front-shocks have not so much work. The handling in this position is for me much better, we ride on our "Autobahn" around 80 miles/hour (max allowed here) and ride 2up sometimes eight hours a day (up to 12.000 feet !)
These front shocks are in the softest position and have no problem with 400lbs load 2up with luggage, she is still very comfortable, I would say the handling on higher speed is better "full-loaded than when I ride alone - in the reality I never change anything on the shocks solo or 2up .. would be too much work ..
(search for RFY shocks 400mm - you need 4pcs of the 12mm to 10mm tubes..)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO_yEVRAGD8&t=1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMlDtJwZDv0&t=99s
I use the higher handlebars and a seat without the "lip" on the back, so I my weight is more on the back, and the front-shocks have not so much work. The handling in this position is for me much better, we ride on our "Autobahn" around 80 miles/hour (max allowed here) and ride 2up sometimes eight hours a day (up to 12.000 feet !)
These front shocks are in the softest position and have no problem with 400lbs load 2up with luggage, she is still very comfortable, I would say the handling on higher speed is better "full-loaded than when I ride alone - in the reality I never change anything on the shocks solo or 2up .. would be too much work ..
(search for RFY shocks 400mm - you need 4pcs of the 12mm to 10mm tubes..)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO_yEVRAGD8&t=1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMlDtJwZDv0&t=99s
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