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Replacing windshield arm
- Thread starter SpyderCruiser
- Start date
cognaccruiser
New member
And I used a Sharpie "Metallic Silver" permanent which seems to work as well as white.
OverHillAndDale: Good luck. As I posted in my thread on this, heat seemed to help get the Phillips heads out. Let us all know how it goes.
Gary
OverHillAndDale: Good luck. As I posted in my thread on this, heat seemed to help get the Phillips heads out. Let us all know how it goes.
Gary
agedbikeman
New member
Hello Spyder Friends,
Meg and I are heading to Valcourt this year, as many of you are. And we hope to meet many of you there.
I am the type that is always concerned about what issues with the Spyder can ruin a trip like this. Our Spyder has been flawless and has never let us down, but doo doo happens! nojoke The one flaw I keep coming back to is the windshield arm.
Many of you have had that arm break as many as 2 times, and it would really suck if it were to break on a trip like this. I had purchased the windshield arm from noboot (Ron), just to have in case mine ever broke. Then I started thinking of the interstate speeds we will be traveling at, and the stress on that arm. The thought of Spydering down the road with a windshield on my lap did not appeal to either one of us. And we always ride with it fully up, so mine has been stressed since new. With that thought in mind, we decided to change it yesterday, and have one less thing to worry about.
Ron provides great written instructions with the arm, but has an excellent video here
Followed all the steps in the video and all went well until it came time to remove that little screw from the end of the gear. Being a electronics guy, I have every type and size of screwdriver imaginable. A pozidriv Philips seemed to fit the screw well without slipping. The issue I experienced was that the screw was starting to break apart before loosening.:gaah: No doubt caused by the copious amounts of Loctite BRP uses on all their screws. Could not use heat to free the Loctite, as the plastic gear would melt. Rather then break the head off of the screw, decided to remove the magnet end. We marked the magnet well so after reassembly it would still be in the proper place.
We used a bearing separator from harbor freight, and placed it under the magnet.
We then flipped it over and used 2 screw drivers to pry the old arm and shaft up out of the magnet.
We would up using larger screwdrivers then shown, it initially was really stuck on there. Meg was holding the gear on top as I pried. I expected it to come off slowly, but it let go and moved quickly when free.
You can see from the paint marks, the plastic is engaged rather deeply on the shaft.
Installed the new arm following the steps in the video. Installed the magnet back in the bearing separator like this.
Gently used a rubber mallet tapping the gear and shaft back into the magnet.
Everything went back together well and worked fine. I would recommend using some tef-gel http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor as I did on the bushings that are in the aluminum windshield frame. The bushings are brass and the frame is aluminum and they were a little tough to get out due to corrosion from dissimilar metals.
Hope this is helpful, Take Care, Louie and Meg :riding:
Thanks for your video, very helpful. At times I'd be sunk without guys like you puting videos here. Cheers. :yes:
I don't see that it matters if the screw on the gear wheel is broken, the gear is on a hex shaft and its position on shaft does not matter, only the magnet end matters. Without the screw and the unit in position with the caps on, where is it going to go, it's not a constantly rotating machine, it's an occasional 1/2 turn in each direction once or twice a day. My screw is broken and it's not going back, no Locktite either. Important thing is to grease all the bushing parts on the way back.
Thanks again,
Alex
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Isopedella
Well-known member
check out post #23
davehirst
New member
So I went to Harbor Freight on Sat afternoon. Bought the Bearing splitter kit as the only single small one they had was in the kit. Spent $54.00 on it. This morning tried and the magnet popped right off. Hallelujah!! Put the bike back together and all is well. The only other problem I had was when I popped the cover off of the magnet side of the lift mechanism, it flew into the big hole just above the unit. Try as I might, I could not find it so, I fashioned a piece of plastic about the same size, drilled 2 holes and put it on in it's place. I figure all it does is keep dirt off of the magnet. Seems to be working well. Thanks for the info.
Can't remove the cover that the risers go through. All risers have a sleeve in them that won't move, and they won't separate from the cover which has to lift through the risers.
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noboot
Member
Try using a bit of heat to the screws, that has worked with many people.
Noboot, where do I look for the crack on my 2015 RT and do I need to remove anything to get to it? Thanks
Hey, heated the sleeves with a soldering gun; then replaced a screw but not all the way in; and then beat on the screw until the whole sleeve slid a bit. Took the screw out and punched the sleeve the rest of the way out. I have punched on the sleeve a good bit before and it wouldn't move, but after the heat, I punched hard enough till it did move!
Thank you.
Thank you.
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noboot
Member
If you go this web site and scroll down you will see a pic of one with a crack. Normally you can see if it's starting to crack without moving any parts. https://www.ozspyderryders.com.au/spyder-items-for-sale/
How may I contact you to order the replacement arm? Thank you
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Click on noboot's username in the post immediately above yours; then click on the Private Message button; add a title to the PM on the entry screen that will come up; type in your request, including any contact details you wish to share; and submit the PM! :thumbup:
Then just wait, while you watch for the Flashing Red 'Notification' in the top Right corner of the page that tells you there's a PM waiting for you to read
That said, noboot was on the Forum yesterday, and he usually visits fairly regularly, so he might see your post first and either post a response here (not the ideal way of moving ahead) or send you a PM with his contact details (the preferred option) :thumbup: Shouldn't take too long, but if you are getting concerned, drop me a PM & I'll give him a hoi!
hyea:
KX5062
Active member
Agreed! :2thumbs:
flash2002
Member
I was riding today and all of a sudden, the windshield collapsed. When I got home, I notice the part that raised the windshield was broken in half. I looked on-line for the part but, they don't seem to sell this part. So I'm in the process to fixing this part, hope it works. I can't understand how this piece can break like that, it is made strong.
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BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Right after I bought my 14 RT, I decided the windshield ARM was problematic. At that time, BRP would ONLY sell you the entire windshield assembly for about $800.00; now you can buy it as a single piece, or better yet, buy one from "noboot"! I lucked out and bought a broken arm from a member here. It was broken in half, but in good shape. I JBweld-ed it together to keep its exact shape. I love JB, but still didn't trust it. I can weld, so I filled in in all vacant voids with JB and then made two shaped side pieces from 18ga flat stock; glued them on; and then made a narrow band around the entire assembly. I tack welded that band to the side pieces. Any pro welder could do the welding for you (cheaply too). This piece has been on for 75,000+ miles now - it will NEVER break! If you go with the one from "noboot", follow his direction about the magnets; they need to be aligned correctly. There are vids on 'How This Is Done' that will help. Mike :thumbup:
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