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Replacing the rear tire on your Spyder - Video
- Thread starter finless
- Start date
jcthorne
Well-known member
Thanks for the feedback. Look forward to them on our bikes.
Just FYI, the actual width of the Yokohama S-Drive 205/55-15 is 8.6 inches as reported by Yokohama. Yokos usually do run on the wider side of nominal sizes on their performance tires. Actual diameter is 23.9 inches and revolutions per mile is 871 but I do not have the actual specs for the Kenda to compare to.
Just FYI, the actual width of the Yokohama S-Drive 205/55-15 is 8.6 inches as reported by Yokohama. Yokos usually do run on the wider side of nominal sizes on their performance tires. Actual diameter is 23.9 inches and revolutions per mile is 871 but I do not have the actual specs for the Kenda to compare to.
cognaccruiser
New member
Nervous but so far so good
Well I guess I'm about half way there on my 2014 RTS. I have the rear wheel off and will have to wait until next week to get the tire changed. I use, when ever possible, a local independent bike shop for tires and a few other things. A great guy and his wife run it. Very honest and very competent so I like to give him any business I can. He's closed Mondays like most bike shops so will set it up Tuesday.
A few observations.
Yes I needed a small pair of vice grips to hold the back of the shock sensor arm to remove the bolt.
When removing the bolt from the bottom of the shock, it was necessary to adjust the height of the jack to make sliding the bolt out easier.
There didn't appear to be any shim on either of the bolts holding the brake assembly on. Nothing fell out. I'm a little nervous about putting the brake assembly back on only because of having to slide the brake pads over the disk. Probably just me looking for something to be anxious about.
I didn't disconnect the ABS sensor but was very careful about resting the assembly on some blocks of wood and not stressing the wire.
I took the disk off from the drum but left the drum on and hope I can get the tire changed that way. Not a big deal if I have to remove it.
Removing the belt sprocket turned out to be a lot easier than I expected based on Bob's comments. I marked the position of each of the rubber pads with numbers and will replace them in the same order. Not sure if it matters but have marked the disk so it will go back in the same position too.
The nut holding the axel was pretty tight. Had to buy a 36mm socket and had to order a 36 mm combination wrench. Nobody locally had one. But the axel slid out quite easily. One of the things I did a little differently was that I removed the painted body work behind the trunk and the black plastic fender that holds the license. Pretty easy to remove thanks to information posted by others on SL and it made it easy to just roll the wheel out once the axel was out.
Man, that yellow loc tite stuff BRP uses is pretty tough. Will put a tiny amount of blue loc tite on the bolts that had yellow. Nothing that goes any where near plastic.
One thing I'm not sure about is how much torque to use when replacing bolts like the brake disk. I believe 35 lbs/ft for the drum but I may not have to remove it. Is the rear axel nut 150 lbs/ft? My torque wrench only goes to 150. I don't know what to use for the bolts holding the brake assembly on the Spyder or the bolt holding the shock.
Almost chickened out of doing this but hated to go to the dealer and wanted to do it myself to learn. Also, my belt was going to need a slight adjustment as it had become too tight to the inside flange. It was fine earlier but now I can't even get my finger nail between the belt and the flange on the sprocket so want to be able to do those adjustments myself. I'll do it when I put everything back together. Hope it goes back together as easy as it came apart.
Thanks to Bob, Lamont and all those that post how to do things on this forum. It is very much appreciated.
Gary
Well I guess I'm about half way there on my 2014 RTS. I have the rear wheel off and will have to wait until next week to get the tire changed. I use, when ever possible, a local independent bike shop for tires and a few other things. A great guy and his wife run it. Very honest and very competent so I like to give him any business I can. He's closed Mondays like most bike shops so will set it up Tuesday.
A few observations.
Yes I needed a small pair of vice grips to hold the back of the shock sensor arm to remove the bolt.
When removing the bolt from the bottom of the shock, it was necessary to adjust the height of the jack to make sliding the bolt out easier.
There didn't appear to be any shim on either of the bolts holding the brake assembly on. Nothing fell out. I'm a little nervous about putting the brake assembly back on only because of having to slide the brake pads over the disk. Probably just me looking for something to be anxious about.
I didn't disconnect the ABS sensor but was very careful about resting the assembly on some blocks of wood and not stressing the wire.
I took the disk off from the drum but left the drum on and hope I can get the tire changed that way. Not a big deal if I have to remove it.
Removing the belt sprocket turned out to be a lot easier than I expected based on Bob's comments. I marked the position of each of the rubber pads with numbers and will replace them in the same order. Not sure if it matters but have marked the disk so it will go back in the same position too.
The nut holding the axel was pretty tight. Had to buy a 36mm socket and had to order a 36 mm combination wrench. Nobody locally had one. But the axel slid out quite easily. One of the things I did a little differently was that I removed the painted body work behind the trunk and the black plastic fender that holds the license. Pretty easy to remove thanks to information posted by others on SL and it made it easy to just roll the wheel out once the axel was out.
Man, that yellow loc tite stuff BRP uses is pretty tough. Will put a tiny amount of blue loc tite on the bolts that had yellow. Nothing that goes any where near plastic.
One thing I'm not sure about is how much torque to use when replacing bolts like the brake disk. I believe 35 lbs/ft for the drum but I may not have to remove it. Is the rear axel nut 150 lbs/ft? My torque wrench only goes to 150. I don't know what to use for the bolts holding the brake assembly on the Spyder or the bolt holding the shock.
Almost chickened out of doing this but hated to go to the dealer and wanted to do it myself to learn. Also, my belt was going to need a slight adjustment as it had become too tight to the inside flange. It was fine earlier but now I can't even get my finger nail between the belt and the flange on the sprocket so want to be able to do those adjustments myself. I'll do it when I put everything back together. Hope it goes back together as easy as it came apart.
Thanks to Bob, Lamont and all those that post how to do things on this forum. It is very much appreciated.
Gary
jcthorne
Well-known member
Just came back here to thank finless and to say all is well, both tires changed out Friday and we went for an extended ride today. VERY happy with the Yokohama tire. Will take a while to see how it will wear but it simply cannot be any worse than the POS Kenda tires. Nice to have a name brand, Z speed rated, made in USA tire on my bike. Each of them took less than 1oz to balance. Shows good quality control in manufacture.
finless
New member
Gary, sounds like your doing fine buddy....
FYI the axel is 100 ft lbs torque! There are some mistakes in other documentation about it being any higher than that!
That's what my service manual says so you know.
The brake Caliper bolts are 35 lbs. Same with holding the disk on to the hub!
Blue locktite is fine! That is what I used!
For putting the caliper back on and getting it on the disk. No worries mate! Just take your time, spread the pads, and it will slide on the same way it came off.... Trust me!
PM me if you need some help buddy and I will give you my phone number!
Bob
FYI the axel is 100 ft lbs torque! There are some mistakes in other documentation about it being any higher than that!
That's what my service manual says so you know.
The brake Caliper bolts are 35 lbs. Same with holding the disk on to the hub!
Blue locktite is fine! That is what I used!
For putting the caliper back on and getting it on the disk. No worries mate! Just take your time, spread the pads, and it will slide on the same way it came off.... Trust me!
PM me if you need some help buddy and I will give you my phone number!
Bob
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finless
New member
JC, I think this tire "IS" the "keeper" and the best car tire replacement right now.
While I wanted the Michelin Hydroedge because I love Michelin tires, they do not make that anymore. The replacement Defender IS NOT a good tire for the Spyder due to it's offset tread.
Anyway, I rode all week to work and hit speeds of up to 80 MPH on Ca. freeways without ANY balancing! FREAKIN WONDERFUL!
So you and I are now some of the few that are using this tire. Let's keep folks up to date on how it goes.... :2thumbs:
By the way, I AM NOT the person that came up with this alternative tire! It was recommended to me by Spyder Lover User: spyderyderjim
In this post here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?74404-Tire-hell-sorry
So I cannot take ANY credit for this tire choice...
spyderyderjim
THANK you for this wonderful recommendation! Loving it buddy! I hope you see this post as I thank you.... :cheers:
Bob
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danotech
New member
What did you find your belt tension was? Did you use a kricket? I'm still trying to get the belt alignment taking correct. Thought I had it right but riding over on the left edge. I need to tweak it a but mite. Finding small adjustments are the key.
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Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
randyandsandy74
New member
Thank you Bob for your video it really helped with the loose adjusters!
jcthorne
Well-known member
finless
New member
Yes I used the KirKit II to check the tension. It did not change for me and is at about 170 lbs.
Small alignment adjustments wont change the belt tension enough to see it on the KirKit II. At least I did not.
Remember I have a 2011 RTS and I believe the 13's and up they run it higher to help eliminate belt vibes.
Just a video (not by me) that shows how to adjust. Again make sure your end caps are not loose when you tighten the axle.
Bob
cognaccruiser
New member
Bob, thanks for the torque numbers and the encouragement. Sure it will all go back together but if any questions, I'll post.
Cheers, Gary
Cheers, Gary
rays hell
Member
video
Thanks for the video Bob, I can NOT believe my dealer charges $260.00 to do that same thing. Still shaking my head.:shocked:
Maybe they're trying to pay for the tire changing machine.
I opted for a different tire though. I chose a Nitto 205/55/15 and comes with a 45,000 tread wear warranty.
Thanks for the video Bob, I can NOT believe my dealer charges $260.00 to do that same thing. Still shaking my head.:shocked:
Maybe they're trying to pay for the tire changing machine.
I opted for a different tire though. I chose a Nitto 205/55/15 and comes with a 45,000 tread wear warranty.
Andy Cserny
New member
tire change video
Hi finless,
great video, thanks for taking the time and effort to do this, a great help for us newbies to the Spyder World. I did not see the size of your tire, probably my oversight. I did note that you didnt like the Michelin with the assymetrical tread pattern, unfortunately I had already bought that tire and will report on the 1330 forum on how it does , that is if it doesnt kill me.
Andy
Hi finless,
great video, thanks for taking the time and effort to do this, a great help for us newbies to the Spyder World. I did not see the size of your tire, probably my oversight. I did note that you didnt like the Michelin with the assymetrical tread pattern, unfortunately I had already bought that tire and will report on the 1330 forum on how it does , that is if it doesnt kill me.
Andy
Highwayman2013
New member
It won't kill you, I have it on for over 9,000 miles.
retirednick
New member
Yokohama
I am very late responding to the thread but I wanted to thank Bob for the Video and I only wish that the dealer here would charge $260 for a tire change. Here in sunny (today) Alberta it's over $800 and that of course is with the OEM put back on. Somwhere there is a new tire making it's way across the country so I should be on the road within a week.
I am very late responding to the thread but I wanted to thank Bob for the Video and I only wish that the dealer here would charge $260 for a tire change. Here in sunny (today) Alberta it's over $800 and that of course is with the OEM put back on. Somwhere there is a new tire making it's way across the country so I should be on the road within a week.
finless
New member
$800! :yikes:
That is highway robbery!!!!
So are you going to do it yourself?
If so, try it with modifications others suggested.
1) When you take the tire to a car place to get the tire on the rim, see if they can do it without removing the hub from the rim (you will still need to pull off the belt pulley). If they can, this will save time! If I was to do it again I would try it. Removing and replacing the hub doubled the time and effort. BUT with that said, taking the hub off does allow you to inspect all your bearings not just the outer ones.
Now should you need bearings, there are many posts about this! So study them. I am glad my bearing were good but if they were not, I was ready to do that job and had ordered this stuff:
293200094 Seal. Model-RT STD 2 required
293300124 O-Ring $4.99
293350067 Ball Bearing $9.99 2 required
293350065 Double Row Bearing. Model-RT STD $26.99
2) Instead of removing the bottom shock bolt, just jack the rear up higher to be able to get the tire out from under the bumper / mud flap.
However, I am pretty sure to do it this way you have to turn the belt adjusters to get the belt off. As some have said, mark them and count the turns out you made to loosen the belt adjustment. With that said however, I would still just drop the bottom shock bolt as for me this seemed to work well for me with no issues.
Good luck!
Bob
mstella101
Member
Having a problem
Just ordered the kuhmo- really wanted the yokohama but I could not find anyone dealer or another shop to install it- I was told because it was a 205 not 225 that there would be problems. This bums me out since yoko is my first choice but it sounds like I won't be dissapointed with Kuhmo. I just know with 7500 miles on my '13 St-S I don't want to put on another Kenda( to steal a line from Seinfeld) 'Not that theres anything wrong with that!'. BTW The Service Mgr. said it would be about a 1 1/2 hour job.
Just ordered the kuhmo- really wanted the yokohama but I could not find anyone dealer or another shop to install it- I was told because it was a 205 not 225 that there would be problems. This bums me out since yoko is my first choice but it sounds like I won't be dissapointed with Kuhmo. I just know with 7500 miles on my '13 St-S I don't want to put on another Kenda( to steal a line from Seinfeld) 'Not that theres anything wrong with that!'. BTW The Service Mgr. said it would be about a 1 1/2 hour job.
jcthorne
Well-known member
To heck with the NOMINAL size numbers. the ACTUAL width of the Yokohama is less than 3/16 of an inch difference and its EXACTLY the same diameter, better dry and wet traction, better speed and load rating and just all around a much better tire. If you dealer really is trying to steer you to the Kuhmo, they don't know or care much about tires. At least the dealers that push the OEM Kenda are just following the company line no matter if it makes sense to the customer or not.
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