jcthorne
Well-known member
The Toyo R888 is better for traction. MUCH better but it will not last much more than about 8k even on a car.
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Replacing the rear tire on your Spyder - Video
- Thread starter finless
- Start date
The Toyo R888 is better for traction. MUCH better but it will not last much more than about 8k even on a car.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Well if your Kuhmo was not having traction problems, you were not using enough throttle. They are pretty poor on an RT, downright awful on an F3 which is pretty traction limited with the soft stock Kenda.
To balance or not to balance
I have an F3 and
I'm going to order this tire as well. Does it need the weights removed and dyna beads added or just remove the weights and add the beads later if needed. I Was quoted 139 for arachnid and 130 for installation at a dealer and that's just not going to happen!
I have an F3 and
I'm going to order this tire as well. Does it need the weights removed and dyna beads added or just remove the weights and add the beads later if needed. I Was quoted 139 for arachnid and 130 for installation at a dealer and that's just not going to happen!
jcthorne
Well-known member
We recommend not using the dyna beads. Balance the tire/wheel before putting it on the bike.
The centramatic balancers work well too as long as the tire balance is close. Our experience has shown that with the Yoko tire, if you line up the yellow dot with the valve stem, they balance with VERY little to no weights and well within the capabilities of the centramatics. This is NOT true of the Kendas.
The centramatic balancers work well too as long as the tire balance is close. Our experience has shown that with the Yoko tire, if you line up the yellow dot with the valve stem, they balance with VERY little to no weights and well within the capabilities of the centramatics. This is NOT true of the Kendas.
Sarge707
Active member
Well I have had the Kumho on my RT for 1,000 miles now and I like it . I accelerate Hard (Many times Hitting 60 in 2nd gear) But I Do Not Burn rubber for No reason. Shows No real wear yet and at 28 PSI it s still quite warm to the touch when I stop. It seemed to balance very well when the tire shop mounted it with the red dot at the valve stem. I Only ride on Dry -Rain Free- Days.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
"We recommend not using the dyna beads."
Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
What did I miss?
Why is that JC? My tire shop was unable to balance the my wheel with their machines (I don't know what they have) so I suggested Dyna Beads and so far I think they have worked well. I am running a MasterCraft tire on the rear. It is now going into it's Third summer
What did I miss?
BoilerAnimal
New member
No Tupperware removal necessary. Your brake will be different because it's a Brembo and is not bolted in place but has a nub that locates the front of the assembly and the axle does the rest, IIRC. Super easy! Just take your time and use your phone to take pictures for reference when reassembly, if you want.
Last edited:
jcthorne
Well-known member
We have had several tires destroyed by clumping dyna beads. Also they do not balance until you are up at highway speed and personally I hate the wobble getting there. Its much better to balance the tire/wheel properly before installing. It only takes a few minutes to do the job right. Yes, a motorcycle wheel takes different equipment or adaptors to balance than a car wheel.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Hitch will have to come off first.
Place the jack under the rear most portion of the frame. Do not jack under the shock mounting bolt.
BoilerAnimal
New member
The axle nut on my 2013 is a 36 mm. Can't speak about the 2014 or newer models.
Peteoz
Well-known member
Paul,
........not directly related to the Dyna beads, but re the tyre shop not being able to balance.......when I ordered my front and rear tyres from my tyre shop, they suggested I book in at the bike shop on the way home as they could easily do the balance on their equipment. Sure it cost a few bucks, but it was a solution if you want your tyres balanced the normal way and the tyre shop doesn't have the right equipment.
p.s. I didn't do that as the tyre shop said that with the Kuhmos I was buying, they would be very well balanced as long as they were aligned to the valve......plus, I had just ordered Lamont's Balancers.
Pete
jcthorne
Well-known member
The 19mm one is the trailer hitch bolt that goes through the hollow axle. You will have a 36mm behind the hitch when you get it off.
So, on my 2014 the procedure s/b exactly as shown?
pegasus1300
Well-known member
No bike shop here I would trust to put air in a tire let alone balance it. Dyna beads are working fine, I have also used them in my previous 2wheelers with no incident. I don't feel any wobble getting up to speed. Thanks for the warning tho. I do know the shop was very careful to mount my tire with the proper orientation to the valve stem.
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Thanks Pete but no reliable bike shop in less then 70 miles,so as much as I can I do my own work.
BoilerAnimal
New member
The only difference is the way the brake is mounted. Very similar but instead of being bolted as the old style brakes are it will have a tang, or nub, that is located to position the front part of the brake caliper assembly. You will have to locate the brake on the tang and line up the hole for the axle to slide thru. Not hard, just take your time and take pictures if you want a reference for something before you take it apart.
If you need extra room to slide the wheel in place, you can take the brake pads out and use needle-nose pliers to screw the brake piston in to give you more room.
I also found it easier to back off the alignment bolts for the rear axle by four FULL turns before putting the drive belt on. I match marked the bolts before loosening them and you MUST make the same number of turns on each bolt! DISCLAIMER: YOU RUN THE RISK OF CHANGING THE ALIGNMENT OF YOUR BELT IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY! I did it and nothing changed.
If you need extra room to slide the wheel in place, you can take the brake pads out and use needle-nose pliers to screw the brake piston in to give you more room.
I also found it easier to back off the alignment bolts for the rear axle by four FULL turns before putting the drive belt on. I match marked the bolts before loosening them and you MUST make the same number of turns on each bolt! DISCLAIMER: YOU RUN THE RISK OF CHANGING THE ALIGNMENT OF YOUR BELT IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY! I did it and nothing changed.
BoilerAnimal
New member
Get some PB Blaster penetrating oil. Works the best of any I've tried.
BoilerAnimal
New member
I think I jacked mine up before loosening the lower bolt on the shock, then adjusted the jack height to slide the bolt out.
Last edited:
pegasus1300
Well-known member
Pete you did release the shock height linkage 1st right? If so then you can jack up the rear end to take pressure off the shock bolt and to get you some room to swing.
Similar threads
