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replacing spark plugs

pierrelogic

New member
I'm well over 10 G's on the OEM spark plugs because well, the Spyder is running just fine. That and I'm a huge fan of if I don't think it's broke don't fix it. That thinking has served me well with the Spyder so far.

I've seen other swap them out as early as a couple thousand miles...but no one has suggested a high end number before replacing the OEM's. I've got the Iridiums just waiting to be slapped in but everything is running so smooth. Can I do any damage if I don't change OEM plugs until either the Spyder starts choking or around 12,000 miles is that going to be an issue?
 
I changed my first plugs at over 26K and put in the iridiums. The OEM were barely worn. Could have probably gone another 20K.
I am also a believer in if it ain't broke, don't "fix" it.
 
OK I'll play. How labor intensive is replacing the spark plugs?

The first time you change them, you'll wish you waited till you really needed to do it. Air box has to come out,
6 hard to get at screws to remove the bottom of the air box, [and put back] And be careful puling the boots off the plugs, they damage easy. Oh year a couple of panels have to come off first. That said if you have a few hours and a lot of patience you can do it.
 
I have never pulled the airbox just to change plugs. Just need an extension and an elbow for your ratchet. IMHO.
 
Any tips or methods or told to use to safely getting the spark plug boots off?
I take a large flat head screwdriver under the lip of the boot while lifting around the boot with my fingers, do both slowly and gently, then when replacing put a little silicone grease on the plug insulator. I've never damaged a plug wire this way.
 
I have never pulled the airbox just to change plugs. Just need an extension and an elbow for your ratchet. IMHO.

The shop manual outlines exactly this method, indeed, no airbox removal required just a universal ratchet extension / elbow.


I take a large flat head screwdriver under the lip of the boot while lifting around the boot with my fingers, do both slowly and gently, then when replacing put a little silicone grease on the plug insulator. I've never damaged a plug wire this way.
Thank you!:thumbup:
 
I take a large flat head screwdriver under the lip of the boot while lifting around the boot with my fingers, do both slowly and gently, then when replacing put a little silicone grease on the plug insulator. I've never damaged a plug wire this way.
Unfortunately the way the plugs are recessed into the cyl. you wont be able to get a screwdriver or fingers in to help lift around the plug cap and without removing the airbox you will spend more time trying to get the plug out then just removing the box.Just take your time and be careful when pulling the plug cap, is about all you can do.The back cyl. is a breeze the front is a lot more time consuming but not a big deal.
 
That's easy for you RS owners to say...LOL! :roflblack:
Yes, I'm sure it is much easier in the RS and yes the air box has to come off to do what I suggested but I have no problems getting a long screwdriver and my fingers on the boots and gently prying the boots off and I'm not a small man. Of course it helps to have no air box as I have the Kewlmetal intake. Life is so much easier without that darn coffin on top.
 
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