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Replacing Battery

MRH

MRH

Active member
It looks like I accidentally drained my battery, and charging it using an external charger isn't working very well.

I'm going to try a jump with my car and see if the alternator fully charges it, but if I've damaged the battery I'm wondering if I need a Spyder mechanic to replace it, or if I can just take it to a local shop and have the work done. I've got a 2014 RT-S, so the battery is easily accessed from the frunk.

I've got a two week trip ahead of me, so I'd rather spend a few more dollars and be safe instead of sorry.
 
Also, is this something I can do myself? I looked on YouTube for a video, but there isn't anything on the 2014's forward (probably because the battery is very accessible).

Thoughts on what battery to buy, or what specs to look for are also appreciated. I'd rather spend more and get a better battery.
 
No problem...

Your one of the lucky ones in that they moved the battery to a much more accessable place on yours. I would think you do not have to replace your battery but need to charge it with a charger and not a maintainer which will not charge it. Jumping it will get you started and a nice long ryde will charge it up but don't shut her down unless you have a mimi jump battery or a plug in volt meter to see where the battery is at. :thumbup:
 
Most modern battery chargers will not charge a battery that is less than 10V. That maybe why it won't charge. Put booster cables on it along with the charger for a couple minutes. That should get things going. Set the charger to motorcycle mode or max 2 amps whatever option you have. Let it charge for a day. It will likely be fine. But if you're unsure. Take it out and take it to a place that sell batteries. They should load test it for free. But it has to be charged first. If it fails the load test get a new one and put that in. If it barely passes, normally 10V min is a pass, but if it's only 10.2 or 10.3 get a new one.
 
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If it were me, I would just call up Berts Mega Mall and see if they have the original replacement in stock. I replaced mine after 4+ years and the new one is working great after 2+. I have a battery tender hooked up to mine, that the dealership hooked up so it is easy to plug in under seat on my 2010RT

Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
 
I jumped it with a car, drove about 40 mins, and it started ok afterward. I've got it charging now and expect that the maintainer should top it off and that it will still hold a good charge.

I'll check to make sure we're getting over 10.3 volts after 24 hours off (and replace it if we aren't).

Thank you to everybody for your help!
 
MRH said:
I jumped it with a car, drove about 40 mins, and it started ok afterward. I've got it charging now and expect that the maintainer should top it off and that it will still hold a good charge.

I'll check to make sure we're getting over 10.3 volts after 24 hours off (and replace it if we aren't).

Thank you to everybody for your help!
Click to expand...

Just to be clear. A minimum of 10.3v during load test of 150 amp draw for 10 seconds. A static voltage test after the battery has had time to rest should be 12.6V or higher.
 
billybovine said:
Just to be clear. A minimum of 10.3v during load test of 150 amp draw for 10 seconds. A static voltage test after the battery has had time to rest should be 12.6V or higher.
Click to expand...

Thank you - I'm sure my local car mechanic will understand that.
 
If you are going on your trip without making sure your battery is 100% you may want to at least look into getting a Micro Start Anti Gravity Battery or something similar for jump starting your battery. They are very small and can fit anywhere.
 
MRH said:
Thank you - I'm sure my local car mechanic will understand that.
Click to expand...

I found that I owned a battery tester and it gave me about 12.35 - 12.45 volts over about 15 seconds after it has been resting a while. The test repeated a few minutes later with the same results. This was in the "Battery Load Test" mode at 12 volts.

The bike starts up just fine.

Thoughts?

CORRECTION: 12.45 Volts with a fair amount of consistency - I forgot there was a small device plugged in to the battery. This test was done with the battery on the Spyder, and the Spyder completely off.
 
Last edited:
Commander said:
If you are going on your trip without making sure your battery is 100% you may want to at least look into getting a Micro Start Anti Gravity Battery or something similar for jump starting your battery. They are very small and can fit anywhere.
Click to expand...

I have no idea which one to select. Smaller is better for the trip, and less expensive is always a plus.
 
The Micro-Start Sport is about the smallest, I have one and have jumped a friends :spyder2: who left his radio on and completely drained his battery. I have also heard that they are capable of jumping a V8 truck. My son has a Jeep, he had a dead battery and his wife's car was not able to jump his Jeep but my Micro Start was able to jump it.
 
I think I'll just feel better with a new battery, and am going to have my local car mechanic do the work. Is there anything he/I should know. It doesn't seem there is a memory issue taking out the battery, and it all feels very straightforward to change.
 
One more question on all of this:

If I buy my own battery, which one would be a great, long term choice.
 

Get the one the manual recommends or check with the local Spyder dealer. Asking a question like that will

gather at least a hundred different answers on here.

Jack
 
jaherbst said:

Get the one the manual recommends or check with the local Spyder dealer. Asking a question like that will

gather at least a hundred different answers on here.

Jack
Click to expand...

I was hoping for a number of answers, so that isn't a bad thing for me. I'd like to go higher end than the BRP battery.
 
Get another Yuasa just like is in it now. Used by most powersport vehicle manufacturers. They are good batteries that will last 5 or 6 years in a Spyder at a reasonable price. Since it appears you wish to change out your battery before it is bad. You may as well get a cheaper Chinese one.
 
MRH said:
I was hoping for a number of answers, so that isn't a bad thing for me. I'd like to go higher end than the BRP battery.
Click to expand...

The biggest factor in the longevity of a battery is the preparation of the battery before it goes on the bike and the starter button is pushed. Even a battery that is sold as being factory prepped should be charged before being installed just to make sure that you have a good charge. If the battery comes with an acid pack, it is extremely critical that it be prepped according to the instructions. Failure to do so will result in shorter battery life.
 
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