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removing the switch panel covers...

Bob Denman

New member
Well I'm officially stumped! (Not that it takes a lot to manage that!)
I've been jabbing screwdrivers in and around the dang things in a futile attempt to tinker with the jumpers so that my "Hey stupid; your trunk is open" warning light will work. Along the sides I can't feel any obstructions, but when going in from the trailing edge, I seem to hit some resistance...
Any clues on how to pop these out and have enough left of them so that they can be replaced? Thanks!
 
I installed the factory fog light switch on my Base model and the blanks are in there pretty hard. It's a big square piece of platic and not just a smooth tooped shallow piece. I don't know how you would get the switch blank off without cracking something (I know I read here some people can do it), but looking at the lock-in mechanism, it's pretty robust. Taking the glove compartment off the bike and just turning it over (without unplugging the wires) isn't all that bad though. That's what I did when I installed the factory switch. The plastic that makes up the dash panel isn't really all that thick and prying on it maybe not a good idea.
 
:shocked: Being basically a lazy S.O.B., I was hoping to do this without removing all of the other unrelated Tupperware in order to get to the bottom of that panel... The last time I stripped the plastic, I took two days of reading, re-reading and re-re-reading rhe insturctions before I even dared to touch a tool... :yikes:
 
I did what Roger said, used two screwdrivers and popped it off with some force, moved the jumper and snapped it back down. It took all of five minutes. I wish I had taken some pictures of the cover before I put it make in, but since I have replaced it with the BRP fog lights. However, I will go down to the dealer and see if they still have the cover and take some pics for you so you can see the retaining points.
 
You know those little plastic childproof plugs one plugs into sockets to keep the rugrats from electrocuting themselves?

Think of one of those with 6 pins to plug into the socket.

2X3 :2thumbs:
 
Thanks! Now this is where I get befuddled... I had one screwdriver stuck under the trailing edge prying up the panel and I had another one stuck under the left side... I slid the second one up and down what I thought was the length of that little panel and didn't feel anything! :shocked: At this point I usually want to throw up... :gaah:
 
I have taken the plate off now...

I have taken the plate off the blank panel to locate the switch for the trunk/frunk warning, now the problem is that the switch is down in the bowels of the hole and I do not have enough room to pull it up to switch the settings. Anyone have any ideas on how to do this? It was never attached to the blank.
 
I have taken the plate off the blank panel to locate the switch for the trunk/frunk warning, now the problem is that the switch is down in the bowels of the hole and I do not have enough room to pull it up to switch the settings. Anyone have any ideas on how to do this? It was never attached to the blank.

Try lifting the adjacent cover and lift up the switch from there.
Might help if you have one of those little screw drivers one fixes the screws in eyeglasses. May be able to maneuver it under the switch to lift it up to where you can access the jumper.
 
BEAUTIFUL! :2thumbs: Thanks Steve! Now I can go digging this weekend in the bike's guts :shocked: since we're getting hammered by snow today... :cus:
 
AWESOME!

I wanted to say Thanks for the info on the switch for the open trunk light. Yes I finally got the pug in the correct spot and now it shows the open trunk lid! :2excited:. The place that I got the bike from had no idea what I was talking about. I am taking them the email I got from Jack and showing them where the problem is. They have another RT in their showroom and it does not have the correct setting either! SPYDERLOVERS ROCKSSSSSS!!!:clap::ohyea::yes:
 
...A wider blade and a different motion ought to do it! :D
If you take a look, you will see that there are two catches at each end. A wider blade might do it, but it may take two skinnier ones to loosen both latches on one end. Once the end latches are loose, it should be able to be carefully worked out.
 
I was trying two, but my co-ordination didn't seem to be up to the task... :cus: I'll try a wider blade to see if I can catch them both at once...:pray:
 
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