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Removing Seat Pan for Rebuild

captainryder

New member
Hello Everyone,

Well winter has finally set in and I'm going to get my seat rebuilt - Russel Day Long. Everything I've seen and hear on this site says this is what will be the best for me and my partner. We've ridden some 4500+ miles now on our SE5 with no problems, except dead butts after some 200+ mile jaunts. We've tried the beads, we got the gel pads.

QUESTION: We have to remove the seat pan, and sounds simple, but we have the BRP backrest plate on the back, (installed by dealer) and I can't figure how to get to the hinge (pin) bolt. I assume that this is the only thing I need to undo do besides the pneumatic lift arm. So any suggestions where to begin. Need some quick answers, because I got a ship date to Russell Day Long in about 7 days.:dontknow:
 
:2thumbs::2excited::congrats::yes: on the Russell!

To be able to pull the seat, first disconnect the hydraulic holder-upper-thingy - either by popping one end off the ball or by unscrewing the bolt at the other end. Then the seat will lift high enuf to be able to get at the bolts for the hinge. Re-install is reverse, but easier, as the end will just pop back on the ball. If you get the seat heat, pay attention to where the wire for the heat lays on reinstallation, as it is a bit tight under there.

You will LOVE the seat!!
 
I've got the hydraulic rod removed, but with the backrest, the seat does not lift high enough to get to the bolt that is the hinge.

Which brings me to another question... Will the new seat fit with the modified rear end the BRP backrest installed?
 
Seat Solutions

I too tried the gel pads and found that they did not work for me. the stock seat became a problem at 3k miles. I have back problems from a car wreck 20 years ago. I think the foam flattens out a 3k. I tired the airhawk cushion and have been pleased so far. I have put 3500 miles on it had it appears to work for me for now. Just a thought.
 
There are 3 bolts that hold the stationary part of the seat hinge to the frame. A box wrench (13 mm, if I remember) will take 'em out, then unplug the sensor in the seat, and it's off. My next mod will be 4 inch risers so I can stretch out a little, and use my backrest.

john
 
:2thumbs::2excited::congrats::yes: on the Russell!

To be able to pull the seat, first disconnect the hydraulic holder-upper-thingy - either by popping one end off the ball or by unscrewing the bolt at the other end. Then the seat will lift high enuf to be able to get at the bolts for the hinge. Re-install is reverse, but easier, as the end will just pop back on the ball. If you get the seat heat, pay attention to where the wire for the heat lays on reinstallation, as it is a bit tight under there.

You will LOVE the seat!!

I've got the hydraulic rod removed, but with the backrest, the seat does not lift high enough to get to the bolt that is the hinge.

Which brings me to another question... Will the new seat fit with the modified rear end the BRP backrest installed?


Once the hydraulic rod is loose from the seat, you unplug the passenger seat sensor and lift the seat up towards vertical to access the three bolts that hold the seat hinge plate to the Spyder. Unscrew those three bolts and the bracket and seat will come off, allowing you to remove the hinge bolt.

Heather from Russell seats said their seat upgrade should have no affect on how the seat works with the BRP passenger backrest. Being that the passenger seat is reshaped a little, as long as they don't try to make it extend farther back, beyond what the stock seat already is, there should be absolutely no issues with the Russell seat working with the BRP backrest.

Also, when we sent our seats to Russell, we unscrewed the passenger seat sensor and kept it here. Not sure if that might have been an issue by why take the chance of it getting damaged somehow since its only two screws holding it on the seatpan?
 
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Thanks to everyone, BJT, RETREAD, and all. I see what you are talking about. And it's a done deal as of today.

Hoping to get my seat about 1 inch higher, with the rebuild, but don't need anything expansive in the rear, except my wife says, make sure my
part is just as comfortable as your part!

:2thumbs:
 
If you got the Givi bags & top box the brackets have to be partially taken off to get the plastic tail piece off also.
 
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