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Removing rear wheel?

tim marks

New member
Any suggestion or shortcuts, I'm replacing rear tire and I've got to get the rear Shock repaired next. I don't have any complaints about my Spyder the shock is my first problem and I've got over 11000 since the end of Feb. If I could get some suggestions on removing this rear wheel it would be appreciated.
 
Any suggestion or shortcuts, I'm replacing rear tire and I've got to get the rear Shock repaired next. I don't have any complaints about my Spyder the shock is my first problem and I've got over 11000 since the end of Feb. If I could get some suggestions on removing this rear wheel it would be appreciated.


Simple stuff... Don't use what the manual says--- Lamont posted an easier way out here quite some time ago..

Just pulled mine off last night--- took 10 minutes.

Remove the rear brake unit-- two bolts hold it on.. you should be able to tell which two.. or check the service manual.

Remove the exhaust side axle nut.

Remove the lower bolt that holds the rear shock on.
Jack up the Spyder from the frame in the center.

The swingarm will drop really low releasing the tension on the belt. Slide belt off... pull axle out ---remove wheel.

It's really that simple--- and when you put it all back together--- your belt tension should remain the same as before.

I'm replacing my rear bearings right now.....

remove the lower bolt that holds the rear shock in
 
Simple stuff... Don't use what the manual says--- Lamont posted an easier way out here quite some time ago..

Just pulled mine off last night--- took 10 minutes.

Remove the rear brake unit-- two bolts hold it on.. you should be able to tell which two.. or check the service manual.

Remove the exhaust side axle nut.

Remove the lower bolt that holds the rear shock on.
Jack up the Spyder from the frame in the center.

The swingarm will drop really low releasing the tension on the belt. Slide belt off... pull axle out ---remove wheel.

It's really that simple--- and when you put it all back together--- your belt tension should remain the same as before.

I'm replacing my rear bearings right now.....

remove the lower bolt that holds the rear shock in
Good to know.:ani29:
 
Great info on the tire removal. I need to replace my back tire soon. My only concern is balancing it after I mount it. I work at an auto dealer and have access to an automotive style balancer. (Hunter 9700) I'm wondering if that will work or if the shaft on the balancer will be too big for the wheel.
 
Great info on the tire removal. I need to replace my back tire soon. My only concern is balancing it after I mount it. I work at an auto dealer and have access to an automotive style balancer. (Hunter 9700) I'm wondering if that will work or if the shaft on the balancer will be too big for the wheel.


Don't bother-- -just put Ride-On in the tire and forget about it--- Ride-On will take care of the balancing for you.....
 
Any suggestion or shortcuts, I'm replacing rear tire and I've got to get the rear Shock repaired next. I don't have any complaints about my Spyder the shock is my first problem and I've got over 11000 since the end of Feb. If I could get some suggestions on removing this rear wheel it would be appreciated.

I dont know if you are aware of this but you can get the shock off without removing the rear tire but hey if you got to remove the tire it will make it easier!
 
Just make sure when you go to tighten the rear axle bolt to pull back on the tire to seat the adjusters otherwise the tire will be crooked and/or the belt tension will be incorrect.
 
Rear shock absorber change...

Simple stuff... Don't use what the manual says--- Lamont posted an easier way out here quite some time ago..

Just pulled mine off last night--- took 10 minutes.

Remove the rear brake unit-- two bolts hold it on.. you should be able to tell which two.. or check the service manual.

Remove the exhaust side axle nut.

Remove the lower bolt that holds the rear shock on.
Jack up the Spyder from the frame in the center.

The swingarm will drop really low releasing the tension on the belt. Slide belt off... pull axle out ---remove wheel.

It's really that simple--- and when you put it all back together--- your belt tension should remain the same as before.

I'm replacing my rear bearings right now.....

remove the lower bolt that holds the rear shock in

Would you recommend this approach to access the top of the rear shock absorber on an RT, or is there yet an easier way?
 
Last edited:
All,

We've done this and it really is a brilliant way of avoiding paying the dealership a lot of money. The worst part of it is getting the belt back on straight afterwards. For this I recommend following the procedure laid out in the shop manual. We did so and immediately left on a 2400 mile trip. We had no problems on said trip so clearly the procedure in the book is effective.

Good luck!
 
The worst part of it is getting the belt back on straight afterwards. For this I recommend following the procedure laid out in the shop manual.

Which procedure exactly - setting belt tension with the adjustment screws? Please clarify and if you have a pager number from the shop manual to pass along that would be great.

thanks.
 
Is this the same procedure for the RT?????

After reading the simple procedure and looking at the rear of my RT, I'm having trouble with visualization. I guess the left and right swing arm are independent and one will drop down allowing the wheel/tire to be removed? Sure wish I could see some pictures prior to trying this. Important to do this myself because the dealer wanted over $200 in laboe to change it.
 
After reading the simple procedure and looking at the rear of my RT, I'm having trouble with visualization. I guess the left and right swing arm are independent and one will drop down allowing the wheel/tire to be removed? Sure wish I could see some pictures prior to trying this. Important to do this myself because the dealer wanted over $200 in laboe to change it.
There is only one swingarm. Both sides will drop together.
 
Still confused

Scotty, That's the part that puzzles me. the procedure calls for removing only 1 axel nut on the muffler side. Guess I'll just try it.
Thanks
 
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